American Iron Magazine & Greenwich Concours Bike Show

Have you ever been to a Concours d’Elegance? American Iron Magazine and Greenwich Concours is working together to promote show quality motorcycles in a high-profile manner at this year’s event.

The annual event will be held June 3 & 4, 2017 in Greenwich, CT. Saturday will be focused on American vehicles (Harley, Indian, Excelsior, Pope, Yale, Crocker, etc), and Sunday is imports.

1938 Indian Four Motorcycle

American Iron Magazine is partnering up to present three classes each day: Pre-War motorcycles, Post-War motorcycles, and Competition motorcycles. This is a great opportunity to share the field with some world class collector cars and show how amazing our motorcycles are too.

If you have a Concours quality (original, restored or race) motorcycle and/or sidecar you think would fit in, please go to…/2017-vehicle-submission/ and send in your submission.

H-D Oil Temp Gauge Install (Intro)

2005 Electra Glide Harley Oil Temp Gauge Install

Our 2005 Electra Glide is up on our mechanic Chris’ lift with a drain pan under the tranny and the seat removed. The battery ground cable has also been disconnected.

By Chris Maida

Swap out that air temperature gauge for a much more useful oil temperature gauge!

H-D Oil Temp Gauge Install preview

Using a 5/8” socket and 5/16 Allen, Chris removes the engine oil drain plug (right hole) and oil pan plug (left hole) from the engine oil pan under the tranny.

If you own a twin cam touring model with a fairing, you have the not-so-useful air temperature gauge that comes standard with the gauge package. But do you really need a gauge to tell you it’s 100 freakin’ degrees out? A much better use of that gauge spot is an oil temperature gauge. This setup gives you valuable info during your ride on how your engine is operating, especially on very hot days. This upgrade is not hard to install and can be easily done right in your own garage, not taking more than half a Saturday to complete. In fact, you should do it at the same time you’re changing the engine oil and filter, since you’ll be draining the oil anyway to install the kit’s temperature probe.

Electra Glide engine oil drain plug Harley Oil Temp Gauge Install

Here is the engine oil drain plug (bottom) with its magnetic tip to catch any ferrous metal slivers from the oil. The top must be removed to install the oil gauge sensor.

Since we’re going to install our kit onto a 2005 Electra Glide, we went with a black-face 2″ diameter oil temperature gauge (#70900283/$149.95), which is styled to match the original equipment gauges on our Electra Glide. This gauge kit, which is also available with a silver or titanium face gauge to match other models, fits 1999-2013 FLHT, FLHTC, FLHTCU, FLHX, FLTR, and Trike models. However, it doesn’t fit 2009 and later CVO models. The kit includes the gauge, wiring harness, and all needed hardware. Check out the accompanying photos and captions to see just what it takes to install this very useful gauge. AIM

Harley Oil Temp Gauge swap out for air temperature gauge

Chris uses an 11/16” wrench to install the supplied oil gauge sensor/brass bushing into the oil pan. Tighten the bushing, not the sensor, until it’s snug in the pan. This as a tapered busing, so don’t kill it!


Bayside Harley-Davidson

Harley-Davidson Motor Company

Like what you see? The full article with all the steps, tips, tricks, and tools needed is in American Iron Magazine issue # 343! To order a back issue of this or any other issue of American Iron Magazine, visit
Follow American Iron Magazine on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram!
To subscribe to the PRINT edition, click here. To receive DIGITAL DELIVERY, click here.
Harley Oil Temp Gauge Install (preview)

The new gauge goes into the inner fairing and into the gauge bracket just like the stock unit. Chris aligns the tab on the gauge with the notch in the fairing to properly position the gauge in the inner fairing.


AirFX USA Rear Air Suspension System Install (Intro)

AirFX Install on 2002 Electra Glide

Our 2002 Electra Glide is up on a bike jack and stripped down. However, for this install you only have to remove the seat, both rear shocks, both side covers, and the rear wheel and fender, as we’re going to mount the new AirFX air compressor under the battery box after disconnecting the battery.

By Chris Maida

Revamping the rear of a 2002 Electra Glide

In this part of our ongoing series on reworking a 2002 Electra Glide, we’re going to finish the AirFX front and rear air suspension system install we started two issues ago. In that article, we showed you how to bolt on a set of Air Ride cartridges. This time around we’ll be installing the rest of AirFX’s full bike kit, which consists of the rear shocks, air compressor, front and rear valve system, reservoir tank, micro-button package, and whatever lines, harnesses, etc. is needed to make the system complete.

