Archives for February 2010

EAR Inc. 3-1 System For Harley Riders

I’ve been wearing custom earplugs ever since I met the folks from EAR Inc. My first set was a pair of Insta-Molds made for me on the spot at the Sturgis rally. After getting molds made of my ears, I graduated to a pair of Chameleon Ears. From there I upgraded to Acoustic Filtered Chameleon Ears, which are designed to reduce louder sounds to a comfortable level while still allowing speech recognition.

Recently, I decided it might be nice to listen to some tunes if I wanted to. So I called up the folks at EAR and got one of its 3-1 Systems. This is, basically, the best parts of their Musicians Filtered Ear Plugs and OTS High-Definition sports monitors combined into a motorcycle-friendly, versatile earplug.

This product is a set of small, custom-fitted plugs that have snap ring receivers molded to their outside ends, giving me three options. I can choose to cap the ends with either a solid cap to block out all noise, or a filtered cap that provides 15dB of sound reduction across all frequencies. When I want to listen to some tunes, I uncap the earplugs and snap the two coiled, law enforcement-type sound tubes into to the end of each plug. These tubes lead to a transducer and a cable that ends in a standard 3.5mm plug, which allows me to hook into any music source with a jack. Not only do the 3-1s create a fantastic sound, they also come with a great little carry case so you don’t lose any parts.

Like all fitted earplugs, these take a little getting used to, especially when inserting and removing the plugs, as you have to push, pull, and turn at the same time. But it’s worth it because the 3-1 System really put me in my own little world. So if you ever motor up alongside me to say hello, and I don’t respond, it doesn’t necessarily mean I’m being rude. I may just be plugged in, enjoying my favorite tunes. Or not! AIM

–Joe Knezevic as published in American Iron Magazine, the world’s best selling Harley magazine.

SOURCE
EAR Inc.
800/525-2690
www.EarInc.com

Motorcycle Nightrider XiED For Harley

Got a 2007 or later O2 sensor-equipped bike? Is it running hot or pinging? A couple of these little gizmos may be all you need to fix the glitch. And all you need to install them yourself are some basic hand tools and a few wire-ties, no dyno time or downloads needed.

Each Xtreme in-Line Enrichment Device (XiED), of which you get two in a kit, is simply an electronic device that goes between the O2 sensor located in each exhaust header (you have two headers) and the bike’s wiring harness. Once installed, the XiED ($109.99) slightly alters the signal going back to the ECM from the O2 sensor. This altered signal tricks the ECM into changing the air/fuel ratio from the stock lean very setting of 14.5:1 to a slightly richer 13.8:1. (On our test bike the ratio was actually 13.7:1.) While this is not enough of a change to give any real power increases, this richer mix will help drop engine temperatures, eliminate some pinging, and slightly improve throttle response. However, this increase in fuel doesn’t occur throughout the entire rpm range of the engine. It’s only for the rpm range that the O2 sensors control, which is off-idle and most mid-range operation. It will not cure deceleration popping.

I’ll close with a couple of tips. Ask a friendly H-D mechanic to show you where the O2 sensors are located on your bike and how to disconnect the sensor wire from the harness. This will eliminate the hardest parts of the installation. And don’t worry if you get 131/151 trouble codes, which sometimes happens after the Nightrider is installed. AIM

–Chris Maida as published in American Iron Magazine, the world’s best selling Harley magazine.

SOURCE
S&P Mullen Enterprises Inc.
Oldsmar, FL 34677
727/420-0896
www.Nightrider.com

K&N HARLEY AIR CLEANER: 1-HR TECH

Everyone knows K&N makes air filter elements that pass more air than the stock H-D ones do, which means more horsepower. But did you know that it also makes great air cleaner housings?

Case in point is the made-in-the-US chrome beauty we bolt onto a rubber-mounted Sportster in the accompanying photos. Named simply the #RK-3929 ($339.95), this unit fits 2004-07 Sportsters, both 883s and 1200s. This oversized custom cleaner housing was designed to fit around one of K&N’s high-flow filter elements. The intended buyer is a Sportster owner who wants to increase air flow to his engine to reap additional power, which comes partly due to the increase in filter element surface area.

