 Re: Alignment tool
OK you guys. I have some definite opinions on the Harley Way they call out in the manual for my FXR4 but I'll just give some of my beliefs and observations here.
1) The way I see it the reason they use the little wire thang as the first step in the alignment process is mainly to get the rear axle (and therefore the rear pulley) parallel to the swingarm mounts (and therefore the front pulley) so the drivebelt stays centered on the two pulleys. By the way, I think you have to measure from the center of the rear axle to the center of the swingarm pivot cover (and not the center of the swingarm pivot bolt as the manual calls out). On my FXR the pivot bolt is not centered in the cleve block mounts anymore cuz of wear on the cleve blocks and actually one side is a little more off center than the other. This means that the pivot shaft is a little cock-eyed in the cleve block mounts (on my bike at least). The cleve block mounts, which are on the back of the tranny case, are parallel to the output shaft on the tranny where the front pulley is and I want the rear axle parallel to that output shaft. So that's why I measure from the rear axle to the center of the pivot shaft cover rather than the pivot shaft myself. The first time I tried to do an alignment by the book (the manual) I still heard the belt cogs rubbing on the side of the rear pulley. I thought to myself, "Hey...wait a minute here. That can't be happening. I did this measurement thing totally perfect and by the book." So I thought this whole process through and I came up with the above take on this part of the process. So, yes...I'm disputing the Official Harley Davidson Factory Service Manual. I may have my head up my a$$ here, and I've found it there many times before, but I'm sticking to my guns on this. By the way, there is no slop in my cleve blocks that I can see. I think the rubber part is just self adjusted to the constant forces on that area. I would have replaced them just for my peace of mind but they are a bear to get out and I'm saving that nasty job for another day. 'Sides the bike handles great as it is.
2) As far as the rest of the alignment process goes I use a straightedge to get everything else to line up although I think strings work pretty good too. You just have to tape 'em in place and lock the wheels or they'll fall off like Beartooth says.
3) Finally you have to consider that your rear wheel might not be in the center of the swingarm or frame by design from the factory. I know some year Wideglides were offset a bit. My FXR4's rear wheel isn't centered under the rear fender or in the swingarm but it handles like a ballerina on steroids and I'm happy with it. Not sure about any of the others. Kinda blows my mind that Harley might have let things leave the factory like this but, hey, they seem to work and after all the bikes are off balance to begin with since the exhaust and carb or FI are on one side and nothing seems to be symmetrical anyway. I just get the wheels parallel and the drive belt fairly centered and let it be. Nothing handles like a well set up FXR or even a fairly well set up FXR.
Ain't Harleys Great? I love 'em even though they seem to be kind of enigmas sometimes.  | 
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