Let’s start with the Magnum long stroke rear shocks (#FXA-2009-B-S/$900). The Magnums use a new shock technology that incorporates a double-sealed, 63mm, extra-large composite piston. This arrangement requires less air pressure and volume to operate, resulting in a consistently soft, smooth ride. The shock body uses an upper spherical bearing and lower stud kit that allow the shock body to pivot in all directions. This minimizes shock side-loading or pivot friction while increasing shock response when cornering. As for rebound, the rider can adjust this setting by adding or removing rebound air via the Schrader valve on each shock.

AirFX USA rear suspension install

After removing the bike’s batter and the bracket from the AirFX compressor, Tom positions the bracket in the center and front of the battery box and marks where he needs to drill four mounting 1/4″ holes.

The system’s compact compressor assembly (#FXA-2001/$160) is equipped with a thermal overload protector that will shut down the unit if it becomes overheated. Once cooled off, the compressor will automatically restart. This protects the compressor and ensures a long component service life. The compressor comes with an Omega-style mounting bracket and pre-installed insulated wiring.

AirFX USA air suspension compressor

The compressor is secured to the battery box using four 1/4″ X 3/4″ buttonhead bolts (not supplied) with a flat washer on top. Just a locknut is used under the compressor bracket.

We also installed AirFX’s Instant Up kit (#FXA-2012-2/$500), which comes with dual reservoirs, a compressor control box, pressure switch, and relay sub-control. The compressor control will automatically turn the compressor on at 170 psi and turn it off at 190 psi, so a supply of pressurized air is always at the ready whenever the ignition circuit is activated. A front control valve pair (#FXA-1015/$195) and rear control valve pair (#FXA-1014/$210) also come with the complete kit, as well as a micro-button package (#FXA-1010-MB/$200) that mounts on the handlebars, so the rider has easy access to the system’s controls.

AirFX USA shock connector to swingarm

Tom secures the bottom of the shock using an AirFX flat washer between the shock and swingarm and an AirFX flat washer and locknut on the outside.

So how does the bike’s owner like his new AirFX system? He loves it! In fact, two other owners who saw his bike had the same AirFX system installed on their new 2016 H-D Touring bikes. The accompanying photos and captions show you what was done to finish this installation.

AirFX USA rear suspension tank assembly secured

The tank assembly is secured to the right muffler support using the stock hardware, blue Loctite, and a 1/2″ socket.




Bullet Customs

Like what you see? The full article with all the steps, tips, tricks, and tools needed is in American Iron Magazine issue # 340! To order a back issue of this or any other issue of American Iron Magazine, visit
Follow American Iron Magazine on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram!
To subscribe to the PRINT edition, click here. To receive DIGITAL DELIVERY, click here.
AirFX two-button switch

After routing the switch harness up to the handlebars, the AirFX two-button switch is fastened to the stock front master cylinder mount clamp using a T-27 Torx.


2016 Harley XL1200CX Roadster Review

2016 Harley Roadster first ride

Gingerelli took the test bike on his favorite 50-mile loop, an assortment of cambered and off-cambered turns mixed with contorting S’s and sweepers, and it’s roads like that where the Roadster shined.

CX in the city, a roadster for the road  –  by Dain Gingerelli 

According to Harley-Davidson’s promotional literature the new XL1200CX Roadster is aimed dead-square at young riders, often termed Millennials. But tell that to the older guy — think Baby Boomer—who cast an envious eye on the Roadster, with its Velocity Red Sunglo paint shining brilliantly, which I had just fired up in the parking lot. And for the record, I’m of the Baby Boomer generation, too, and I rather enjoy this Sportster.

The older guy said nothing, though. He just stared, transfixed by the bike, soaking up the sum total of its parts and color. A chromed, low-slung handlebar catches the eye first, and behind it sits the familiar 3.3-gallon peanut-style gas tank; folks on Juneau Avenue now deem it a “walnut” tank, although if we’re going to break from tradition, I’m for calling it a “pecan” tank, even if it might send the wrong message as to its exact function and use.

