Timing Headquarters Single Fire Ignition? - Harley Forum

billski · #1 09-11-2009, 11:20 AM

Anyone know how to time a Headquarters single fire ignition on a 86 Heritage? I had a shop install it and they kept the instructions and I can't find anything about it on the net.

aceharleywrench · #2 09-11-2009, 03:50 PM

Is there a timing LED on the unit?

billski · #3 09-11-2009, 07:22 PM

Yes a light that flashes when it fires I think. I can remember the mechanic setting the motor at TDC or something then turning the ignition so the light went on at that point. There was also a magnet that came with the ignition that you had to hold onto the ignition for some reason. I don't have the magnet or the instructions. Someone told me ages ago that the Head Quarters ignitions were made by a major american manufactuerer but not sure who and that these were just branded Head Quarters. Its a HQ-21835 if that helps. I have timed this bike by guesswork which is probably not the best way eh! Billski

frisco-rigid · #4 09-12-2009, 03:29 AM

Hi Bill

You can try this method to time the motor..
Static timing works well but not good enough for me that's why I do it this way.. It is the old-style Real-time method..

Eating plugs

When you get to this thread go to the last post, it is where I describe it..

I looked up your HQ ign..
It is Identical to Compu-Fire ignitions which I have run before..
It states it's developed for HI-Compression motors that need to be retarded 5 to 10 degrees.. And it states it ONLY has 25* of advance from start-up..
It also states it does Not need to be retarded..
I take that to mean that the "retard" is built-in..
In-other-words-- I take that to mean that you set it at say 28* full advance (like I do to my 120" & 127") and it's start-up timing will be 3* BTDC which is just fine for Elec-start..
You see if you must retard a normal 35* ign. 8* you could concievably be 8* After TDC which is NOT good for starting and the Idle timing could also be Slightly behind TDC too.. Idle timing should be about 5* to 8* BTDC..

I am not sure if this could also be the reason for the Diff starting that you spoke of in the other thread..
I'll say this---- I do not think this is the correct ign. for your motor, I certainly would Not run it in a mostly stock motor such as yours..

unclepsycho · #5 09-12-2009, 12:43 PM

Hi Bill
I gotta agree with Frisco here and it may mean you need to get another ignition system better suited for your stock motor.
I looked around and found the instruction sheet so here it is:

http://www.head-quarters.com/ignition.PDF

Edit: It looks like "Elite-1" is mentioned in the instructions... so they might be the original manufacture of this ignition.

billski · #6 09-14-2009, 08:28 PM

Thanks for all help so far. I googled for this stuff about 4 years ago when my issues started but couldn't find anything. I just tried again and found the same stuff you did I apologise for asking before I looked again. What would be the best single fire ignition for my application? Stock 80" Heritage 1986 ridden hard solo, ridden sedately two up 50% of the time. Thanks Bill

frisco-rigid · #7 09-15-2009, 04:55 AM

Hi Bill

I have only 2 criteria for stuff,, reliability first then performance..

I've burned out more elect. Ign's. than most guys will ever run..

In my experience I have never felt more performance, power, ease of start, less vibration, more mileage,, etc etc between any of them in either Dual or Single-Fire and BTW---- in comparison to points either..
I run points in my 120" Kick-only..

So, performance wise they're all a wash,, spark is spark,, it just has to be at the correct time..

However, reliability is something else.. Points are the Most reliable but impractical for your Push-button Only..
The 2 elect. Ign's. that have lasted me the longest in this Phoenix summer heat in the Dyna S in dual-fire & single-fire and the next is the Crane HI-4..
For comparison---- the CompuFire Single only lasted 3 months in this Heat..

The Dyna S Dual-fire is soo simple and in-expensive.. It uses one standard 5 Ohm coil..
The single-fire costs more and uses 2 expensive 5 Ohm coils.. They Both need a Mechanical Advance Weights set-up..
As we speak,, I'm running 2 Dyna S's in diff motors..

The HI-4 costs twice as much but is more of a Plug-n-play Ign..

Have a ball

billski · #8 09-15-2009, 09:56 AM

frisco-rigid,
I have been looking at the installation instructions at dynaonline for the single fire Dyna S. This might be a stupid question but my stock system used voes for advance/retard which I through out when installing the Headquarters unit and as you said Dyna S needs mechanical advance weights does this mean I have to install the weights from a points system?
Thanks Bill

evoKENevo · #9 09-15-2009, 11:19 AM

Hi billski
As long as you're checking out Dyna stuff...you might want to take a closer look at their Dyna2000i syst'm (single or dual fire) very much like the Headquarters syst'm you now have (no centrifugal weights etc) but much more compatible with your engine require'mts, etc...no need for stock or other outboard ECM as it's all self-contained in the nose cone.incld'g selection of advance curves & rev-limits, etc...

I installed mine several years and many miles ago...am very content with it's performance...the installation & timing are relatively simple...and have'nt had a single problem with it.

Single fire ignitions require dual coils (which I assume you already have) but F.Y.I. they make a high energy "Twin Fire II coil" (single or dual fire) that houses two coils in one unit that's very close to the size of a stock coil (same appearance) and fits perfectly under the stock chrome cover.

The package (with that coil unit) runs aprox $380** complete thru Dennis Kirk...or aprox. $240** for just the module,etc...no tax...and no shipping charge on $100* plus orders...hope this helps some.

billski · #10 09-15-2009, 11:58 AM

evoKenevo,
The coil I'm running now is the Twin Fire II but was not sure if I could run it with the Dyna S. I just bought a new Dyna S kit with coils (DSK6-2) on eBay 30 min ago in the USA for $100 plus $40 shipping to Australia from a private seller. I also just found out that the kit comes with weights and springs which cancels my question to frisco-rigid and it looks like I'm going old school heh! With the various issues in the multiple threads I'm running in here I have to keep costs down where I can. If I can run my old coil I might have to ebay the new coils or keep them as spares.
thanks for the input
Bill