The #RK-3929 consists of a powdercoated, billet-aluminum backing plate, internal breathers, and a built-in, dyno-tuned velocity stack to smooth out the air stream as it enters the engine’s intake tract. Of course, a K&N high-flow washable and reusable “lifetime” filter is also in the box. That means, as with all K&N elements, the service interval between cleanings is much longer. However, there is no new outer cover, since this setup is designed to reuse the stock outer cover. The best part is that though we put the bike onto the dyno after installation, you don’t have to since no fuel setting modifications are necessary. This installation, which reaped 4 more horsepower, can truly be completely done in your own garage.

–Chris Maida as published in American Iron Magazine, the world’s best selling Harley magazine.

TOOLS NEEDED
• Torque wrench (in-lbs.)
• Ratchet
• Red Loctite
• Blue Loctite
• 5/16″ wrench
• 5/8″ wrench
• 5/32″ Allen
• 3/16″ Allen
• 14mm deep socket

SOURCES
K&N Engineering
1455 Citrus St., Dept. AIM
Riverside, CA 92507
951/826-4000
www.KNFilters.com

Marquee Customs & Classics
72 Siemon St., Dept. AIM
Bridgeport, CT 06605
203/332-1700

Rob’s Dyno Service
Dept. AIM
Gardener, MA 01440
978/895-0441
http:// www.RobsDyno.com

1 Our opening shot shows a 2007 1200 Sportster fitted with SE slip-on mufflers up on Mark’s lift. Its air cleaner and throttle body support are removed, so it’s ready to receive a new K&N assembly.

2 Mark starts the installation by slipping a K&N-supplied washer over each K&N breather bolt extension.

3 Mark uses a little red Loctite and a 5/8" wrench to screw a K&N breather bolt extension into each head. He then torques the extensions to the stock spec of 120-144 in-lbs.

4 Mark then secures the four K&N spacers (standoffs) in the K&N backing plate using a 5/16" wrench, a 5/32" Allen, and a little blue Loctite.

5  The rubber K&N internal velocity stack can now go on. Mark slips it inside the backing plate after making sure the notch in the stack lines up with the breather hole in the backing plate.

5 The rubber K&N internal velocity stack can now go on. Mark slips it inside the backing plate after making sure the notch in the stack lines up with the breather hole in the backing plate.

6 Mark then inserts the three K&N-supplied Allen bolts into the backing plate, alongside the velocity stack. Mark uses a 5/32" Allen to push each bolt through its tab on the velocity stack.

7 With the stock gasket on the back of the backing plate and over the three bolts he just put in, Mark attaches the plate onto the throttle body using a 5/32" Allen and some blue Loctite.

8 The stock breather bolts (minus O-rings) with the stock washer and a little blue Loctite, go into the K&N breather bolt extensions. Mark uses a 14mm deep socket to torque them to 120-144 in-lbs.

9 Mark can now position the filter element over the backing plate. As he does this, he makes sure the element is fully inside the plate’s outer lip.

10 The two spacer cushion assemblies are installed onto the filter, using the K&N-supplied hardware, some blue Loctite, and 5/32" Allen. These bolts, which also secure the filter element, get torqued to 40-60 in-lbs.

11 The stock outer cleaner cover and insert, minus the rubber gasket, gets reinstalled using the stock bolts, some blue Loctite, and a 3/16" Allen. He torques the bolts to 36-60 in-lbs. AIM

Helmet Accessories – How To Secure Your Motorcycle Helmet

Secure Your Motorcycle Lock Right!

If you’ve ever met me at an event, you may have noticed that I travel light. By that I mean no chains, pins, rings, etc. Heck, I don’t even like loose change in my pockets. With a mindset like that, the last thing I want to haul around with me is a helmet! But what do you do with the thing? Of course, if I’m riding a bagger that day, the lid goes under a lid. But since I’m usually on a sleek custom of some sort, I’m left with either carrying a helmet around (not likely), or leaving it on the bike and hoping some idiot doesn’t walk off with it.

