I was planning a full 95 inch re-build with cams and heads this winter. Alas a car crash and septic system failure disposed of my disposable cash so I'm thinking of a new approach. I want to do the heads first. I remember an article Donnie wrote saying they are the biggest choking point on the TC 88. There is a reputable shop here where I can get mine done for about half the price of a new performance set. Then I will replace the cams with something slightly better than stock. If I can get the bike into the 90 plus torque range early in the RPM range and keep it there late I'll be satisfied for now. I know I'll have to re-jet again to allow for the additional flow. The breather and pipes are already done. The ignition is a Dyna. ANyone tried this? Also, is there any risk if I get the heads done and ride part of the season before adding the cams?
I agree with frisco-rigid whole heartedly!
The old addage "there is no replacement for cubic displacement"
is not exactly accurate.
We had branch flow the heads on a customers 2000 FXDX and with an S.E. air cleaner, 2 into 1 exhaust and a re-jet, he was leaving 95's in his mirrors. I am not talking about walking away from them, I mean running past them!
Increasing the efficency is smarter than just increasing the inches.
Later we installed S&S 510G cams (yes they are mild) and he now likes to embarass crotch rockets on an almost daily basis...
Thanks guys
I got lucky on the weekend at a charity auction hosted by a local motorcycle group. The performance shop I was planning to go to donated headwork to the cause and my bid won. I got it at less than half price so I'm thrilled. Will I need to pick up new valves, springs, guides etc to go with the new intake and exhaust sizes?
Your best bang for the buck would be going with smaller ports to keep the velocity up which may mean only the port work. Ask the shop your dealing with for thier advise according to your intended use.I used to ask my customers what they planned on doing with the motor and how much they had to spend.You may want to consider the ultimate goal you have in mind from the start.You can easily attain 90 ftlbs across a wide rpm range with a street port job and a torque grind bumpstick.You may want to consider milling your heads and going to a .030 head gasket for say a half point more compression while your at it.Did you know that you can bore your juggs for the 95" combination?
Hey Pancho
There isn't a good shop near here to bore the jugs. But, since I got such a great deal on the headwork I decided to buy the 95 inch kit from the dealer. Picked it up last night. I went with the high compression screaming eagle pistons and the screaming eagle head gasket (is that the .030 one you refer to). With this set up will I need to think compression release for starting?
Cometic gasket offers 3 different thickness head gaskets. I definatley would install compression release's if your 10-1 or higher.They will save your starter and ring gear.Have you decided on a cam ?
Not yet Pancho.
I figure I'll get the top end done now and worry about the Cam later. I'll go with something mild. I still want to be able to go for long runs on the highway. The article in the Tuner special issue is a pretty good guide. Any suggestion on compression releases, brand or type? Also, do you know if I need the Harley tools described in the shop manual or are generic piston circlip removers, ring compression collars and ring installer tools acceptable?
I'm with Pancho. I fitted S&S 510 gear drives to my 00 FXST. It already had a V&H side shots, and a ness big sucker, but the cams woke that baby right up. Probably the most cost effective mod I ever did for the HP increase
All you need is a ring compresser. K-D Tools from an auto parts store will work fine. You can use a small flatblade screwdriver on the circlips.You can install the rings by hand or use ring pliers K-D Tools agian.Screamin Eagle compression release,s come with instructions for machining the heads and work well.Get a flow chart on your heads
to optimise your cam choice. You'll have to buy a tool if you plan on installing gear drive cams later on. Are you changing the cylinder head studs?
Getting the full 88 
Linear Mode
