Any suggestions on which cam I should install? I have a completely stock 80" EVO. I installed V&H Longshot exhaust, Big Sucker Air cleaner, and re-jetted using the Dynojet Thunderslide setup. I plan on having the heads done but not at this time.
I was looking at the Edelbrock Performer 80" package in the JP catalog. It says it will yeild 9.5:1 compression and will provide a substantial power increase from idle to 5500 RPM with great low end torque. All for about $1,400.00 bucks. I also like the sound of the S&S 96FLSS Hot Setup but it carries a hefty price tag. There seems to be alot of options out there and where to start is not easy! I posted a few months ago about my slow EVO(1996 Fatboy) and the time has finally arrived (cold weather!) for me to do something about it.
96
P.S. S&S also has an 80FLSS setup for 1986-99 models. Is this an upgrade for a stock 80"r? Comes with a 514 cam, heads, pushrods, and a Super E carb.
P.S.S. I just want it to pull hard, go fast, and kick some 96" TC A$$!!!!!!!!!!
It's tough to pick, isn't it. Zipper's also has an 80/80 stump puller kit for evos, and I wish sometimes I had gotten it. Don't know the price.
Spend some time in the dyno tables at nightrider.com, and look at the hardware used. You can safely go to 10:1 compression, OR stay with stock pistons, add SE heads, and I think I was told that yields 10:1 compression.
The 96" kit was out for me, too much talk of crankcase splitting between the lifters. I'd sure liked to have had it, though. Gotta go... I'll be back.
Sorry... So, I used 10:1 pistons, ev3 cam, V&H propipe, se high flow ac, dynojet thunderslide. I felt that the power was too far into the higher rpms for what I wanted... so I now have ev27, I think, and I can easily pass stage one tc's. So far, I havn't been with anyone who had a hot tc, I'm sure it'll outrun me. I'm using stock heads and intake, for now.
I hope this helps you decide, it's tough to know what to do and who's advise to take, not being in the biz. Check out nightrider.com It'll help.
Thanks 94, You're right about what to choose. The actual bikes that I've seen run that impress me are the ones owned by guys who haven't got a clue as to what was done. Some were purchased this way and the rest let their shops choose the setup and do the work. One peticular ride ( a 1999 Night Train ) really caught my eye. We were running side by side across a local 1 mile bridge at about 60 MPH when he dropped a gear or two and mashed the throttle, I swear the front tire was off the ground and he was gone. He's one of those who had an HD dealer do the work and does not know what they did. He does recall dropping about $4,500.00 bucks for the job. I'm not looking to drop that kind of money into my ride all at once. A wheel standing Fatboy would be cool but I'd rather have a hard puller with great top end. I top out @ 105MPH currently and my buddies 2007 Dyna still has plenty- I know this for a fact because I rode it! Not sure what the top speed is- ran out of road. I will say you can keep the braking system on todays models! My 1996 stops better with 1 brake applied than both of the 2007's. I'll choose some options and you and the rest of great minds can clue me in as to what you think.
When I got the 94 ultra, I couldn't believe how restricted it was... I could only accell to around 95 mph. Thru out the years, little by little, it has grown to be a powerful scoot. Being white with gold helps it to be a sleeper!
Yikes, 4500... Wow, that's up around Johnson Engine Tech's prices for doing a tc, and they are AWESOME.
I some kinda wanted that 96" set up... the case must be bored to accept the bigger jugs, and evo cases are already a little weak in some areas. I was ready to buy some other cases to have fun with!
I can tell you, without a doubt, the best thing I've done is installing the S&S HVHP oil pump. The bike is soo much happier. Cooler, accells better, and the top end is quiet now. Ain't cheap, but consider it.
Also, you can achieve real good results with hd/ se parts. They're the best bang for the buck. You may get better quality on some things aftermarket, so if the price doesn't scare you away...
About the brakes... once the engine mods were done, mine was lacking... so I went with se floating rotors. Good improvement, and not much more costly than the stock ones. Didn't solve the entire problem, but better.