But not anymore thanks to the Helmet Secure! This little chrome gizmo ($59.99), which fits 7/8″-, 1″-, and 1-1/4″-diameter handlebars (just use the proper rubber insert), gets attached to bars via its clamp base and supplied Allen key. Once installed, this mounting system becomes inaccessible when the attached cable is locked into position. You run the loose end of this precoiled steel cable through the face or straps of your helmet. The cable then gets locked into the base of the Helmet Secure via the supplied key, of which you get two.

Now, if I can just find a way to get the ignition and locks to all work on the same key, I can get rid of all this metal in my back pocket! AIM

–Chris Maida as published in American Iron Magazine, the world’s best selling Harley magazine.

SOURCE
Helmet Secure
2130 Fillmore St.
#183, Dept. AIM
San Francisco, CA 94115
415/674-8900
www.HelmetSecure.com

American Motorcycle Girls 1900 to 1950 Book Review

The American Motorcycle Girls 1900 to 1950: A Photographic History of Early Women Motorcyclists is a book I’m excited about because it’s a professional presentation of a topic I’m passionate about: women riders. Actually, the book is not simply about any women riders, but the ones who paved the way during the first 50 years of the 20th century.

This 240-page coffee-table book is loaded with nearly 400 incredible vintage photographs of just about every woman who rode a motorcycle during the first half of the last century. Author Cristine Sommer Simmons spent two years scouring museums and personal collections to create the most comprehensive book on the subject of women riders from the early days. She’s also been collecting photos for 30 years. Ever heard of Nellie Jo Gill or Easter Walters? These, and the stories of hundreds of other women, most of whom are not showcased in any motorcycle museum, are chronicled with photos in this beautiful and informative book. I marvel at the clear, close-up images of these female pioneers who rode when riding was tough. The thing is, they didn’t know it was tough. All they knew were dirt roads with potholes and motorcycles that were not as technologically sound as modern bikes. They didn’t have good maps, and they didn’t have the high-tech gear and riding apparel we have today. But these women fell in love with the feeling that motorcycling gave them, despite societal limitations of the day.

The American Motorcycle Girls 1900 to 1950: A Photographic History of Early Women Motorcyclists is a glowing tribute to the women who opened the doors to cycling and paved the way for countless female riders who followed in their tire tracks. It’s priced at $50, and is well worth it! AIM

–Genevieve Schmitt as published in American Iron Magazine, the world’s best selling Harley magazine.

SOURCE
Parker House Publishing
651/314-7449
www.TheAmericanMotorcycleGirls.com

Harley Magazine Tested Dyna Street Bob

2010 Harley Dyna Glide

In a moment of clarity that can only come from consuming adult beverages while breathing the thin air of Denver, I realized that over the years I’ve had the good fortune of riding every member of the Dyna family except the Street Bob. With that revelation fresh in my mind, I decided to remedy the situation by racking up as many miles as I could on this model while attending Harley’s 2010 model launch in the Mile High City.

Street Bobs burst onto the scene in 2005 as a 2006 model, and American Iron celebrated that event with world-exclusive coverage in our September 2005 issue. The bike went on to become surprisingly popular and sold relatively well for a Dyna. Then for the 2009 model year Willie G. and his posse refreshed the bike by giving it a styling update. Fast-forward to the 2010 version you see here, which I finally got to spend some time flogging around Denver and the surrounding mountain roads.

Riding The Harley Dyna Street Bob

It’s no secret that the Dyna line is my favorite family of bikes currently in production by the Motor Company. I would describe this Dyna as Harley’s attempt to mass-produce a pure minimalist, post-war-style bobber. In other words, a modern interpretation of the classic, stripped-down bike that American GIs created after coming home from World War II.

Distinct features that make the Street Bob stand out from its Dyna siblings include mini-apehanger handlebars, a chopped rear fender, and a retro taillight. The mini-apes seem like they may have been sourced straight from the last generation of Wide Glides, but they’re internally wired for a nice clean look. If the LED taillight wasn’t so bright I would swear it had been lifted directly off an old Crocker. Compared to the first incarnation, the rear fender of this year’s Street Bob is heavily chopped and void of support covers. The combination gives the rear end of this bike a distinctly classic bobber look and feel.

