Moulded vs unmoulded stator - Harley Forum

kempomark · #1 10-08-2009, 11:51 AM

Planning a preemptive strike should my bike need a new stator. What the heck is the difference in performance between a moulded and unmoulded stator? I've seen both advertized for my FLH. Do the voltage regulator and stator have to be matched (from the same manufacturer?)

Humble bow,

Kempo

frisco-rigid · #2 10-08-2009, 02:47 PM

Hi Kempo

There is No diff in the out-put tween Moulded & Un-Moulded..

The Un-Moulded is supposed to retain LESS heat,, that's the word anyway & it makes sense..
That's what I use just in case there's something to it, less heat = better..

The Moulded is supposed to protect against debris and oil comtamination etc. uh, that's the word anyway..
If a guy has that much debris in there, there's other probs he better work on..
The oil comtamination thing is bogus cuz the wire is all insulated and if there is No breach of the insulation due to careless installation = no probs..
Plus---- oil does Not conduct Juice..

I have used diff manuf'rs VR's with diff stators Many times, no probs---- a VR is a VR,,, kinda like,, salt is salt no matter which company you buy it from..
Just be sure the plugs match..

Do you think yours is going bad.?
The book describes how to check it with a Volt/Ohm-Meter, if you don't have the book I'll describe..

Have a ball

kempomark · #3 10-08-2009, 11:49 PM

Well, other than have the bike not wanting to start. But the battery in there was two years old. Anyway because of the ignition switch, I think it was draining the battery even when off. I've not had the seat off with it running to check the voltage going to the battery. However I have seen that the volt meter in the fairing not go past 10 volts or so. Either the meter in the fairing is bad (I don't think so) or it's not charging. So when I get it back (home) I will throw my handy dandy volt meter on it and see what it is doing. Even at highway speeds it didn't go much about 10-11.

So I figure it is one of three things. It could be the connecting plug between the VR and the Stator, it could be the startor by itself or it could be the VR by itself. That's where I think there is a problem. But first, I gotta get the ignition switch replaced so I get the bike up to speed and see what if any charge is going into the battery.

I do have the shop manual. But if you have a simplified way of checking the stator and VR, I would be glad to read it. You can send it to my email of kempo.markjest@gmail.com if you like and you have the time to do so.

Humble bow, and thanks...

Kempo

frisco-rigid · #4 10-09-2009, 03:32 AM

Hey Kempo

It should be in your mail now..

Don't hesitate to contact..

Trigger87 · #5 10-09-2009, 08:11 AM

Kempo, may I siggest you look into a 3 phase charging system? I upgraded my charging system on my 87 FLST with one by CompuFire. It does a much better job of keeping the battery charged up, especially in city riding. I used the 48 amp system, which was a huge upgrade to my old 22 amp system.