Alright, I got one for you expert gear heads!

[admin]

Alright youse guys. For those who may be curious about the problem as described above turned out to be a faulty circuit breaker. This circuit breaker is located forward of the plastic inner fender. The mechanics also said there was some kinda problem with the voltage regulator and the coil (maybe - know what I mean?) Thanks for the input.

Posted by: rustydiver on Jun 21, 06 6:06:00 pm

[admin]

Outa sight baby...
Very happy it's found, fixed and runnin...

If you ever pass through, post a note, we'll drink... As stated before,, that's open to all...

Posted by: frisco-rigid on Jun 22, 06 1:11:05 am

[admin]

I'm workin on a friends 1968 FLH that won't idle. It was sucken so much oil into the intake manifold that I freshend it up with .030 over bore & pistons. It fires up nicely but will not idle under 900rpm. Bring it down any lower and it drops to 5-6hundred and starts coughing and tries to die. Screw the idle screw in a 1/2 turn or so and away she goes, to the moon.Instant 3k rpm. I tried another S&S super "E" with the same results. I switched to heavier counter Wt. Springs on the circit breaker and it made it worse. New points & condenser changed nothing. The rotor has 2-3degrees play. The local H-D shop had no clue. HELP!

Posted by: hogdoctor on Jun 26, 06 1:19:29

[admin]

Couple of questions-- did you fix the "oil in the intake" prob...
That sounds more like valve stem seals, I've had that happen...

What do you mean "the rotor has 2-3 degrees play" .? Do you mean the points cam..??
Re-install the medium timing weight springs, be sure the cam and the timing weights shafts are lubed,, very light coating of high heat grease...
Be sure timing is right on,, overall advance is no more than 35*...

What intermediate jet is installed,, I personally wouldn't run an E on that motor with-out headwork or cam etc...
Have you been able to get close to correct IDLE mixture, or does it get screwy before-hand..?? Do you mean "idle mixture screw" or "idle speed screw"..??
Also, are you absolutely sure there are no intake leaks,, i.e. intake seals or head gasket or carb-to-manifold..?? Do you know how to check for leaks..?? These answers are important...

Posted by: frisco-rigid on Jun 26, 06 6:02:55 pm

[admin]

I did'nt see my reply to frisco-rigid so here goes again. Yes I fixed the oil problem. I had the heads reworked. I meant,the circuit bkr. shaft gear play was 2-3 degrees play.The carb.has a .295 int.jet. Yes,the idle mixture is close.Yes,I meant the idle speed screw is what I meant. Throttle response is good but takes a while to idle back down,like there is an air leak, but I applied a few pounds air pressure to the manifold and sprayed soapy water on the joints with now bubbles. While running, I shot WD-40 on the joints with no affect. At low idle,(4-5 hundred)RPM, it periodicly coughs and tries to die and if I don't wick the throttle a little, it will. If I turn the idle speed screw in to increase the idle speed, after it reaches about 1200RPM, the motor takes off and jumps to about 3000+RPM.
Thanks!

Posted by: hogdoctor on Jun 28, 06 6:59:15 am

[admin]

Good man, now, did it always have an E on it or did you guys install it after you did the heads..?? If not, what carb was on it..??
Reason I ask is that it's just a 74", 8-1 or so compression and the E is alot of venturi for that motor...
4-5 hundred is very low idle, even S&S recommends about 8-900 or more, that's because the venturi is large, especially for that motor and you need air velocity to feed it...
At about 1200 + or - the intermediate takes over from the idle circuit so try this, bring it to 900 then adjust the idle mixture, it will be different than at 500, and see what happens when you crack it or simply increase the idle speed... Are both E's you tried new with no probs..??
I'm guessing you mean 2-3 degrees lash between the gear teeth... While running the teeth are probably always in contact so I don't think that's it...
It does kinda sound like an intake leak but you've eliminated that...

It reminds me of an experiment I did years ago when I drilled out the air bleed holes on an intermediate jet and it behaved the same way, it would suddenly increase RPM's later and later as I drilled them larger... As I plugged them back up the transition from idle to inter. was earlier and smoother... I did it in my 93" HC shovel when I lived at 4000', I ended up using a 28 with 2 air-bleed holes plugged, ran good, even allowed me to totally disconnect that crappy overfeeding accel pump, a .295 was just too big/rich... Never ran as good as the Super B though, that's my fav S&S carb...

If everything is checking out correctly like timing, ignition, no intake leaks and it still "takes off", I would try another carb, a smaller one... Perhaps you can borrow an old Keihin or Bendix, about 36mm... If you've eliminated all the other possibilities it's gotta be carburation...
Stay in touch, we'll figure it out...

Posted by: frisco-rigid on Jun 29, 06 2:37:14 am