You riding today? I think there's a big swap meet in pa.
We're going out for a short one, I hope. Take care...
Didn't hear anything about the swap meet but was able to get a short ride in today. Had to take my son shopping for a winter coat. Said he didn't need it so I took the bike and 40MPH and 39 degrees (not sure how to calculate wind chill) later he decided a coat wasn't a bad thing. I checked out the nightrider website- it seems the Andrews EV-27 is quite popular. I haven't had time to compare prices yet but are the HD/SE components much more expensive? I have the SE catalog and it list stage 1,2,&3 upgrades and the components used. Everytime I sit down to do this I add something else to the list. Pretty soon I'll price myself right out of the upgrade.
Edelbrock has an upgrade for the 80" that supposedly puts out about 75hp and 89 ft lbs of torque with OEM pistons and 90hp and 91 ft lbs of torque with their pistons. Used Edelbrock back in my 4 wheel motorhead days. Did not know they beefed up cycles also. They also advertise they need test bikes and you keep the products when they are finshed. Wonder if I can provide them with the upgrades needed and they make it a test vehicle? Ha Ha!
As far as the oil pump idea, I was thinking about that since in the last few weeks I've developed a ticking or slight tapping that I can't seem to locate. It's below the rockers and towards the front as best as I can tell. It's only there after it's good and warm and also started right after I changed the oil. Sorry this is so long, got some free time and wanted to make sure I remembered everything.
1 more thing and I'll leave u alone, tonight that is. Since this is an EVO and it has 28,000+ miles is there anything else I should consider replacing while it's opened up? I'm installing adjustable pushrods and lifters and thoght I may as well replace or inspect whatever else needs attention while I'm in there. Thanks for all of your knowledge, help and patience 94.
Edelbrock has been into it for a while, and I'm sure their products are good, I just don't know anyone using them.
About screamin eagle prices, they're usually a little less than the big names, and so far, I havn't had any trouble with anything I've used.
I can't think of any one thing you'd need to check or change with that mileage, maybe a clutch upgrade, but keep in mind, as these projects go (just like with the cars) one thing leads to another, and none of it is cheap.
I'm not a pro bike mechanic, but have done lots to my evo, and quite a bit to the twin cam heritage for my wife.
I'll be glad to help, if I can.
I don't recall where but I did read that I should replace the lifters due to the mileage. I thought it was a little soon but Like I said before I don't have much experience when it comes to 2 wheels, and as before I really do appreciate all that you and the others have contributed to reducing my level of ignorance concerning repair and service of my toy.
Is there a breakdown that would show what each component weighs? I currently have an unheated carport and shed and the cold weather is fast approaching. I figure I can disassemble it in either and relocate to my heated basement. If my outside entrance wasn't so steep I would attempt to get the whole bike through the doorway. Oh well! If all else fails I can costruct a poly shell and fire off the propane heater.
I've certainly been there as far as the shed. I was livin in a town house when I did the top end on my sporty... in one of those t-111 construction sheds. Turned out okay, but it sure was tough to get it done. I've got a good shop, now.
If you take it to the basement, be sure to drain the fuel tank and carb first, just to be safe.
About the lifters, since yer replacing the cam, you'll want new lifters anyway. I've been told by others to look for bad lifters around this mileage, on both evo and tcs', but havn't had the problem.
I would find a place to work on the entire bike. To do it the way yer talkin about, the engine ass'y would have to come out. It's MUCH simpler to do it in frame. I have always been careful about the temperature of the shop in relation to torquing bolts correctly. Seems like the only time I get to do my stuff is when it's 2 degrees outside, but I always get the shop and contents to at least 65 degrees.
I'll probably use the carport. It won't take much to close it up enough to heat it. A little poly and some 2x4's and the area should be livable. I decided to leave the engine in the frame. I'm going to lift it up then block it to keep it secure. Sure would like one of those table lifts.