Like all Dynas, the TC 96 in the Street Bob is rubber-mounted giving the bike a smooth, comfortable ride. The six-speed Cruise Drive transmission has gotten an upgrade for 2010 and now boasts a helical-cut fifth gear which is much quieter. This change is across the board for all Big Twins and a welcome upgrade for this journalist, since I only shift into sixth gear when I am doing well above the speed limit.

This bike and the newly redesigned 2010 Wide Glide share a laden seat height of 25.5″ which is the lowest in the Dyna family. A solo seat and mid-controls make the Street Bob easy to ride even for the shortest folks, like our fearless editor Chris Maida. The 19″ front and 17″ rear, steel-laced wheels have gloss black rims and roll on 160mm rear/100mm front Michelin Scorcher 31 tires. To the best of my knowledge, this is the first time since the early ’80s that Harleys are rolling out of the factory with tires other than Dunlops. A 29-degree fork angle makes this bike’s handling quick and nimble even on mountain roads.

Like its Super Glide siblings, the Street Bob features a combination neck/ignition lock conveniently located just forward and to the right of the 4.7 gallon Fat Bob fuel tank, which is now adorned with two new-for-2010 medallions. Also new this year is the all-black finished powertrain, which, by the way, is my favorite look for Harleys. The battery cover and belt guard are also finished in wrinkle black and complete the dark, minimalist profile a bobber should have. The tank console is full-length and features a silver-faced speedometer with a functional fuel range readout.

While spending two days riding the Street Bob, I came to some simple conclusions. First, the mini-apes put my hands in almost the perfect position for comfort, but not necessarily for steering on tight, technical roads. Next, the low solo seat and mid-controls were plenty comfortable for me on short stints, but after extended time in the saddle I found my 6′ 2″ frame got cramped, especially in the hip area. If I were to own this bike, both these issues could easily be remedied with new bars, a different seat, and maybe even forward controls. I also found that the front single-disc brake setup works well on this bike since it doesn’t overpower the front wheel under hard braking. Straight-cut, chrome, staggered, shorty dual exhaust pipes look like they belong on the Street Bob, while the low-profile front fender has a cool, custom look.

Like all Dynas this model delivers great handling and bold styling for a reasonable price. You could park a Vivid Black Street Bob in your garage for the MSRP of $12,999 or choose from four different colors like the Black Ice Denim you see here for $13,374.

Now that I’ve finally ridden the Dyna Street Bob, I’m happy to say that my fondness for the Dyna family has only been strengthened. And that is not the adult beverages or the thin air talking. AIM

–Joe Knezevic as published in American Iron Magazine, the world’s best selling Harley magazine.

Harley Ramble Motorcycle Boots

Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Boots

When I picked up street riding this summer, I knew I needed a boot that was designed for the kind of riding that I wanted to do. Flipping through the Harley-Davidson Footwear catalog, I stopped on the Ramble. It’s a conservatively styled boot, so my gear wouldn’t speak louder than my minimal street-riding skills. But the Ramble was certainly an upgrade from my old, muddy brown work boots.

Forget about so-called break-in time. As soon as I got these babies, I went on an eight-hour ride. I walked and rode in my boots from 7am to 5pm, and I could have even slept in them, they were so comfortable! Right out of the box, the over-the-ankle Ramble boots delivered the performance that I needed in an arena that doesn’t lend itself to many second chances. I could feel the shift lever almost as well as if I’d been riding barefoot. After eight hours of riding on a hot August day, my feet were the only part of me that weren’t sweating. I even wore the same socks the next day. Just kidding, but I probably could have gotten away with it. While taking these Ramble boots off for the first time, I almost started untying the laces, when I remembered that they had a full-length zipper running down the inside, which I unzipped as easy as my fly.

Wolverine, the maker of H-D footwear, rates the Ramble as “best” in abrasion resistance and oil resistance, and rates it at “good” for slip resistance. Thankfully, I haven’t yet tested out the abrasion resistance, but, after eight hours worth of city shifting, there’s barely a scuff mark or scratch. In terms of slip resistance, well, when I put my feet down at a stop, the soles held their ground. I’ve got countless miles of riding left in me, and I have no doubt that these boots are going to be around for a good many of them. AIM

–Tyler Greenblatt as published in American Iron Magazine, the world’s best selling Harley magazine.

