Thanks Ace
I'll pull it off again just to be sure. I want to test the chain freeplay in several spots and remove and examine the components of the Hayden tensioner. Should have done that the first time I guess. That's a valuable lesson for the future. If I remove a cover I will carefully check everything under it. On the compensator, do I look for back and fourth movement in the chain or in the cover? Is it best just to remove the nut clean it add new loctite and tighten it to spec. I'll also go over the inner surfaces for any marks and let you know what I see there. Oh, and that outer cover gasket has been on only a couple of days, have I ruined it just by torqueing it into place?
Okay.
It seems to be the Hayden and the chain. The tensioner is now below spec on the distance between the bottom of the shoe and the top shim. I still have shims in the original box so I can deal with that. Found the instructions in the box and they say the chain will streatch and re-shimming is to be expected. The chain was hitting the top cover at the bolt just to the right of the compensator, the one with the pin next to it. As you predicted Ace I found the marks. Two small gouges and I did find fresh metal on the drain plug. The chain itself tests within spec between the compensator and the clutch which seems odd.
I still want to double check the compensator which feels tight. What is my best approach there.
Grab the outside of the clutch pack (you did remember to disconnect the negative cable first,right? You don't really want to change your screen name to "Lefty") Try to turn the clutch & chain assembly back & forth,if the front sprocket moves at all behind the ramp assembly it's loose.If you have a torque wrench & a nylon block to wedge between the chain & sprocket you should remove,clean & retorque with red Loctite (150-160 ft.lbs.) If you don't have a torque wrench you can use an air impact if you're careful.
Hi,03
Oooops...I deleted my reply before fully reading Aces which was'nt quite what I was addressing.
Sooo"anyways"...IF I'm reading you write...and IF it turns out that the compensater nut etc is'nt loose...the reason your primary chain may seem to be within spec. (yet still loose enough to gouge your cases) is because you need to rotate your crank sprocket clockwise as far as necessary and/or your clutch hub/sprocket counter-clockwise as far as necessary to stretch the slack out of the lower row of your primary chain (that rides on adjuster) and put all the slack in the upper row before checking and adjusting...in pretty much the same manner as Ace described
__________________ "If at first you don't succeed, try again...then swear"
Mark Twain
Thanks Evo and Ace
Yep, Evo you called it. When I turn the clutch basket to the left the chain is obviously out of spec so that mystery is solved. I will verify it that way after re-shimming the Hayden. Ace, I did remove the negative cable (thanks) I can turn the compensator sproket in both directions using the clutch basket. Everything moves not just the sproket and after a little of that movement (the distance from twelve to one o'clock if the clutch basket is a clock face) I can feel the crank moving the pistons and hear them start to move through the open compression releases. Is that what you mean by loose or am I just trying to see if the sproket moves independent of the compensator cover and the alternator cover?
Also I do have the locking tool and a torque wrench. What is that monster nut 1 1/2 inch? I'll need to get a socket that big if I have to remove and re-tighten it.
The nut is 1 1/2",but if you're not getting any independant movement of the sprocket behind the triangular ramps you're probably okay.Re-shim your tensioner & ride it like you stole it.I will miss our daily exchanges,though.
Ace, I can't thank you enough. The kind of detailed advice you offer is priceless.
The Hayden is shimmed the primary re-assembled and ride it like I stole it I did. Sort of had to, my registration sticker is out of date. It was a fantastic first ride of the season. I rolled around the lakes, some ice covered some not. The sun bounced off the tank and the speedometer and damn near blinded me. The cool crisp air made the carburated mill very happy. Twist, twist, twist...
Now, since this forum is about sharing hard earned knowledge I have a shop secret to pass on to all of you. This will work with any Harley Davidson model, correct me if I'm wrong there Ace, but I will use the 03 Softail for the explanation.
The shop manual says the primary takes 26 ounces. I have learned you can add much, much more and cause no clutch slippage and no other problems. The secret is in not replacing the drain plug in the outer primary cover before re-installing it and adding fluid. This trick works even if you slightly increase the torque and re-fasten all of the outer primary bolts in the prescribed pattern to properly seat the gasket and then begin filling it again. You can tighten them three times and still pour away with no limit.......now I have a slight mess to go clean up. But the smile lads, ahh the smile....
Congrats on a job well done!I'm glad everything worked out for you,you saved a few bucks & you picked up some valuable knowledge in the process.As far as your tech tip....I swear the next time my table lift starts squeeking I'm going to try what you suggested.Ride on!
Yeah,03...those primaries are like an abyss,w/o that plug huh !?!
Nothing new though...I think we've all learned that trick...glad you're on the road again !!!
BTW great idea,Ace............... !!!
__________________ "If at first you don't succeed, try again...then swear"
Mark Twain
Re: Softail Starter Removal 
Re: Softail Starter Removal 
huh !?!
Linear Mode
