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  #11  
Old 08-17-2008, 10:10 AM
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I had that happen to me after I went from the OEM Pads to a non-OEM pad. Don't know why they reacted like the did but soon after I went back to the OEM pads and the problems with wet braking never came back. Could be the newer pads weren't cured correctly and you just got a bad set. Or...your machine got used to what you had on previously and didn't like the change...Good luck with finding the solution. Clif
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  #12  
Old 08-17-2008, 12:44 PM
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I'm going to try another set of pads(not from the same vender) and see how it responds. The problem is I have to wait until it rains and honestly that is not how i would like to handle the situation. I have noticed when I wash the bike it does not seem to stop as aggressively but after a couple of blocks they are back to normal. When I do a cage I "Dress" the rotors if they require it. Should I do this with the bike? I didn't see the need since they are vented. I agree with Shovel concerning the front end locking up, I like the dry performance I have right now, I don't have to worry about the front end washing out even in a turn. I see these sport bikes doing "stoppies" and wonder what would happen during a panic stop. That seems like entirely to much braking power. Thanks for all of the suggestions.

Fat

Last edited by 1996Fatboy; 08-20-2008 at 08:39 PM. Reason: spelling sucks!
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  #13  
Old 08-19-2008, 12:40 AM
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Good to see you back Steel Rider. Could it be the pads were just wet. You all know if you ride in the rain it takes a bit for it to grab. Like when you drive out of the car wash and you brake at the first light and you dont stop like you normaly would. I pump em a few times before I have to stop to warm and dry em up a bit.
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  #14  
Old 08-19-2008, 11:36 AM
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The only time I ever had that problem is when I had the pads replaced by an indy mechanic. he used "race Pads" - no idea what they are but when they got wet I had no brakes. I took them off and look at them - they were as slick snot... I went back to OEM pads from the dealer and had no problems.
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  #15  
Old 08-19-2008, 01:35 PM
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If you get a little or a lot of oil dripping out of your air cleaner a few drops can easily find it way back to the rear brake. Brake cleaner will fix it right up (you have to pull the pads and also clean the rotors) and while your at it put some brake cleaner on a Q-tip and clean all crapola that builds up around the caliper pistons.
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  #16  
Old 08-20-2008, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelRider View Post
Couple of things on my mind.

I hear ya when ya say ya been doin brake jobs for years, so I ain't tryin to talk down to ya or nothin.

HD calipers get ruff shod handling a lot of times on pad replacements. We are all guilty of prying the pistons back in the calipers to clear the rotor with new pads when we re-install...right? Well, ya do this a few times and the ring of crud on the piston gets forced back into the seals. I try to take as much of this crud build up off the piston before I pry back into the caliper for clearance...a tip if you will. Frisco is right. Lots of places just wipe off this crud and sell rebuilds. Rebuilds are seldom necessary but cleaning is. The long and short of this tip is that the pistons do hang up on this crud sometimes and the brakes get hinky, feel like they need bled or have air in them. Do it enough times and a rebuild is necessary when the seals leak.

Second thing is bedding in of new pads on clean rotors. You know about brakes so I only mention this one in passing. I wish I had a buck for every set of squealing brakes I have fixed with about a nickle worth of 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper, a drop of dish soap and a bowl of warm water....you know the routine.
I try to remove as much of the crap as possible and probably could have done a better job. I'm sure I didn't clean around the piston at all since it didn't appear to bind at all. I'll definately do this when I tear them apart this weekend. The sand paper trick I've done but only dry. Might explain why it didn't always work. We didn't have these forums 20 years ago in the back yard garage. Sure would have saved alot of headaches and busted knuckles. What's the best way to clean up a rotor on the bike? Rotors for my truck are $30 bucks a piece- dinged up/ throw them away. Also have access to a brake lathe. Thanks for the tips SteelRider.

Fat
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