SOURCE
Harley-Davidson Footwear
866/699-7379
www.Harley-DavidsonFootwear.com

Motorcycle Review Pitbull

Testing The Big Dog Motorcycle

Back in 1998, I tested the then-new Pitbull from Big Dog. That machine was a bare-bones bike, sporting the only hardtail in Big Dog’s lineup. I loved it! I also froze my butt off riding it around Connecticut since it was late February. I rode this 2010 Pitbull at the same time of the year, but, being 11 years older and a little smarter, I did it in Florida during Bike Week. Much better!

Big Dog Motorcycle Pit Bull

Both the Pitbull and I have changed over the years, and, depending on your point of view, hopefully for the better. The newer version sports lots more in terms of creature comforts than its forefather. Where the earlier version was a basic street blaster, the new Pitbull is much more refined and comfortable. It’s also heavier and longer, having a total dry weight of 691 pounds and a total length of 8-1/2′ (101.8″). The evolution of the Pitbull reminds me of the changes the Ford Thunderbird went through from its birth in the late ’50s to a luxury car by the late ’60s.

Ready for some specs? The Pitbull is powered by a S&S/Big Dog proprietary 117″ (1916cc), fully-polished, Evo-style motor that you can get equipped with either a carb or EFI fuel delivery system. Since the shiny stuff is plentiful on this bike, a fully polished and chromed primary system and six-speed BDM Balance Drive setup is the only way to go. That powertrain spins a chrome billet aluminum rear wheel wrapped with an Avon 280/40-20″ rear tire. A matching front wheel, which is wrapped with an Avon 130/60-23″ front tire, is held in place by a chromed and polished 41mm front end. These large diameter wheels definitely give the Pitbull a different stance than the original version I rode back in the last century! Stopping power is via rotors that match their respective wheels and a set of polished, four-piston, differential-bore calipers.

As for my impressions of the bike, the first thing I noticed as I pulled from the curb was that the Pitbull is well-balanced. I could ride it without my hands on the bars by just shifting my body weight. However, as with ultra fat rear tire bikes, I had to scoot my butt to the leftac about 1/2″ to make it track straight with no hands. The bike is heavier than most rigids I’ve ridden, but I’m sure that’s due to all the billet-aluminum components. Also, you have to make your turns a little wide due to the bike’s long stance. And even though it’s a hardtail, it handled well on the highway. However, the front end was a little bouncy on uneven but decent pavement.

As for fit and finish, I fit the bike well and had no trouble reaching the forward controls with my short legs (29″ inseam). I was definitely flat-footed at a stop. The Pitbull’s components all fit it well, too. And Big Dog’s paint and finishes were excellent, as always.

In the Stop and Go departments, the brakes worked well and were correct for this weight bike. However, the rear brake made a groaning sound sometimes when I applied it. When I asked Big Dog about this they stated it could have been due to the Florida humidity. Another possibility is that since it was a new bike the rotor may not have been seeded properly.

My favorite part is the Go, and this S&S 117″ mill always fired right off; sometimes needing a little choke on a cool morning. It also had nice power output at all throttle positions. The pipes also were a good match for this engine and provided a nice rumble even though they were EPA-approved. Since the Pitbull is fitted with a BAKER proprietary primary system and six-speed transmission, tranny shifts were much smoother than a stock H-D tranny, as usual. The clutch’s action was nice and smooth with no surprises. Yes, smooth is the correct term for both the clutch and tranny. Even popping the bike into neutral was cake, but I did that as seldom as possible since the Pitbull was a helluva lot of fun to ride.

Maybe I can convince the powers that be at Big Dog to send another one up to me in Connecticut for “extended testing.” But let’s do it next spring. Winters in the Northeast have gotten worse in the last 11 years! AIM

–Chris Maida as published in American Iron Magazine, the world’s best selling Harley magazine.

