To locktite or not, that is the question... - Page 2 - Harley Forum

kempomark · #11 11-02-2009, 10:41 AM

I think I will:

Lock everything I can with mechanical means like lock washers and locking nuts
Make sure everything I can torque, retorque to spec
Safety wire something, I don't know, anything! Gotta use those pliers for something!
Use blue locktite where needed
Pray the rest stay on.

jimkelley · #12 11-02-2009, 09:39 PM

Hey Kempo I know you said you didn't want to hear that it's in the service manual, but that is a pretty good source of what needs thread locker or something stronger. In my limited experience using several different Harley Service books the assembly instructions pretty much tell you specifically when to apply loctite and even which version (blue, red, etc)to use. As one of the other posters mentioned, the red requires localized application of heat to break it loose. Your individual use might also vary in the instance of a custom application, or in the event you build a real asphalt ripper that suffers excessive shaking(i.e. big lumpy cams and such). Proper torque goes a long way too. I think one of the best investments you can make in the tool category is a good pair of torque wrenches, ft. lbs. and in. lbs. Being in aviation I'm sure you already knew that.

grampadac · #13 11-03-2009, 03:13 AM

Thanks for the info, very informative.

wrongpaw · #14 11-03-2009, 02:58 PM

Kinda strange, but the proper assembly for High Speed Expansion
turbine rotors to the impeller shaft (40KRPM) is to use never sieze
AND a drop of red locktite. This is used on expanders that liquify
air.

shovelmike · #15 11-03-2009, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigincher

There are safety wires on a Harley too. Ever seen 'em?

Yes, the bolts that attach the inner primary case to the engine case.

Big_Cheese · #16 11-03-2009, 06:23 PM

kempomark,

I am having a similar issue with my bike. I bought it used and thought I'd change the air filter under the S&S cover. WRONG!! I slightly damaged one of the screw heads trying to get the things to turn out. I cannot get any of the three screws to let go! I'm weighing my options and am seriously considering drilling out the screw heads. I gotta find the right replacements first though. I'd try applying heat, but am worried about doing collateral damage to something else on the bike.

Big_Cheese

kempomark · #17 11-03-2009, 10:25 PM

I have a Ness Big Sucker air cleaner with what appears to be an K&N filter underneath. My filter has three allen head (socket head) bolts holding the air filter onto the backing plate. Are these what you are talking about? Unless you are applying heat with a blow torch I am not sure what further trouble you can get into by heating the parts. If you are inclined to drill out the heads I would consider one of the stripped fastener removal tools. I got mine at Sears/Craftsman. Just use their specialized bit to drill out the head and then use the other end of the bit to remove the screws.

One of the things I learned about locktite applications is that general heat was ineffective. I have used a soldering iron applied directly to the bolt in question. That way no relative parts are heat damaged. I have also used a long bit of iron stock. I have held with vice grips on one end of the iron rod and placed the other end against or on top of the locked up fastener. Then I took a propane torch and heated up the iron rod. Of course the iron rod transfers the heat to the fastener making it easier to get out. Worst case: You can cut the heads off the screws with a die grinder. That will allow the filter to at least come off. Then you can unscrew the standoffs. Then clamp the standoffs in a vice and unscrew the cut off screws with vice grips. You gotta clamp those vice grips on to the cut off screws! You will probably only get one chance. At this point you could use heat again this time directly to the standoff and twist out the cut off screws. Again... I don't have an S&S but it appears to me to have the same mounting system.

If you MUST use a more general heat initially, I would make sure I have a squirt bottle (like a ketchup or mustard squeeze bottle) to cool relative parts. If it were me, I would get rid of the fuel source to the carb too if I HAD to heat the parts on the bike.

I was a project technician on the B1-B. These airplanes cost 242 million each. One learns to be a surgeon with fasteners. One slip with a drill or too much heat could cost thousands and thousands to fix and put the project behind. So, that's where I get my craziness from. Everything that can go wrong, will. I've attached a photo. That's me, middle row, third from right.

Thanks,

Kempo

jimkelley · #18 11-03-2009, 10:45 PM

Hey guys, Craftsman also has another damaged fastener tool available. They come in a set that has several different sizes. They resemble a socket on the outside but instead of six or twelve "corners" like a regular socket they have 4 or 5 sharp vanes that can grab onto the head of a damaged bolt or screw. I have used them on the small screws that secure the float bowl on Kiehin carbs and other carb parts. I sometimes use a small hammer to gently tap the tool onto the damaged screw or bolt then turn the tool with a wrench. Some of these tools have a shank small enough to fit into a 1/4" bit type screwdriver. I have found the tool invaluable on damaged philips head screws. These tools also eliminate the need to do any drilling on the screw or bolt prior to using the extractor. I am familiar with the extractors that Kempo mentioned, and they work well, too.

wideglidebill · #19 11-04-2009, 06:37 AM

sounds to me that whomever applied the locktite got way carried away and instead of just applying a small drop, soaked intire bolt in loctite. i find that it help to take dremel and cut grove to make impact screw driver useable on loctited screws and bolts

wideglidebill

Gas Man · #20 11-05-2009, 12:52 AM

Loctite...

Let me put it this way..

Only locktite the bolts you want to keep.