TECH: Rekluse EXP Auto-Clutch Install (Intro)

Rekluse Clutch Install

Our opening shot has our 2006 Road King up on a bike lift with its primary cover, shifter levers, front and rear left floorboards removed. A H-D oil drip pan is under the bike to catch the old primary fluid.

Captions by Chris Maida / Photos by Chelsea Maida

Breeze through traffic without pulling the clutch lever

I got to spend some riding time with aim ad sales representative Ken McCurdy at the 75th Sturgis rally this past summer. If you were there, or even read about it, you have an idea of the crowding that almost a million motorcyclists descending on a small town with three roads can cause.

So there we were, sitting in traffic on I-90, waiting to exit for Black Hills H-D along with thousands of others, with my clutch hand starting to get a little sore. So, I would shift my Limited test bike

Rekluse Clutch friction disks and EXP disk

The Rekluse clutch friction disks and EXP disk must soak in new primary oil for at least five minutes before installation.

into neutral for a few seconds, stretch my hand, kick back into gear, and move forward another few feet. That’s when I noticed Ken coolly and comfortably moving forward without even kicking the shifter or using the clutch. He would just give a little throttle as we duckwalked our bikes forward. His clutch must be broken, I thought, so I asked him about it. Turns out, he had recently equipped his 2006 Road King with a Rekluse EXP 3.0 clutch kit (#RMS-6203C/$799), which prevents engine stalling by using centrifugally driven technology.

The Rekluse EXP clutch system allows the user to take off and stop in gear without having to use the clutch lever, allowing for precision maneuvers at extremely low speeds while the rest of us are balancing clutch, throttle, and rear brake to get around a tight parking lot. The Rekluse kit comes with a whole new TorqDrive clutch pack that has a higher torque capacity than stock and can transfer power faster.

Besides the obvious difference, using a Rekluse EXP clutch is no different than regular clutching. You still pull the lever when changing gears, and shifting feels no different. The clutch can still be used at any time, too, so some situations where a clutch is needed (like rolling the bike backwards) can be done. As an added benefit, since the greatest wear on a clutch occurs in stop-and-go traffic, your clutch will run cooler and last longer. The cool part is that using the clutch is totally optional. You can if you want, don’t have to if you don’t.
As for Ken, he loves it!

Installing a Rekluse auto-clutch involves nothing more than changing out the clutch pack, and no modifications are required. Not that you’d want to, but you could swap your stock clutch back in at any time, like if you decide to sell your bike! The accompanying photos and captions show Editor Chris installing the Rekluse EXP clutch in just a few hours on Ken’s 2006 Road King. Next year, you can be the envy of just about everyone, except Ken, at Sturgis! AIM

Harley stock clutch friction plate removal

Pull all the stock and steel friction plates from the clutch housing. These will not be reused.





Like what you see? The full article with all steps, tips & tricks, and tools needed, is in American Iron Magazine issue # 334! To order a back issue of this or any other issue of American Iron Magazine, visit
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Rekluse Clutch review

Install the Rekluse spring ring with its tabs engage with the notches on the spring and its holes aligning with the holes in the clutch hub. We used the light lever spring ring since we have a stock motor.

Tech – Love Jugs Install (Intro)

Love Jugs

Love Jugs says its two-fan device will drop engine temperature of a Harley-Davidson by 100 degrees in four minutes. We put that claim to the test in our Love Jugs install and review.

Intro by Tyler Greenblatt/Photos by Chelsea Maida

The first time I heard of Love Jugs I thought it was the title of a porn movie. Okay, so maybe I shouldn’t have told you that. But what I should definitely tell you is that a set of Love Jugs fans provide extreme cooling power directly to your Harley’s combustion chamber and exhaust valve area. For this added charge of coolness, we installed the original Love Jugs Slots system (#SD-320/$399) on our 2006 Road King. Practically, we all know that increasing air flow over an air-cooled engine will lower its overall temperature. Your front cylinder runs hotter than the rear because it’s mostly getting the hot air flowing from the front cylinder. Of course, there’s no air flowing over the whole engine when you’re sitting in traffic on a hot day.

Love Jugs achieves its massive cooling potential by flowing 504 CFM of air from a pair of electric fans (252 each) directly to where it’s needed most, whether the engine is sitting at idle or out on the open highway. Love Jugs are available in a chrome or black powdercoat finish and are made entirely from aircraft-grade stainless steel. The outdoor-rated electric fans are entirely waterproof to the degree that they can actually run underwater. This may seem like overkill to the casual rider, but long-distance riders know how important weatherproof equipment is.

