I'm running a T-max w/autotune. Am pleased with what it is doing to make my 07 SE 110more manageable With the OE computer, I was dependent on Harley. Now I don't need them. To me, it's worth the price to be independent of the dealership. I can plug in with my laptop, pick and choose different maps for general experimenting. They give you a list of maps according to engine size, throttle plate size, and exhaust to choose from and a good step by step tutorial. Really a good product as far as I can tell with about 3 months experiece with it. It can be used a an open or closed loop system and you can set fuel and timing parameters by rpm rates if you want or you can let it auto tune. If that is not enough, the one thing I really like is he ability to set idling speed and rpm limit. After you get familiar with it, there is no limit to your tuning capability with in he limits of your equipment. It is not just a controller,it is a total replacement, plug and play computer an is very simple to install even with limitd mechanical skills. Change the narrow band O2 sensos with furnished widebands, route your wiring and plug it into your original factory harness and diagnostic plug and have fun.
TMax longer O2 sensors - problems with fit into V+H headers?
If you've got/know of an install of TMax/Autotune ECM and V+H 2 into 1 Big Radius (the curved 2-1, not the staight), then:
did the replacement, longer O2 sensors that screw into the V+H header bungs fit ok? Or did you have to weld an angled bung fitting for clearance?
I've got '08 Softail Custom, all stock. Want to add TMax and V+H 2-1 BR. But TMax O2 sensors are longer than stock HD. I need to know if the longer sensors fit ok with the bung postion on the V+H and clearance on the 08 FSXTC. TMax/Zippers says that if clearance is a problem with O2 bungs on V+H 2-1 Big Radius, than just weld an angled bung. But I'd like to know before I buy that I'll need to weld.
I dont have an anwer for that. I've only intalled on 07 softail springer with 110 eng. and stock Harley head pipes. I did barely make it with the T-Max wiring harness furnished for O2 sensors, it needs to be about three inche longer but didn't have any clearance problems with sensors. They are at an angle on my set up.
Finally replace the factory module with the Tmax closed loop on the 03 ultra. Install was piece of cake. Installing the bungs and 02 sensors was a little more challenging, but not bad. Just needed to take extra time to locate these in the best place, factory recommendation is within 4" of the head, and allow for enough clearance.
Initialization and tune was simple. The Tmax came preloaded with the map for the bike, pipes and s1 kit thanks to the great support from Tmax, so no messing with a download.
It's a completely different bike, couldn't be happier so far. No more coughing out of the air intake, and the popping out of the pipes is virtually gone, and throttle response is great.
I'm happy you got it installed. I've never pitched products for any mfgr. but the T-Max just simply answered my needs and that was to get away from Dealership dependancy. If I want to buy from Harley, I want it to be my choice. They could never make the 110 in my springer run right and the T-max does the trick. Congradulations. If it runs the way you want it to then leave it alone. Bet you will want to tweak it later though. I love experimenting with it.
Glad the unit is working well for you. Anytime you can cut loose from being dependent on the dealer it is good. They have to make a living too, but so many times they regard the customer as a fool and plot how to separate you from your money.
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Yea, I don't mind spending money if it accomplishes my goal, but I agree with you in that it seems that they play you a lot too until they realize you may not be as dumb as they thought. I am blessed with a lot of experience with engines and have made a living working on them for 40 years. Some people that ride don't know how to air up a tire. The one thing that gets my goat is when you tell them something and they ignore you and do something else and it turns out it was exactly what you told them.
About 2/3's of the way down the page, LC1 WBO2 Kit for Harley-Davidson Wide Band O2 sensor upgrade for H-D motorcycles.
Discussing this with a buddy of mine who is a mechanic, he broke O2 sensors down to me in a manner where I could understand what he was saying. He basically said that "2 wire" narrow band O2 sensors are very limited in their ability to self adjust, which is what comes stock on our bikes. He said "3 wire" wide band O2 sensors have more room for self adjustment and may not completely solve the problem, but will even things out a bit more than the stock ones. Now obviously we can't just go out and buy any wideband O2 sensors and tada it'll solve our problem.
Haveing wideband or narrow band o2 sensor is not the problem, o2 sensor only reads how mutch oxygen is in the exhaust, It dose not read fuel mixture.On most narrow band o2 they will send a voltage of o volts high oxygen content or lean mix, to 1volt low oxygen content ritch, The voltage swings back and forth low to high as PCM changes mix to PRE PROGRAMED value. PCM has ability to adjust a certin amount to make up for engine wear or modifications, But will only adjust it back to PRE PROGRAMED value, Lets use a fule ratio of 14.7 to 1, The pcm has what is called short term fule trim and long term fuel trim, Each one can adjust lets say + or - 30% ritch or lean, to keep fuel mix @ 14.7 to1, short term moves all the time but if it reaches the max of + or - 30% then long term moves up or down 1%, untill it either brings mix back in line to 14.7 to 1 or it maxes out and the check engine light will come on and a code will be stored. It looks like the night ridder o2 are changing the niddpoint value by a clibrated resistor so the pcm thinks it is keeping fuel mix @ 14.7 to1 but it really is by the chart really running @ 13.6 to 1.
To comply with the emissions standard with fuel injection the AFR needs to be at 14.7 to 1. This is very lean for and air cooled engine. If you add a different exhast and or air cleaner the ECM will still try to keep the AFR at 14.7 to1. But now you have a leaner and hotter running engine.
We had to re-jet our carbs on the older bikes if we made pipe and air cleaner mods or they would not run right. We needed more fuel, right?
This is why we need a fuel controller to change the AFR. Adding fuel will make more power and make the engine run cooler.
I posted a reply on the race fueler thread. I hope you all read that thread.
Re: EFI Controller FAQ! 
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