SOURCES
Big Dog Motorcycles
316/219-6589
http://www.BigDogMotorcycles.com

2010 Harley-Davidson Fat Boy Lo Review

Dark Custom Harley Fat Boy Lo Motorcycle

If you’re torn between buying a Softail or one of H-D’s line of Dark Customs, stress no longer. The Motor Company has felt your pain and delivered a machine that fits the bill on both counts. And if you’re also a rider with leg length issues, like me (29″ inseam), you’re going to feel like you just won the Triple Crown!

The Fat Boy Lo, as you can see, is the newest model in Harley-Davidson’s Dark Custom series. Decked out in satin chrome, Denim Black, gloss black, and flat black, it has just the right amount of shine popping up here and there against the otherwise all-black machine. Black Denim paint is sprayed onto the frame, swingarm, front shock covers (cowbells), derby cover, horn cover, coil cover, oil tank, and air cleaner. Gloss black is on the triple trees, headlight nacelle, headlight bucket, rear fender supports, footboards, and air cleaner cover trim ring, just for contrast.

Flat black covers all the other blacked-out components, such as those over and under shotgun exhaust pipe header shields. The Lo also boasts a few other special treatments not given to the standard Fat Boy. It rolls on a set of Bullet Hole cast-aluminum 17″ wheels with blacked-out centers and machined outer edges. In keeping with the Fat Boy image, 140mm rubber wraps the front while a fat 200 takes care of the rear. Road contact was good in all kinds of weather, which is what I hit coming over the Rockies in Colorado, including heavy driving rain and hail. (I hate hail!) And let’s not forget the high winds that were thrown in for good measure! I had to work a bit to keep my place in my lane, since those solid wheels tend to act like sails if a strong gust gets a hold on them. But don’t get the wrong impression: I loved riding the Fat Boy Lo; I just didn’t like some of the weather I had to ride in. (Guess you could chalk that up to earning my pay for the day.)

Harley Fat Boy Motorcycle Logo

The 5-gallon Fat Bob tanks have a satin chrome and flat black console housing the speedo and ignition switch. The gap between the tanks just below the console is covered with a black leather insert, complete with H-D medallion, which finishes this awkward part of the cockpit nicely. To break up all that black, the handlebar is a fat 1-1/4″ stainless steel unit (with internal wiring), which is narrower than the standard Fat Boy bar. I liked where it put my hands, and had no trouble spending hours in the saddle.

So how does the Fat Boy Lo get to have the lowest seat height in the entire Harley-Davidson lineup? You can thank the 1.15″ lower front and rear suspension, resulting in a 24-1/4″ seat height. By the way, this seat is also narrower than the standard one, which gives you more leg to send down since less has to get around the edge of the seat. And though it’s not in any of the literature put out by H-D, I think the seat also places you a bit lower in relation to the rest of the bike. I based that on the fact that those slick, gloss black, half-moon floorboards kept my feet at a different angle than a standard Fat Boy board, which put my ankles at a slightly odd angle. Nothing major, to be sure, but it was something I noticed after 100 miles.

As for the go, turn, and stop characteristics, we’ll start with go, my favorite one. The Lo is, of course, powered by the same counterbalanced, fuel-injected Twin Cam 96 motor that resides in the rest of the Softail lineup. So I was not surprised when the crisp throttle response, smoothness, and power of my test bike matched what I’ve experienced in other Softies. Ditto for the six-speed Cruise Drive transmission and enclosed, oil-bath, chain-driven primary system. Shifts were good, although once the bike was at operating temperature finding neutral was a chore, which is something I’ve also experienced on a 2010 Road Glide. When stopped, I kept bouncing between first and second. Getting into neutral while still rolling was the way to go. Clutch action was smooth and predictable, so the neutral issue was not clutch related.

In the turn department, the Lo handles very nicely. I had no problem with it in all riding situations, such as slow parking-lot speeds, highway blasting, twisties (just remember you have floorboards!), and no hands on the highway. The Lo took it all with ease. (To keep the Lo tracking true during no-hands, I had to move my butt about 1″ to the right.)

Stop is via a single four-piston caliper up front and the same out back. These calipers and fixed rotors do their jobs well, since I could rein the Lo in at will.