In addition to a cooler top end, Love Jugs, by default, also keeps a Harley’s oil much cooler as well. Cooler, more viscous oil leads to a longer-lasting engine and less wear and tear.

Several different Love Jugs designs are available, as well as vibration dampening options, and come with everything you need for the installation. All Love Jugs models will fit 98 percent of all Harley-Davidsons ever made as long as there’s a horn mount on the left side of the engine. Love Jugs makes some pretty hefty claims about its product, so we decided to do our own test, conducted by Editor Chris, as we reported in an earlier issue and have included in this article in an accompanying sidebar. If you’ve been looking for a way to improve the cooling of your Harley-Davidson, check out the step-by-step install to see exactly how to make that happen!

Love Jugs installation

Using a 1/2″ deep socket, remove the acorn not that holds the stock horn to the bike. Then pull the horn from its ribber vibration isolator.



Love Jugs

For phone contact, e-mail your number to


Like what you see? The full article with all the steps, tips, tricks, and tools needed is in American Iron Magazine issue # 334! To order a back issue of this or any other issue of American Iron Magazine, visit
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Love Jugs nameplate

We installed the chrome Love Jugs nameplate assembly to the stock horn bracket using some blue Loctite and a 1/2″ socket.


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We have bundled  5 back issues of American Iron Garage, a copy of American Iron’s Great Weekend Projects and a FREE copy of American Glory – 100 Years of Harley-Davidson collectors issue.

This would cost you over $50 to buy individually IF you could find them. We are selling them now for only $29.95.

Supplies are limited so act quickly.

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TECH: Progressive Suspension 944 Ultra Tour Shocks (Intro)

Progressive 944 Ultra Tour Install

Here’s our 2005 Electra Glide (sans saddlebags) on a bike jack with its rear section lifted just enough to take the bike’s weight off the rear shocks. We’ll show you how to do the left side, which is the same as the right except for the air line valve we’re going to remove.

Captions and photos by Chris Maida

Our 2005 Electra Glide had already received 1-inch lower than stock Progressive Suspension monotubes, so this go-round we’re installing 1-inch shorter rear shocks to keep the bike’s stance, and, therefore, its rake and trail, the same as stock.

We took our 2005 Electra Glide over to Bayside Harley-Davidson in Portsmouth, Virginia, to complete the full suspension makeover. It’s impossible to over stress the advantages of a performance suspension system, and it’s become one of the upgrades Harley owners do when the stock units are worn-out. In the case of our Electra Glide, one of the taller offerings from The Motor Company, many owners choose to lower it for improved confidence on the road and while stopped. In fact, this is such a popular change, H-D introduced Low versions of the Ultra Classic and the Limited.

For most of us, buying a new motorcycle for that reason isn’t exactly in the cards. But new front suspension and rear shocks probably are, and can definitely lead to a better-performing bike at the same time. And that’s exactly why we turned to Progressive Suspension, which offers kits for both the front and rear. We installed the 1-inch lower monotube cartridges last month, while this month, we’re going with a pair of Progressive’s 13-inch 944 Ultra Ultra-Touring shocks with heavy heavy-duty springs (#944-4020UT/$759). But wait, you might ask yourself, aren’t the stock shocks 13 inches? They are, but Progressive has designed the 944 to sit 1-inch lower than the stock air shocks while retaining the same amount of travel. The Progressive spring design gives the bike a 1-inch lower stance not only when loaded, but also when sitting on the sidestand and it uses the company’s Frequency Sensing Technology (FST) for a smooth ride. Progressive also has an Ultra-Low version of the 944, which is a 12-1/2-inch shock that sits at 11-inches.

With this front and rear suspension package, our Electra Glide sits just as it did when it came from the factory, without one end higher than the other. But now, it has the added advantage of a lower stance combined with a higher level of performance. As he did with the front, Service Technician Jesse Dietz at Bayside Harley-Davidson did the step-by-step install.

Progressive Ultra Tour 944 Install

Jesse secures the top of the new Progressive Suspension rear shock to the frame using a 3/4″ socket and blue Loctite. He leaves this bolt just snug for now.


Bayside Harley-Davidson

Progressive Suspension

Like what you see? The full article with all the steps, tips, tricks, and tools needed is in American Iron Magazine issue # 332! To order a back issue of this or any other issue of American Iron Magazine, visit
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American Iron Magazine 5 Simple Ways To Improve Your Harley, Indian or Victory Today

Yes, it is winter season and many of us can’t ride our Harley, Indian or Victory motorcycle until the weather improves. But that doesn’t mean we can’t spend some time with our motorcycles to make them better for now and for those spring rides.

