front brake pads - Harley Forum

Tank412 · #1 06-23-2009, 11:28 PM

Alright, puttin myself out there, showing my ignorance but hoping you guys can guide me through changing out the front brake pads on my 2000 Dyna.
I have done pads and rotors on a couple of my old chevys, these days I just pay, gotta use the vehicle asap, kids, wife, work, ect.
Anyway any tips would be great, tell me if i'm on the right track. The caliper looks easy enough to remove, I assume the master cylinder top should be removed for overflow, c-clamp needed to push calipers back?, change em out, top off master cylinder if needed. Will the brakes adjust themselves like the cars after a few applications?
Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

frisco-rigid · #2 06-24-2009, 12:02 AM

Hi Tank

You couldn't be More on the money, good man..

Anyway at all that you are comfy with pushing the Pucks/pistons back..

If you have been topping-off the MC as the pads have worn and been getting closer together then yes, you may need to prepare for a wee over-flow as you push them back,, but if you have not been topping off,,,, the level will likely just go back to near correct..

After install is complete pump them till the pads make contact..
If a wee fluid is needed now's the time..

Give the pads awhile to start perfect service..
Sometimes a few stops, sometimes a few hours,,,, you'll know when..

Have a ball

JCourneyaP · #3 06-24-2009, 04:49 AM

Is it a good thing to change out the old fluid while you do the pads? I usally do since fluid is cheap.

One thing I remember is I ended up getting one Popeye arm from pumping them brakes untill the pressure built up and all was bled and working fine. I got real bored and the radio went into re-runs.

Jeeze I almost gave up figuring I was doing something wrong(This was when I swapped lines becuase of the new bars I put on).

Other than a pump to bleed the lines does anyone have any tricks to get that fluid pressure built up faster?

Hammerhead Pat · #4 06-24-2009, 08:23 AM

I don't think you'll need to remove the caliper, just the pin pad and the pads should come out.

frisco-rigid · #5 06-24-2009, 08:53 PM

That's correct Hammer if the caliper allows it..
I only have 2 calipers that I can just remove the pin,, the others, I have to remove the calipers to get to the pins to drive em out,, no big deal though cuz the line stays connected..

JC
Once you pour in new fluid just start pumping the new fluid through the system,, there's no pressure yet.. Be sure to pour in more as it empties the MC..
Once the fluid starts flowing Out the tube, you so handily slipped over the bleed valve, and into a container,, you can shut the bleed valve and pump a few times-----bleed the air-----pump a few times-----bleed the air,, and it should be done..
That's my method,, it seldom takes more than that..
Yeah baby

JCourneyaP · #6 06-24-2009, 09:00 PM

Duh......I had the bleeder close when I was pumping. Man! So you just keep it open and pump and dump till it starts coming out. Close. Pump and open and close till all the air is out. I musta been awful tired. Thanks FR.

Gas Man · #7 06-24-2009, 11:26 PM

Can use a turkey baster to suck out the extra or old fluid in the MC resv.

unclepsycho · #8 06-24-2009, 11:44 PM

Remind me of that next Thanksgiving....

Gas Man · #9 06-24-2009, 11:57 PM

I've used it for many things... after the chop build... as a precaution I used it to prime the oil pump and the tappet before start up.

aceharleywrench · #10 06-25-2009, 07:33 AM

2000 & up pad replacement: Slide a putty knife between disc & pads (alternate between inner & outer) till the pads force the pucks into the caliper (it helps to have the M/C cover off) then pull the pins & the pads will fall out.Slide the new pads in & replace the pins,check the fluid level & pump the brakes back up & you're done! No need to remove the caliper.