So, there we were, standing in the parking lot with the older guy still wistfully gazing at the bike while I nonchalantly let the Roadster’s rubber-mounted 1200cc engine (Millennials and Baby Boomers alike would never refer to a Sportster engine in terms of cubic inches, although for the record the 1200 qualifies as a 74″) warm up, chugging and singing out the proverbial potato-potato-potato cadence that all Harleys are known for. I especially enjoy the XL1200CX’s exhaust note, a result of the new free-flowing shorty mufflers that create an unmistakable baritone burble, so unlike the wimpy, semi-flatulent sounds that resonate from most stock bikes today.

2016 XL1200CX Review

In his 2016 Roadster review Gingerelli said the suspension’s spring and damping calibration are well-matched to soak up bumps in the road better than any other Sportster.

Satisfied with the engine having oil in all its internal nooks and crannies, I sought first gear — an easy task, as Harley engineers have used every conceivable trick in their toolbox to minimize clutch lever pull effort on Sportsters, so when you snick the five-speed tranny’s shift lever up or down, your foot is rewarded with a positive click — and rode away. As the engine’s rpm rose to a crescendo, the exhaust note only got better, no doubt prompting the older guy’s pulse to quicken even more. I have no idea whether or not that Baby Boomer eventually bought a Roadster on account of that little episode, but The Motor Company is hedging its bets that Millennials will use similar sidewalk experiences to decide that it’s time to step up and make a purchase. The betting, too, is that the deal includes a new Roadster. As one Harley spokesman, Michael Spaeth, who heads the marketing team that put Millennials in the Roadster’s crosshairs, recently stated on a public radio broadcast: “…the new Roadster that we just launched [is] really targeting that kind of urban demographic.”

So, what sets this XL apart from all others in the Sportster stable? Plenty, really, even though the XL1200CX, rated at 549 pounds dry, shares the same basic platform in terms of frame and engine with the other 1200 models. Besides that drooping handlebar, you’ll see that the Roadster rides on all-new, blacked-out cast aluminum wheels wrapped with Dunlop/Harley-Davidson rubber, and this is the only Sportster rolling with an 18″ rear wheel and tire. The front 19″ wheel is supported by a 43mm inverted fork — the only one in the Sportster lineup — that has triple-rate springs calibrated to its Premium cartridge damping system. The rear shocks are based on this year’s new nitrogen gas-charged units for Sportsters, which have threaded collars to precisely adjust spring preload to suit your weight and riding style. Moreover, the fork and shocks offer a claimed 4.5″ and 3.2″ of travel, more than any of the suspenders found on the other Sporties.

The suspension’s spring and damping calibration are well-matched to soak up bumps in the road, too; clearly better than any other Sportster does. The Roadster’s suspenders are less prone to bottom out, too, and the ride transmits less road surface feedback through the custom-formed seat and rubber-wrapped folding footpegs.

Things aren’t quite as pleasant at the handlebar, though. Simply, the handlebar is too wide, measuring about 32″ from end to end, which forces you to assume a riding position that makes you feel as though you’re ready to do a pushup. Here’s my fix: by nature, any Harley’s purpose in life is to be modified, and by that right I’d change the bar to better suit my riding needs. There’s enough room to shorten the bar at both ends without disrupting space for the hand controls, so I’d clip about 1/2″-3/4″ from each end. That would slightly raise the angle of your torso in relation to the steering stem, improving the rider triangle in the process. Doing so would also relieve some pressure from your wrists and hands while pulling them in for a more definitive “feel” of the front end when cornering (think road racer ergonomics).

2016 Harley Roadster engine

The 2016 Harley Roadster features a rubber-mounted, air-cooled, 1200cc Evolution engine. Harley rates the Roadster’s engine torque at nearly 10% higher than the rest of the XL1200 lineup.

A by-product of clipping the handlebar also means a narrower bike, essential for splitting lanes or filtering forward through an urban jungle’s stop-and-go traffic. And from a cosmetic standpoint, shortening the handlebar would reduce its gull-wing effect in relation to the bike’s styling lines.

For the most part, though, there’s not much customization necessary to make the Roadster look cool. The fenders have been bobbed to the extreme, so they’re shorter than those on any other Sportster; the belt guard and muffler heat shields have racer-like slots for a sportier look; the taillights are integrated into the turn signals that are posted onto the bare-bones rear fender struts, and the license plate attaches to Harley’s signature Dark Customs left-side mounting system. Staring back at you is a 4″ electronic analog tachometer with built-in digital read-out speedo and gear indicator. All minimalist features that are popular with urban bikers.