Here are 5 simple things from the team at American Iron Magazine you can do today to your Harley, Indian or Victory motorcycle to make it better.

  1. CLEAN MACHINE Take an hour or two to carefully wash and wax your bike top to bottom and front to back. This includes all painted, plated and chrome surfaces.  Besides making the bike look better, you are removing baked on dirt and crud that holds moisture that could lead to rust.
  2. SAFETY CHECK Now that your motorcycle is clean, give it a safety check. Look for worn or loose items like tires, wiring and connections, suspension, final belt drive (or chain) and hardware. Now is a good time to fix or replace what is needed for a safe, dependable and fun ride.
  3. ERGONOMICS Put your bike on a stand or lift and sit on it as you would when riding. How are the ergonomics and feel of the bike when stationary? Do you like where your handlebars are or would you be more comfortable sliding them forward or backward a few inches? How about the clutch and brake levers – would they feel better up or down a little? How about your shifter – up or down for a better feel. Most of these adjustments are simple and can be done in a few minutes. Just be sure everything is tight and proper when finished.
  4. LEVELS Check your tire pressure and oil levels. If they are low now is a good time to top them off to factory spec. Sounds simple enough, and it is.
  5. BATTERY Maintain and charge your battery. If you have not ridden your motorcycle in a while, it’s a good idea to check it out. Check the acid level of the cells and top off with fresh distilled water if needed (Not necessary with a newer sealed battery) check and clean the terminals. Then hook up a smart battery charger to top off the charge. You’ll be glad you did in the spring.

This free advice is brought to you by American Iron Magazine, the world’s best selling American V-twin magazine.

Published 13 times a year (a new issue every 4 weeks), you can subscribe to American Iron Magazine in PRINT or in DIGITAL by clicking on the links.




TECH: S&S 107″ Cam & Cylinder Kit (Intro)

Our opening shot shows our 2012  Heritage Softail up on Kenny’s lift with the exhaust and top end removed. The gas tank is lifted, and the gearcase section is emptied, except for the oil pump. The pinion shaft runout has also been checked and is below the required 0.003" maximum

Our opening shot shows our 2012
Heritage Softail up on Kenny’s lift with the exhaust and top end removed. The gas tank is lifted, and the gearcase section is emptied, except for the oil pump. The pinion shaft runout has also been checked and is below the required 0.003″ maximum

Our Heritage gained 28 hp and 27 ft-lbs. of torque!

Captions and photos by Chris Maida

Harleys are built to cover some serious mileage. But even the most babied engine is going to need a top end rebuild at some point, although readers of this magazine probably don’t fall into that category. When it comes to the world of Harley-Davidson, anything you want to do has a bunch of different options. So when our high-mileage 2012 TC 103 Heritage Softail started hinting at a new top end, we examined a few of the options. The first, of course, is to rebuild it back to stock specs. Option B is to increase the engine’s displacement and throw in a hotter set of cams. Okay, so our only real options were how big and how hot.

Since the still-young Heritage sees lots of time out on the road, reliability and manners are just as important as power output. For that reason, we turned to the legendary S&S Cycle in Viola, Wisconsin, for a 107″ cylinder kit (#910-0479/$929.95) and its gear-driven HP103GE Easy Start camshafts (#330-0354/$824.95). The wrinkle black, 11-fin cylinder kit fits 2007 and later Big Twins. (No worries Twin-Cooled model owners! S&S has a kit for you, too.) The 3.937″-bore cylinders are the largest size that can fit in stock, unmodified engine cases. That means no machining is necessary, and you can achieve the maximum bore size with minimal effort. The S&S cylinders are also the same height as stock, which, again, makes this an easy install. The centrifugal-cast, gray iron liner and the included 4.937″, 4-3/8″ stroke CP pistons provide excellent wear and noise characteristics and performance. The fin area is increased for better cooling performance over stock cylinders. The cylinders are also available in a silver powdercoated finish, which also matches stock H-D engine finishes. The kit includes gaskets and piston rings, wristpins, and wristpin clips.

With the Heritage Softail’s new displacement, a set of performance cams is necessary to get the most out of the Beta motor. The HP103GE Easy Start camshaft is what S&S calls a “horsepower cam.” However, different intake and exhaust systems can turn the engine into more of a torque monster with a bit less top end. These are actually bolt-in cams, so no modifying of the cam compartment is necessary, a recurring theme with this S&S project. Since the heads and rocker boxes were off the bike when we installed the cams, there was no need to even order a set of pushrods; the stock ones slid right back into place! Of course, besides their high-performance profile, these are gear-driven cams. This means no more chain tensioners (great news for this high-mileage rider), but it also means a longer lifespan for the parts, and a more secure connection inside the engine’s bottom end.

