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  #1  
Old 08-15-2008, 08:18 PM
1996Fatboy's Avatar
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Default Braking in the rain!

Hi everyone,
Hope all of you are riding well this summer. I replaced the brake pads on my 96 Fatboy and now it doesn't stop well in the rain. I had plenty of brake before the replacement and still do as long as it is dry out. As soon as the pads become saturated I lose damn near all braking power. I can't get the rear tire to lock up on a wet road even if I stand on the pedal. Is this just lousy pads or rotors or do I need a complete overhaul? Glad I was going solo when this happened. Last year while rounding a turn in the rain the rear traction broke loose and we were tracking sideways at 30mph. My wife was on my back like a scared cat until we straightened out. Any suggestions? Thank You!


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1996Fatboy (FAT)
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Old 08-15-2008, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996Fatboy View Post
Hi everyone,
Hope all of you are riding well this summer. I replaced the brake pads on my 96 Fatboy and now it doesn't stop well in the rain. I had plenty of brake before the replacement and still do as long as it is dry out. As soon as the pads become saturated I lose damn near all braking power. I can't get the rear tire to lock up on a wet road even if I stand on the pedal. Is this just lousy pads or rotors or do I need a complete overhaul? Glad I was going solo when this happened. Last year while rounding a turn in the rain the rear traction broke loose and we were tracking sideways at 30mph. My wife was on my back like a scared cat until we straightened out. Any suggestions? Thank You!


Sincerely,
1996Fatboy (FAT)
First suggestion is to carry fresh underwear. Then I'd clean and check the pads and rotors to make sure there is nothing greasy or filmy on them.

Never experienced what you did, so I'm just guessing.
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Old 08-15-2008, 09:29 PM
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JayDee's answer is right on. If that doesn't work try a different brand of pad. That dirt track style cornering on a Fatboy with a passenger is TOO scary.
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Old 08-16-2008, 02:04 AM
dls8
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Stock pads? Good condition rotor?
Nothing oily burned into the pads?
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Old 08-16-2008, 03:14 AM
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Like dsl8 asks-- are they identical brand/type to the former pads.?
Are they the correct pads for that rotor.?
If not, that could be the prob..

If you needed a caliper re-build you'da known it before this prob.. Re-build kits are greatly over-rated and pushed..

There is a wee bit of break-in time on new pads..
They have to kinda find their home on the used rotor but, they always do..
Also, I had pads get oily more than a couple times, it did not seem to diminish their effectiveness all that much.. BUT I wasn't in rain at the time either..

I have Not experienced what you describe however,, otherwise I'd need Jays advice about clean skivies..
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Old 08-16-2008, 09:50 AM
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Rotors are fine, pads were new 3-4 months ago, calipers don't hang up and respond aggresively. When conditions are dry the rear brake will lock things up with minimal pressure and the front dips hard without any kind of lock-up. In fact I can't lock up the front at all- never could but before the change I rode in the rain without a problem. I figure it must be in the pad but how do I know which to replace them with. Any suggestions on what type to install?

Fat
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Old 08-16-2008, 09:54 AM
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The pads were identical in every way to the old ones. I've done dozens of brake jobs on cars and learned (the hard way)over the years what to watch for. This was my first 2-wheeler experience.

Fat
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Old 08-16-2008, 01:08 PM
dls8
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Other than using OEM pads (Dunlopad Co.), alot of folks have thier own preferrance for aftermarket pads.
I recommend you use EBC organic pads.#FA94.
Stay away from the sintered "gold" pads(FA94HH) they are very agressive on rotor wear for your year of bike.
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Old 08-16-2008, 03:33 PM
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Frisco stated:
Also, I had pads get oily more than a couple times, it did not seem to diminish their effectiveness all that much.. BUT I wasn't in rain at the time either..
You have been fortunate. I used a low pressure tire guage to check the air pressure in the shocks (rather than taking the time to get the mini air pump guage which allows nothing to leak out) a small amount of shock oil dripped out
onto the disc below. That left my rear brake completely useless. I bought a new set of pads and prepared to install them...then thought, there is plenty of pad material left. sprayed down the disc with brake cleaner, wiped it down, sprayed and rotated to get it distributed on the pads. Good as new. I'll save the pads till I really need them.



1996 Fatboy states:

In fact I can't lock up the front at all- never could but before the change.
You are better off. Last time I locked up a front brake the bike went out from under me at 40 mph. I get into the front brake quite often to the point that the tire lets out an audible squeal, but you want to stay just under the point of lockup.
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Last edited by shovelmike; 08-16-2008 at 03:34 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 08-17-2008, 05:17 AM
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Hi shovel

I don't know why I didn't lose much effectiveness..
Here's what happened--

The first oil pump on the 120" had Baisley feed gears but the return gears could not return oil efficiently, soo twice this happened, I was riding the hiway and had no idea at ALL that my oil was shootin out my breathers and ALL over the rear end..
I literally lost 90% of the oil..
I didn't know it till I slowed and braked at my off-ramp.. The rear brake was certainly less effective even though it was literally dripping oil when I got to my destination a block away.. BUT it still worked surprisingly good..

No exaggeration, it was literally dripping oil as well as my leather bags and the whole rear end..
It happened a second time before I figured out what to do..

Hey fat

Well, with identical pads and all else good, gosh, I have no more ideas..
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