Location: The base of the Colorful Colorado Rocky Mountains!
Posts: 308
Re: Why So Many S&S Carbs
I have a stock CV on my 95FLHTC. When I had the bike at the dealer for a recall he said that the bike was a good deal but the intake seals were gone and the carb needed to be rebuilt.
I ordered a rebuild kit from Perfomance Harley for about 12.00. I added an EZ adjust while I was at it. I am in the final stages of rebuilding it. It was pretty simple to freshen it up. But if for some reason it does not run right I might consider an "E" for it or have an expert rebuild the CV.
I guess if I could find a decent rebuildable E now, I would get it and rebuild it for a spare.
I would consider a mikuni too as Obe One Frisco suggests it.
Hey, before I forget, may I please offer to all my brothers and sisters that share this board with me season's greetings? Thanks for all the help you have offered me. I can only hope that one day I too can offer help to someone as you have me...
Kempo; When you get your intake seals on, we'll help you get that cv tuned right. They are a lot better carb. than most gave them credit to be. When you do the intake seals, be sure to tighten each side up just a little at a time. Tighten, wiggle, tighten to get the manifold settled evenly.
Thanks for the holiday greetings. We are off on a road trip in the AM to meet up with several Florida friends in Jax. Beach for the night, then to Savannah for a night.
Location: The base of the Colorful Colorado Rocky Mountains!
Posts: 308
Re: Why So Many S&S Carbs
Hey Hardtime,
Ya the manual says to just get the bolts started. Then put on the air filter backing plate then finish up tightening up the intake seals to 6-8 Ft#. When I took the intake manifold off I noted how the seals came out of it. When I put it back together with new seals, I noted in the manual that the intake flanges are drawn with the beveled side installed towards the manifold and not the engine as they were when I took them off. It would seem that the bevel of the intake seals would nest inside the bevels of the flanges. Anyway, I installed it exactly they way the manual showed. It was just weird. And the other weird thing was the manual didn't call out any anti-seize for the threads... Mmmmmmm
I just ordered a CV Performance needle kit for it. It comes with two sets of slow/main jets and the needle. 19.95 No washers or circlips here! It's a drop in replacement.
Location: The base of the Colorful Colorado Rocky Mountains!
Posts: 308
Re: Why So Many S&S Carbs
Todd I would agree to a point. American bike, American carb. Chevy, Ford, tomato, tomotto... In the past I've always tried to upgrade my bike and spend more stupid money doing so. With this bike, I am going to, as an experiment, not spend a million bucks upgrading it. I will spend limited money restoring it and enhancing what's already on it. If the carb blows clean off the bike, I guess it will be time to weigh all the options. I will of course give great weight to the opinions of senior people on this board.
Kempo
Unless you're planning on making your Evo into some kind of "race bike" (engine mods etc not mentioned) the stock CV carb in good shape should be more than adequate. In fact, if unless you're running a freer flowing than stock air cleaner/filter and exhaust system (not mentioned either) the CV "performance" jet kit you ordered may only serve to fatten things up too much for you
If you already know these things, ignore me
__________________ "If at first you don't succeed, try again...then swear"
Mark Twain
Location: The base of the Colorful Colorado Rocky Mountains!
Posts: 308
Re: Why So Many S&S Carbs
I do have a big sucker (Arlen Ness) air filter on the bike. It also has what I would call unrestricted pipes that run all the way back. One of the reasons I bought the new needle was because when I took the carb apart, literally the circlip and two washers fell out of the top of the carb. I am sure these were at one time on the needle. So since these washers and circlip just fell out I didn't know where to put them back in the grand scheme of things. I have a Harley shop manual but the carb break down is so fuzzy from being copied a million times, the assembly order was questionable at best.
I went to the Kehein website to find out which ring (or level) I should start with on the needle. I was unable to locate this information. So not even sure if the washers go below or above the circlip. Apparently the previous owner didn't know either...
By getting this performance needle, it will not require adjusting via washers and clips. And from my research it provides a performance enhancement that would not hurt either. So, for a couple of sets of different size jets (both slow and main) and the needle, it was not a bad deal.
Having said all that, if anyone knows the factory setting of the circlip, how many washers etc, I would appreciate you letting me know.
I am sooo tired of fixing the last owner's shade tree mechanics.
With correct install & support the Manifold seals will NOT be stressed any more at all no matter which currently available carb is used..
All Evo and Twin Cam carbs are supported the same way, on top at each head and on the bottom at the manifold.
This three-point mounting system's weakest and most vulnerable point is the manifold, due to the rubber fittings. The more weight you add, the more stress is applied. It's simple physics.
And it's not just a question of weight pressing down from gravity, we're talking about a motor that shakes violently, so inertia is an even bigger factor.
It's the same reason dresser pipes crack more often than pipes on FX models; a lot of weight being shaken violently.
To put it another way, if carburetors and air cleaners were entirely weightless, you'd rarely hear of manifold seals failing.
On my own bike I eliminated those flexible rubber weak points by using a Ram Jett one-piece heat treated manifold, which uses no rubber anywhere and bolts directly to the heads and carb.
Another benefit of solid mounting is that neither carb nor manifold can be misaligned even if you try.
Seventh Harley with over 200,000 miles on it, built numerous bikes, riding since '68, many years of shop experience –– ya think I might have learned a thing or two along the way?
Hi,Kempo
It's been so long since my CV was stock, I had to go to my shop manual to review it. They don't show a washer there...but my manual is for '97-'98 models (possible differences) and if the previous owner put one or more in there it or they would go under the needle cir-clip...noting he may have raised or lowered the needle to a notch that was just a bit too lean with the next notch higher a bit too rich...noting washers installed on top of the clip would'nt effect AFR either way.
Meanwhile, I would'nt have the foggiest which notch on your needle to go with...due to your location/alitude difference from mine...but hey the middle is always as good place as any to start...better yet maybe someone here living in your general area can be of more help with that...or you might want to check with several experienced Harley Wrenches in your area to see what the most common jetting combinations they've had the best results with on similar machines.
__________________ "If at first you don't succeed, try again...then swear"
Mark Twain
I will just dis-agree with you totally on that..
With most sickles (now-a-days) the carb or Throt-Bod is supported by the support bolt/breathers in the head which often (the way I do it) pull the carb Into the manifold just a weeeee bit..
In my experience, I've never seen seals fail from a heavy carb,, from Linkerts, SU's, all the S&S's, keihins, Bendix, Miks,,,,,,, etc etc,,,,, on Pans, Shovels, & Evos..
The most often cause that I've seen with failed seals is Installer error..
Even though we dis-agree totally on that weight issue,,, you are describing from your Hands-On experience (the only thing I give credense to) soooo you have your experience I have mine..
__________________ "Fill your hands you son of a bitch"
Rooster Cogburn