For a tuner, we went with TechnoResearch’s Harley-Davidson (Delphi) 2 (#TR200053-M01-U/$638) tuner. We’ve worked with the TR quite a bit on a handful of different bikes, and it delivers flawless tuning every time. The USB port key allows for multiple reflashes on a single motor­cycle. Our choice for this build is a TechnoResearch DirectLink Flash Tuner. This module allows you to alter the fuel table, spark advance table, and other calibration table values. You can also get real-time fuel table and spark table cell tracing. The DirectLink (Flash-Tuner) communicates directly to the stock EFI module, so there’s no wiring changes or additional modules to install.

As reliable and easy to install as the S&S Cycle cylinder and cam kits are, they provide some majorly impressive numbers on the dyno. The 103″ Softail’s baseline runs yielded 68.9 hp and 87.6 ft-lbs. of torque. After tuning, the Twin Cam puts out 97 hp and 114.9 ft-lbs. of torque! That’s a 40 percent increase in horsepower and a 31 percent increase in torque. What’s really cool is that the same S&S kits also work on 96″ Twin Cams, delivering the same final output numbers. So if you’ve got a 96-incher, you can expect those percentages to be even higher, which makes your dollar-to-power ratio even higher as well!

When it comes to high-performance Harleys in the New York area, Rosa’s Cycle is the place to go. Andrew Rosa lent his skill and expertise to our S&S-equipped Heritage Softail, and the power numbers speak for themselves. Follow along as he takes us step by step in the accompanying photos and captions to see exactly how the experts do it. AIM



Rosa’s Cycle Shop

S&S Cycle Inc.

TechnoResearch Inc.

Like what you see? The full article with all 25 steps, dyno chart, Tips & Tricks, and tools needed, is in American Iron Magazine issue # 324, NOW ON NEWSSTANDS! To order a back issue of this or any other issue of American Iron Magazine, visit
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Big Sale on American Iron Garage Harley Tech Magazines

Do you love to do your own maintenance and tech on your Harley? Now on sale, you need to add these magazines to your reference library.

Big Sale on Harley Tech and Do-It-Yourself magazines. $52 value for only $29.95

Big Sale on Harley Tech and Do-It-Yourself magazines. $52 value for only $29.95

All 5 American Iron Garage issues and the one American Iron Weekend Projects for only $29.95 PLUS a free issue of American Glory: 100 Years of Harley-Davidson collector issue – a $52 VALUE.

For more information, or to order yours please click on Harley Tech Bundle Sale This is a limited time offer and will expire soon.

Harley News & Bargains! Cheap Deal On Harley Magazines & More

If you love Harleys you know what a great read American Iron Magazine is. Adding to your reference library can be slow and expensive. And single copies of American Iron Magazine can cost up to $10 each on ebay or on-line.

Amazing deal on American Iron Magazine back issues - #1 Harley magazine in the world on sale.

Amazing deal on American Iron Magazine back issues – #1 Harley magazine in the world on sale.

Published since 1989, the team at American Iron Magazine are offering a great deal. 20 assorted back issues for only $19.95 PLUS a free copy of American Glory – 100 Years of Harley-Davidson and a couple fo free stickers – a $130 value for only $19.95 plus actual shipping.

For more information or to order yours, please clip on American Iron Magazine Bargain Bag is also offering special deals on back issues of Motorcycle Bagger, mixed Harley-oriented magazines (including Hot XL, Thunder Alley and Hottest Custom Harleys) and more.

These offers can expire any time without notice when supplies sell out.

American Iron Garage: Quiz

Garage-winter-14Back Page

Class In Session

intro by Steven Wyman-Blackburn
questions by Staff

After reading this mag and obtaining a wealth of information on how to get your hands dirty with oil and grime, what’s the next logical step in the learning process? That’s right. Answer the DIY questions shown below. We created this quiz  as multiple choice questions whose answers will define you as a mechanic and, in turn, determine whether or not you possess the exclusively innate ability of capably wrenching your bike. Each question you see below is the result of hours, even days, of relentless study sessions, crafted from a vast array of ideas that have been consolidated into what is now a cluster of loaded, multifaceted questions of accumulated knowledge that we feel properly exemplify the art of the do-it-yourself project.
This completely legit grading system is based on a numerical scale of 10 possible points:

0-3 points: Put down the tools and step away from the bike!
4-6 points: Take this issue, flip back to page one and start reading. Heck, read through the first issue for good measure. Once you reach this page, take the test again. If you get a better score, great. Now get back in that garage and wrench!
7-9 points: Pat yourself on the back and go back in the garage. But you were already there anyway, right?
10 points: You scored better than our assistant editor. But that’s not saying much.