And then there’s the seat. Positioned 30.9″ off the deck, it’s styled in the spirit of all café racers. The seat’s rear hump helps position you in the rider’s triangle, and you’ll notice a grab strap on the rear portion. That’s for a passenger (DOT law requires the strap), making this a two-up motorcycle. The upholstery is designed to mimic body armor that’s so popular among Millennials today, but, more to the point, the seat is so darn comfortable, yet slender enough for using body English when leaning left and right while cornering on your favorite back road.

For the full ride review, custom bike features, tech stories and more,
CLICK HERE American Iron Magazine issue 339

Also available in digital format CLICK HERE American Iron Digital

Water vs Oil Cooled Heads: Caption Correction for American Iron Magazine Issue 343

American Iron Issue #434 caption correction

We hate when things slip through the cracks. Here’s how the captions for water vs. oil cooled cylinder heads should have read. 

To err is human, to forgive divine – Alexander Pope

While each issue of American Iron Magazine goes through a rigorous editing process, sometimes things slip through the cracks unnoticed until after the fact. Such was the case with the captions on Donny Peterson’s well-written article about Harley’s new Milwaukee-Eight Engine.

The typo occurred on Page 32 in the caption about oil vs water cooled cylinder heads. The captions should be flipped as the water cooled cylinder head is featured in the first picture, oil cooled in the second. So we wanted to apologize to both Peterson and our readers for any confusion it may have caused. A correction is running in our next issue along with our online apology.

We are, after all, only human. Please forgive our errant ways. – AIM

American Iron News: “Bad Biker”Gun Targets Discontinued

Were motorcycle riders being portrayed as “bad bikers” worth shooting and possibly killing by police in training?

That is a question we at American Iron Magazine posed on line yesterday when we were shown Baker Targets “bad biker” targets for sale for gun training.

Baker Target's Bad Biker Target

Baker Target’s Bad Biker Target

In case you were wondering about the red dots they print on the targets, they are “high value” shots to cause maximum damage to the bike and rider (like the head shot or the front tire of the Harley-style motorcycle) when shooting.

Now we at American Iron Magazine realize a lot of motorcycle enthusiasts are also active in the shooting sports – including several on our staff. BUT we also know it is not considered good sportsmanship to use target that look like people in any more detail than a general silloutte.

What does it say when Baker Targets can sell these targets by stating “Bad Bikers need to be terminated! Here’s your chance, without actually hurting anyone.”

Besides, what message is this giving to the general polulation who do not ride. Not good.

We posted this on our web site and Facebook pages yesterday evening, and we are pleased to report the people at Baker Targets have responded by taking the targets off their site and discontinued offering them for sale.

Thanks to our friend Rogue for bringing this to our attention, and to the people at Baker Targets for resonding so quickly.

Toasted Buns: Corbin Heated Classic Solo Saddle Install (Intro)

Corbin Heated Solo Seat Install

To start, remove the stock seat with a Phillips screwdriver.

By Tricia Szulewski

I can already see your raised eyebrow and skeptical expression. I’ve already dodged the sarcastic comments from my co-worker when I unpacked the new Corbin heated classic black leather solo saddle (#HD-FXD-FB-8-S-E, $355.80) that I’d be installing on my Dyna Fat Bob. Like I told him, if you’ve never ridden a bike with a bun warmer, you have no idea how much it’ll warm you up on those really chilly days. It’s just like in the car—sometimes that direct seat heat is the only thing that really defrosts your bones when there’s a chill in the air.

I’ve always been a big fan of Corbin seats. They are typically a bit firmer than other aftermarket saddles, but they’re formed well with high-quality materials. Once you break them in, they offer a level of comfort comparable to no other stock seat. This particular saddle took just one ride to break in and feel like it was made for my butt.

Corbin Heated Saddle Install

Flip the Corbin seat over, insert the supplied key, turn it, and remove the bracket.