I let a number of people sit on the bike while I had it and all liked the new, lower stance. This was especially true of women, who said the lower height made it easier to lift off the sidestand.

Bottom line: it looks like the Motor Company has another winner on its hands. I definitely didn’t want to give the Lo back! AIM

Chris Maida as published in American Iron Magazine, the world’s best selling Harley magazine.

$1,500 HOP-UP FOR HARLEY TWIN CAMS

The owner of this 2009 CVO 110″ wanted the same things as thousands of other Twin Cam owners, be they 88s, 96s, 103s, or 110s: a better exhaust note, smoother idle, no popping on deceleration, better off-the-line power, and, you guessed it, more power across the board, not only at a high rpm. That’s a reasonable request to be sure, but not one that many shops can deliver at a reasonable price. That’s why I called my buddy Andrew Rosa in nearby Huntington, New York. His Long Island shop, Rosa’s Cycle, has been cranking out smooth, dependable power from Harleys, be they Twin Cams, Evos, or Shovelheads, for almost 30 years.

Andrew’s plan is simple, and yet involved. The simple part is to get more air in and out of the engine, which is why he likes to bolt on a SE Stage II air cleaner, Rinehart exhaust, and a H-D Screamin’ Eagle Race Tuner (SERT). The involved part comes after this package is installed: that’s when Andrew’s years of dyno experience come into play. Others with less experience will spend many hours trying to get the idle smoothed out, the bad dip in power off idle corrected, and a respectable power increase out of these basic upgrades. Andrew, however, gets it all out the door and running sweet for a reasonable number.

For this upgrade we decided to use the newest addition to the H-D lineup, a 2009 Road Glide from nearby (to Rosa) Lighthouse Harley-Davidson. We went with a CVO 110″ because these engines seem to have a chronic idle problem and a bad dip in power at lower rpm. In their favor, they come equipped with a SE Stage II air cleaner and a high-flowing dual header system from the factory. That means all Andrew had to do was bolt up a set of sweet-sounding Rinehart slip-on mufflers (available from Drag Specialties), connect a H-D Super Tuner SERT, and work a bit of his magic in the dyno room. The accompanying dyno chart tells the tale.

–Chris Maida as published in American Iron Magazine, the world’s best selling Harley magazine.

TOOLS NEEDED
• 9/16″ socket
• 1/2″ socket

SOURCES
Drag Specialties
See your local Drag dealer
608/758-1111
www.DragSpecialties.com

Lighthouse Harley-Davidson
670 E. Jericho Turnpike
Dept. AIM
Huntington Station, NY 11746
631/427-0382
www.LighthouseHD.com

Rinehart Racing
www.RinehartRacing.com

Rosa’s Cycle Shop
540 New York Ave.
Huntington, NY 11743
631/424-4955
www.RosasCycle.com

1 Our opening shot shows the saddlebags removed from our stone stock CVO 110 Road Glide, which is on Andrew’s dyno, all warmed up and ready for some power runs.

2 Andrew uses a 9/16" deep socket to loosen the clamp that holds the stock muffler to the rear cylinder header pipe. Save the clamp and all the stock hardware. Do the same on the other muffler.

3 A 1/2" socket is needed to release the rear of the muffler from the stock support, which is part of the saddlebag bracket. Again, save all the stock hardware and do this to the other muffler.

4 After he puts the stock muffler clamp onto the front of the new Rinehart muffler, Andrew slips it into position on the rear cylinder header pipe and loosely secures it with the stock hardware.

5 The clamp gets tightened to H-D spec first, followed by the rear hardware. If you have a gap between muffler and bracket, don’t pull it closed with the bolts. Shim the gap closed with washers. By the way, ours lined up perfectly.

6 After he installs the front muffler in the same way, Andrew plugs in the H-D Super Tuner SERT to the stock data link plug on the bike.

7 Then it’s time to fire up the dyno and dial in the engine. This is where experience comes in. If you don’t know what you’re doing here, the cost of the installation goes through the ceiling.

8 Swapping out both mufflers takes all of about an hour, including reinstalling the bags and side cover, and wiping down the bike. Here’s how the Rineharts look from the back. Nice! AIM