1. Your toolbox consists of

A. A 200-peice Craftsman mechanic’s toolset.
B. A couple of screwdrivers, wrenches, and a handful of leftover nuts and bolts from motorcycle projects.
C. What toolbox? I keep the hammer in a kitchen drawer.

2. The nickname “batwing” refers to

A. A popular fairing style, known for its use on the Street Glide.
B. My least favorite option. Long live the shark!
C. A DC comic book hero.

3. If your bike breaks down, you

A. Unwrap the toolkit from your saddlebag and start diagnosing the issue.
B. Start pushing to the nearest gas station.
C. Call roadside assistance.

4. Where is the motorcycle oil filter located?

A. On the engine somewhere.
B. On my workbench because I bought the wrong one.
C. On the shelf at the dealership because I’ve never changed the oil on my bike.

5. What is a “bored” engine?

A. An engine with larger than stock pistons.
B. An inattentive, listless engine that has no ambition.
C. An engine with longer-than-stock connecting rods.

6. A “snap ring” is

A. A wedding band that emasculates you when you wear it.
B. A small fastener that flies across the shop and disappears when you try to install it.
C. A metal ring that slips into a groove on a circular surface.

7. A “nut driver” is

A. What I encounter on my morning commute every day.
B. A hand tool that tightens or loosens hex fasteners.
C. A machine that harvests acorns.

8. Where is the kickstarter located?

A. On the right handlebar switch.
B. On the transmission.
C. On the Motorcycle Cannonball Endurance Run Coast to Coast ride.

9. Your garage is

A. Clean and organized with tools hanging on a pegboard: everything is in a specific place.
B. A “collection” of sorts. Rags, scraps of metal, wood blocks, screws, nails, and anything that might one day be useful.
C. The dealership across town. I have the phone number on speed dial #3.

10. A “magneto” is

A. A fancy word for engine; an alternative to power plant or powertrain.
B. An electrical generator that uses permanent magnets to produce periodic pulses of alternating current.
C. One of the most powerful and deadliest mutants from the Marvel universe.

For the answers, click here.


Taken from American Iron Garage Winter issue, purchase by clicking here.

The current issue of American Iron Garage is available on newsstands and digital delivery via Zinio.

AI Garage Install: Daymakers (Intro)

01 Opener_7633

The washers that come with the Daymaker headlight are only used with the Road Glide installation.

The washers that come with the Daymaker headlight are only used with the Road Glide installation.

Night And Day

Harley-Davidson Daymaker LEDs

text and photos by Tricia Szulewski

Dave Buerk isn’t just a fan of motorcycle safety; he’s actually a chief instructor for the Connecticut Rider Education Program (CONREP). To say that he does everything possible to make his ride a safe one is a monumental understatement. So when Harley came out with its vastly improved LED lighting for its Project RUSHMORE 2014 baggers, Daymaker, Dave read the reviews and promptly ordered a replacement headlight and fog lights for his 2009 Harley-Davidson FLHTCU Ultra Classic Electra Glide. Specifically, he purchased the Daymaker Reflector LED headlight (#67700173/$424.95) and Daymaker Reflector LED auxiliary lights (#68000075/$359.95).

Step 1: Dave removes the accessory chrome headlight trim ring with a Phillips screwdriver and puts it aside for reuse.

Step 1: Dave removes the accessory chrome headlight trim ring with a Phillips screwdriver and puts it aside for reuse.

Dave is an exceptional rider, admirable coach, and all-around good guy. But a handy wrench, he is not. That said, he tackled the installation of the Daymakers like a pro. Armed with only the few tools needed and a well-lit garage, Dave had the new plug-n-play lighting installed and running in about an hour and a half. And that includes time spent cleaning all the exposed nasty dirt when taking parts off the bike, pausing for pictures, and documenting each step.

The Daymaker LEDs imitate natural daylight by producing a bright-white color. Comparing them to the stock halogens, it’s a no brainer how much cleaner the light is. The headlight works by distributing two separate rays of light through two D-shaped lenses. The low beam shines light directly in front of the bike while the other projects a super-bright, focused high beam.

01 before-after

Before (left) with Daymakers (right)


To read the full 21 steps on how Dave Buerk installs Harley-Davidson Daymaker LEDs, the issue is on newsstands NOW!


For a digital delivery, click here.