The solo saddle replaces the stock seat screw with hardware that makes the seat removable with just a key. This is a great security feature, and it creates a seamless look with no visible hardware on the fender. If I were committing to not carrying passengers, I’d fill in the fender hole where the original seat mounted. But I sometimes do ride two-up, so I ordered the touring pillion (#HD-FXD-FB-8-TP, $151.20). The pillion requires removal of the solo saddle and some hardware in order to mount it, but it only takes a few minutes. So going from solo to two-up is easy enough.

Adding the Ovalbac backrest (#02-SB, $152.60) to the solo seat seemed like a good idea for long rides. A flap in the leather seat reveals the mounting point that accepts any of Corbin’s backrests. Unfortunately, the Ovalbac was a little too far back for me, and even pivoting it forward just doesn’t work for my size. I could have ordered my seat in the “reduced reach” sizing, but besides the Ovalbac being too far back, the standard solo feels perfect.

Corbin Heated Solo Saddle Install

Find a place for the Corbin pigtail under the seat. Route the black wire toward the battery and the red wire toward the fuse box. Pull the battery out enough so you can get the black wire through.

The heat is turned on and off via a switch on the left side of the saddle that lights up when it’s on. Installation was pretty simple, and the wiring is all hidden underneath the seat. The wiring is well thought out, and there’s no splicing or dicing or forgetting to turn the seat off after a ride (it will only turn on when the switch is on). Now when I need to toast my buns, I can just go for a ride!

Corbin Heated Classic Solo Saddle Install

After turning on the bike’s ignition, flip the heater switch and it’ll light up. A toasty seat soon follows.





Like what you see? The full article with all the steps, tips, tricks, and tools needed is in American Iron Magazine issue # 342! To order a back issue of this or any other issue of American Iron Magazine, visit
Follow American Iron Magazine on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram!
To subscribe to the PRINT edition, click here. To receive DIGITAL DELIVERY, click here.
Corbin heated seat with Ovalbac backrest and touring pillion

The Dyna is ready for a long, cold ride now. The heat switch is easily reachable from the riding position., And the new keyed hardware offers more security with a tool-less seat removal.

Headwinds LED Bulb Install on Harley Road King (Intro)

Headwinds LED bulb install on 1999 Road King

Here’s our 1999 Road King in the driveway and ready to get a new Headwinds LED headlight. Be sure to put a towel over the front fender to protect it.

By Chris Maida / Photos by Elayne Maida

This simple headlight bulb swap will greatly increase your ability to see the road and any road hazards while riding at night

I love simple upgrades! being able to make a simple parts swap to fix a problem or weak area of performance on a bike is like taking a pill to get rid of a headache. It’s quick, easy, and makes my life more enjoyable. Upgrading from the stock halogen bulb on your Harley to one of Headwinds’ H4 LED headlight bulbs (#8-9030-H4/$99.95) is just that kind of upgrade and definitely worth the cash and time to make it happen. We did this upgrade on a 1999 Road King, and the change was dramatic. This LED setup boasts a low beam that’s much brighter than the stock high beam, with a wider field of light thanks to the LED’s 1,800 lumens compared to the halogen’s 1,100 lumens, yet the LED uses less power than the stock bulb.

Headwinds H4 Lamp install American Iron Magazine

Use a #1 Phillips screwdriver to remove the stock ring’s screws, and then remove the stock ring and set it aside for reinstallation later.

The Headwinds kit includes the LED bulb, driver, fan (keeps the bulb cool and improves performance and longevity), and three-prong connector. Installation is all plug-and-play. No wires to cut or splice. Just plug stuff together, stuff it into the headlight bucket, and hit the road. The accompanying photos and captions lay out the entire process from start to finish. We didn’t have to adjust our headlight after the install, but you should check yours just to be sure. You can see how to do that on the Headwinds web site or in the manual for your bike.

Harley headlamp rubber boot

Now pull the rubber boot from the back of the headlight to uncover the bulb-holding assembly.



Like what you see? The full article with all the steps, tips, tricks, and tools needed is in American Iron Magazine issue # 339! To order a back issue of this or any other issue of American Iron Magazine, visit
Follow American Iron Magazine on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram!
To subscribe to the PRINT edition, click here. To receive DIGITAL DELIVERY, click here.
Headwinds foam stick pad for LED driver

Headwinds supplies a foam stick pad to secure the LED driver to the headlight housing. We went with some wire-ties for our installation.


