To locktite or not, that is the question... - Harley Forum

kempomark · #1 11-01-2009, 06:16 PM

Being a recent graduate from the "other" bikes to a Harley I have a question. And before anyone says, it's probably in the shop manual, this is a general question... It was not such a big deal with my other bikes but with my pride and joy FLHTC I am wondering if this is almost an requirement for it. My little girl recently said, daddy, that thing is like a paint shaker! I said, ya I know, ain't it great!

Other than the obvious things like spark plugs, exhaust hardware, etc, do most people out of habit and experience locktite every nut and bolt where there is metal to metal contact? I fly remote control helicopters and locktite is required. I made the mistake of putting blue locktite on my air cleaner housing bolt. Again this was the blue stuff. I had to take off the air cleaner for some reason and actually torqued the air cleaner blind nut out of the air cleaner trying to get it off. Literally, we had to take a die grinder to the bolt head just to get the air cleaner housing off. Didn't even nick my Ness Big Sucker! But I had to have the center of the air cleaner welded back into the air cleaner. (Thanks Bill Davis-Expert fabricator).

I worked on aircraft for a living and in the service. I don't cross-tread! This thing just glued itself like JB Weld! So I am now concerned that I will have to blow something off with nitro if I start locktiting everything I touch.

Thanks,

kempo

Bigincher · #2 11-01-2009, 07:35 PM

Personally, I am a little judicous in my use of Loctite. If there's a lockwasher or Nyloc nut, I will be more inclined to use NevRSeze instead of Loctite. I will use Blue Loctite if there is no other mechanical form of securing the fastener. I will ALWAYS use NevRSeze when dissimiliar metals are in contact with each other, such as steel bolts into aluminum. Especially on spark plugs and drain plugs.
I have 4 motorcycles, 2 pans, a shovel, and an Evo--- been doing this stuff for 35 years; my approach is the same for all of them.
But you may find that people have differing opinions on this....

kempomark · #3 11-01-2009, 08:22 PM

From aviation, everything has a lock washer, lock nut or safety wire. Mmmm I know I can buy hardware with safety wire holes! Thanks.

Bigincher · #4 11-01-2009, 08:42 PM

There are safety wires on a Harley too. Ever seen 'em?

old no. seven · #5 11-01-2009, 10:45 PM

Wouldn't that be a pretty picture, safety wire around the primary case fasteners! I've had pretty good luck with the blue loctite on fasteners I wouldn't care to loose on the road. My rule is anything without self locking feature gets a dab of blue. Also from the aviation community, ECS and ejection seats.

PeterV · #6 11-02-2009, 02:32 AM

Had a 91 Sporty. Had to locktite every nut and bolt on that paint shaker. Even then, the headlight bucket parted ways.....

Not so with the Glide.
Have learned that a couple o' good torque wrenches and a manual go a long ways keeping nuts and bolts where they belong. Nothing's loosened up on me yet!
I only use loctite when it's asked for.

grampadac · #7 11-02-2009, 03:39 AM

I got a stupid question. What's the difference between blue and red loctite?

Tbone · #8 11-02-2009, 08:50 AM

Safety wires were a pain in the butt. I'll stick with the blue loctite on the Harley. It was always a lot of fun trying to safety wire a gyroscope into the very top of the nose wheel well of an A-6 Intruder. NO, thank you.

Tbone · #9 11-02-2009, 08:51 AM

Blue loctite is easier to undo. Red loctite requires a bit more effort. The only place I've found red loctite required so far is the compensating sprocket bolt and the clutch pack nut inside the primary.

Bigincher · #10 11-02-2009, 09:55 AM

If you don't know what the different Loctite products are, go to their website and read up. RED is a stud and bearing mount, requires heat to remove. BLUE is a thread locker, like a glue. There's also GREEN and PURPLE.
Also, Permatex offers the same products.