charging system 1996 fxdwg
Harley Ignition & Harley ElectricsDiscuss charging system 1996 fxdwg in the Harley Tech & Harley How-to forums; hey guys,
stator went out on my 1996 fxdwg. I have never had the side cover off of this bike so any help would be appreciated. I have the manual ...
stator went out on my 1996 fxdwg. I have never had the side cover off of this bike so any help would be appreciated. I have the manual for this bike but am looking for anything that the manual might not contain that will make this stator change easier. I have done all the neccassary checks on battery, regulator and stator, no ac voltage at stator. any help would be appreciated.
It's a very straight-forward job and after you're done you won't think twice about doing it again,,,, it's just a wee time consuming..
Do you already have your Clutch Spring Compressor tool, you must have one unless there's a trick I don't know about..
If the Primary chain is pretty worn you might be able to slip the Compensator Sprocket off the Motor shaft without removing the clutch,, other-wise you'll need to remove the whole clutch & drive unit along with the Comp Sprocket so you'll need that Spring Compressor tool..
Remember--- the Clutch hub Nut/Main-shaft Nut is LEFT-HANDED so you'll need a Left-handed socket,, OK, just kidding, a Right-handed socket will work..!!!!
Keep everything in order so you don't Mis-Place any spacers etc etc..
You will see why the stator failed..
Now's the time to correct it,, if for instance the rotor is not spaced out enough and has been slowly wearing on the windings........ OR if the stator plug insulation has been chafing and the bare wires shorted out..
Stators should theoretically last forever because there are no moving parts and they only fail for reasons such as I've mentioned..
DO NOT throw the stator away..!
Cut the plug off at the base and save..
Then cut one end of the winding right at the plug and UN-Wind the whole unit.. You'll get about 60 Ft. of solid copper wire..
Have a ball
__________________ "Fill your hands you son of a bitch"
Rooster Cogburn
I don't have a clutch tool, but i thought, according to the manual that the tool was only needed if you were going to disassemble the actual clutch, not take it off as one whole unit...?
also, i think the reason that the stator failed was that i had a oil change two days before this problem and the person who changed the oil didn't use a funnel for when the oil filter was removed and the oil saturated the regulator/stator plug and shorted it out. I don't know if this is possible, but it makes sense to me, I found that the inside of the plug was full of oil, oil on both pegs (male end) of the plug as well as coating the female half of plug as well.
This bike only has about 13,000 thousand miles on it, not enough, i think for the kind of wear you are referring to on the stator spacer, but i don't know. I guess i am gonna find out.
Needless to say,.I wont go to this guy for oil change again.
You are diving right in there for this stator replacement. In the future you should trust those oil changes to the one person you can depend on to do it right, yourself.
__________________ '73 FX
'85 XLX
'02 FLHTCUI
Read
2 Chron 7:14
Please join me in this prayer daily.
This is my Granddaughter Sky, age 7. Can't walk, talk, or feed herself but look at that smile. Anyone care to complain about their lot in life? Not me!
You are completely right. I was being lazy, on vacation and all, had some other things to do, so it was like one stop shopping, right? wrong.
So, I presume my presumptions were correct and that the oil in stator plug thing was not only possible but probable?
Any suggestions mike? Anyone else?
I believe the oil in the plug theory is quite likely, I've experienced stator burnout from water in the plug.
__________________ '73 FX
'85 XLX
'02 FLHTCUI
Read
2 Chron 7:14
Please join me in this prayer daily.
This is my Granddaughter Sky, age 7. Can't walk, talk, or feed herself but look at that smile. Anyone care to complain about their lot in life? Not me!
someone stated that i had to have a clutch spring compressor tool in order to do this job. Is this correct???In the manual it makes it seem like you can take the clutch off as a whole unit without disasembly....I am confused....HHHHEEEEELLLLLPPPPPP.
And...damn...I was bidding on a stator on ebay and someone beat my bid while i was on my way home from work. does anyone have a known good but used stator???
Wideglidebill
Last edited by wideglidebill; 07-15-2009 at 08:19 PM.
I don't know whether you need a clutch spring compressor or not, as far as clutch work goes (on bikes) my experience is limited to the Shovelhead and a number of Japanese bikes...too bad you missed the stator on E-Bay.
__________________ '73 FX
'85 XLX
'02 FLHTCUI
Read
2 Chron 7:14
Please join me in this prayer daily.
This is my Granddaughter Sky, age 7. Can't walk, talk, or feed herself but look at that smile. Anyone care to complain about their lot in life? Not me!
I know, sucks, no riding....I will go crazy and stress out...no relief...no relaxing..
yeah, i think it was frisco that said i needed a clutch tool..so once again..i am confused..
Wideglide, these are some things I learned by doing mine.
Before all this, I start by removing the primary cover and finding the tight spot of my drive chain. I then clean a spot with solvent and mark the tight spot with a paint mark. I then know upon assembly, this is where I check my adjustment. I think it saves time. You can then remove the chain adjuster.
I didn't need to compress the spring on my '94 flhtcu. I think your bike is the same.
The clutch hub adjustment screw is threaded into a small plate, which is retained by a snap ring. I backed off the clutch cable adjustment, then the clutch hub adjuster screw. Then, I removed the snap ring and plate...you can access the mainshaft nut directly thru the clutch hub.
Heed the warnings...it is left hand threaded. Use red locktite on assembly. Got an air compressor? Can you borrow an air impact gun? These wil help. You'll need it for the next step too, the compensating sprocket.
Also, watch your fingers when you install the rotor- outside spinning piece of the assembly-magnetism will pull it on in the last second upon installation. Clean around the carbon piles REALLY good. A chunk of metal could stick to it, hiding, and become dislodged upon running it. Then you get to do it again...the metal chunck could take out the new stator you installed.
Good luck, you can do this, just becareful to keep spacers in order as to where they came from. You'll encounter a few. It's important not to overtighten any hardware, so be mindful of the impact! I LOVE cometic gaskets, too!