American Iron Salute: Heroes In Uniform

aisalute-coverAmerican Iron is proud to announce the release of a special edition publication dedicated to men and women in uniform. American Iron Salute: Heroes In Uniform is a tribute to those who serve our country as soldiers, police officers, and firefighters. American Iron Salute: Heroes In Uniform is available on newsstands today, and it features a variety of custom tribute motorcycles, in-depth stories on motorcycles’ deep connection to the military, the history behind Harley-Davidson and Indian in service, and product reviews from brands that proudly support our servicemen and women. AI Salute is also available via, and as an instant digital download: AI Salute Digital.

The American Iron family of publications is growing! American Iron Magazine is published 13 times per year. American Iron Garage, our all-tech magazine, is increasing to 6 issues per year and now offers subscriptions. And special editions like American Iron Salute are available as special interest motorcycle titles.

American Iron Salute (Print) or local Newsstand.

American Iron Salute (Digital) AI Salute Digital

1931 Harley V Model Bobber

American Iron Classic - 1931 H-D V Model

American Iron Classic – 1931 H-D V Model – American Iron Magazine Issue #340

By Jim Babchak / Photos by Buzz Kanter

The future of old bikes belongs to young bucks

There’s growing concern among today’s aging vintage motorcycle enthusiasts regarding the next generation of owners of old bikes. The circle of life has put the baby boomer generation next in line for that big flea market in the sky, and so the question many of those boomers ask today is: will the Millennial Generation (18-35-year-olds) step up to serve as stewards of the aging bikes that are, regardless of what generation we’re talking about, irreplaceable?

Time and again, I’ve walked the aisles and fields at our Antique Motorcycle Club of America (AMCA) meets only to observe that practically everyone I encounter joined the club during the late 1960s or the ’70s or ’80s, an outgrowth of his biker days marked by the maturing of tastes and aided by newfound disposable income. Consequently, there’s a generational cliff starting at about 1990 that we need to backfill and infuse with the love of old machines. We have to do a better job of getting more 20 somethings involved in the old bike scene or many of our most treasured machines will be exported overseas to fuel the growing demand for vintage Americana elsewhere in the world.

1931 Harley V Model American Iron Magazine Issue 340

This bobber project began with the basics: a stock 1931 frame with an I-beam front end, motor, and transmission. 

Thankfully, Buck (short for Buckley) Carson of Livingston, Texas, is one of the young guns in the club who, at 23 years old, is not only a vintage motorcycle enthusiast, but a leader in the field, making a difference with his energy and efforts among members of his generation. You see, Buck has a weekly Internet-based radio blog show called Classic Chrome on The Road Hawgs Radio Network. He’s heard by 98,000 listeners during his 7 p.m. (Central Standard Time) worldwide broadcast. Each show, he and guests explore topics like old motorcycles and the culture surrounding them, tech-related stories, book reviews, etc. Whatever strikes his fancy regarding the vintage bike scene.

His love for old machines is steeped in his family’s involvement in the sport. His grandfather and dad, Mike (a diehard trials and enduro competitor), were collectors and enthusiasts themselves, and they took Buck under their wings, tutoring him about old iron. First up was a cosmetic restoration of his granddad’s 1982 FLT about eight years ago. That experience fully baked the love for old bikes into Buck’s DNA. Currently, the Carsons’ combined private collection includes about 90 motorcycles, a mix of American, English, and European machines. The assemblage goes by the name Carson Classic Motors and is housed in a 3,600-sq-ft. steel building that’s been expanded many times. I suspect the business will continue to grow exponentially well into the future if Buck has final say in company matters.

1931 Harley V back fender

Cut down and clean, classic bobber style!

The 1931 V model featured here is part of the Carson collection and represents the classic bobber style. The bike came about after a conversation that Mike and Buck had with John Cullere, a noted VL expert and restorer with an extensive collection of VL parts. John had restored a VL for their mutual friend Scott Byrd, and the Carsons loved his work, commissioning him to build this VL bobber. They wanted it built to a 1930s-’40s bobber theme, to be period correct, and bulletproof in terms of ridability.

Read more about the restoration in American Iron Magazine Issue 340!

Also available in digital format CLICK HERE American Iron Digital

1931 Harley V Model - Carson Classic Motors

1931 Harley V model from the Carson Classic Motors collection