I just did a baseline DYNO run before I begin internal mods. Frisco you were pretty close on predicting the torque, 76 at 3700 rpm. Beautiful torque curve jumps over seventy ft-lbs at 2300 rolls up to its peak and then rolls gradually down to drop below seventy at the crossover point. 5200. Horsepower not so impressive but also not quite fair to the motor. I told the dyno operator to red line at 5500. I still have stock ignition and didn't want him to take it to the limit. At 55 it showed 66 horses but it was still climbing gradually at that point.
Now on the air/fuel ratio I have work to do. The front cylinder is a little lean fluctuating between 13 and 14. It does hit the 13 at 5000 and stay there. 13 being the proper ratio. The rear though stays pretty much above 15 for the entire run actually passing 16 at 5000 before returning to 15 at the 5500. I did re-jet the carb when I put the screaming eagle air intake in, okay Frisco I had it done at a shop. I plan to jump up one size on the main jet, this time I'll do it myself. Is that the right approach, and is it unusual for the rear to run leaner or is it simply that it is hotter.
Oh, I guess I should include conditions at time of run. 55.71 degrees F. 30.20 in-Hg (what ever that is) Humidity 21%, SAE: 0.94
ALso, note to self. Don't Dyno with a freind. My buddy's EVO beat me by one horse and one foot pound. I had to buy the coffee. He has a performance ignition and an andrews cam though and he doesn't have as much torgue anywhere on the run until he peaks after five thousand so I have a better curve, just a lower peak....
03, Have you're buddy put a Bob Wood Perfomance cam in his evo. If he does you may be buying him another coffee when you put them back on the dyno after you get your bike squared away.
You're cool 03, you're not just talkin you're walkin too...
Gee, I don't know what to say about the rear cyl, the first thing I'd do is look for an intake leak i.e. around the rear intake seals... A small discrepancy cyl to cyl, but not that much...
Also, as strange as this may seem, I've actually had it happen twice, there could be a sucking head gasket leak... Yup, sucking, not blowing... Once with a brand new factory SS motor, they didn't even question it... It does happen... In-other-words, I think there is some reason why the rear is soo much leaner......
The good news is that it's pretty much a moot point anyway huh, cuz you're gonna be up-grading, new assembly, more inches and HORSEPOWER,,, yeah baby.....
Easy there Frisco
I am going big inch and more ponies, but I also want a good mixture now. Any suggestion on main jet size for now. I'll do the jet swap this week, don't plan to do the 95 kit and heads for two to three weeks. I don't want to hurt the bike between now and then. Oh, and mtyevo I'm not giving him any cam tips. Man, I was out on a run with 20 other riders today and I took a whole lot of heat on him beating my numbers. He's bragging it up good, as he should. Let him laugh now. I'm just going to replace my top end and let him buy the java from now on. When I add cams and gear drive he won't even be in the same time zone.
Gee, 03, if there is an intake leak ??? and you fatten up the main you'll kinda band-aid it but the front will be very rich, I dunno what to tell ya... Aren'tcha curious if you got a leak,, Something is making the rear lean, it's not a normal thing... So far in my experience, everytime I have a big discrepancy in plug colors, I check and sure enough, I find a leaky intake seal... Have you checked both plugs after a high speed run, I'd be curious how diff the colors are with that big a diff in air/fuel numbers... When I measure temp at specific places on both heads, there's usually no more than 5*-8* diff between heads , with plug colors identical... Now the shovel HA, it can be 30*, ah, but I love it...
I may have pinched the ring when I put the air intake back on after the carb cleaning. I'll pull that off and have a peak. Dyno guy says he'd jump up a jet anyway because the front is also lean through most of the run. So, ill get a bigger jet and replace the O rings on the intake and then do a plug checking run. I'll be doing another Dyno after the upgrades so I'll know for sure then if I've fixed it.
Okay, I just swapped the Main Jet. The shop where I had the jetting done had moved me from the stock 190 to a 195. Because I had purchased a kit I still had a few steps left in the package. I went up to the 200 main. I also stripped one brass screw when putting the bowl back on. Small price to pay. I'll call it learning curve. On the rear cylinder. Sure as heck the O-ring on the rear air intake was all squished and cut. Front one pinched too but less so. Is that likely to have caused more air to get into the rear? I hope so because I'm putting new O-rings, and a new brass screw on it tomorrow.
Oh I didn't touch the slow jet which had also been bumped up one size.
03, Go to directparts.com, click on ccp by dp, click on products, then click on idle mixture screws. It will allow finer tuning and easier adjustment instead of having screw around with a screw driver every time you want to make an adjustment. It's well worth it.
Dyno shows lean on rear Cylinder 
Linear Mode
