Alright, I got the oil in and took it for a nice ride to Mobile, AL and back afterwards, about 90 miles round trip. I can't say that it made that much of difference in noise. It slides right into 2nd when up shifting, every gear on the way to 6th "clunks" right in like normal and the same when down shifting from 6th all the way to number 1. Either way it has clean oil in it so it can set for 2 1/2 months while we sail around South America. Once I get back to CA I shouldn't have a problem finding amsoil or spectro.
I ain't mad at ya evo . You were of great help and I appreciate it!
__________________ "A wise man's heart directs him towards the right, but a foolish man's heart directs him towards the left."
Ecclesiastes 10:2
It's better to die on your feet, than to live on your knees!
'08 Night Train
V&H Big Shots Staggered
SE Stage I A/C
V&H Fuelpak
Hmmmm..."clunking" into gear (up shifting or down) sounds more like a matter of your primary chain, clutch and/or clutch cable needing adjust'mt than any trans or primary fluid is going to change very much...other than maybe giving the ATF a little more time to "de-gunk" your clutch plates.
I could be out in left field on this. But, if I were in your place, I'd try working the clutch (in-out) occasionally while riding IN gear for a while longer...come home...drain the ATF to add fresh...check/adjust primary chain tension...readjust my clutch and cable, for the least amount of slack possible/necessary in both of them...and give it another "test drive"
Last fall a friend was complaining about how his '08 Street Glide was vibrating/shakeing a lot at idle...and telling me that he'd been told it might be due to a sloppy primary chain. When we put it up on the lift, the primary chain was right on the money...but as long as it was up there I figured we might as well (why not) change his fluid (same Formula + that was in there) and readjust his clutch and cable...noting that I had to turn his clutch adjust'g screw in at least a full turn (way too much) before bottoming and turning it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn again. "Surprise"...not only did his bike idle as smooth as ever...but, after he left, he came back in a few minutes with a big grin on his face to tell me his trans was shifting a LOT smoother too.
NOTE: when adjusting your clutch always loosen your cable first...do your clutch adjusting...and retighten your cable last.
__________________ "If at first you don't succeed, try again...then swear"
Mark Twain
really......by who ??? show me the results for if you think for one minute regular 'ole mobil 1 compares to Amzoil 'specific' 20w-50 ....no way !!
Show me 'one' independent test that supporst your statement, I challenge you !
Whoa...slow down hot rod! It isn't regular 'ole mobil 1, it is fully synthetic Mobil 1 20W-50 blended specifically for V-twins.
After something I seen IRT Lucas M/C oil, I bet Mobil 1 is better than that and I'd even venture to say that Mobil 1 is better than Syn 3 from H-D.
I think you'll find most people will agree that Amsoil is probably some of the best oil out there, but just like you everyone has their preference.
And I say after reading this (gotta look at the SAE 50 groups) Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 ranks right up there Amsoil, the sad part is this is testing that Amsoil did: https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
Calling Mr. Bluesfan...you have anything on any of these oils?
__________________ "A wise man's heart directs him towards the right, but a foolish man's heart directs him towards the left."
Ecclesiastes 10:2
It's better to die on your feet, than to live on your knees!
'08 Night Train
V&H Big Shots Staggered
SE Stage I A/C
V&H Fuelpak
Last edited by unfknblvbl; 07-03-2009 at 10:12 AM.
UFB
I believe the "regular ol' Mobil 1" Twitch was referirng to is the Mobil 1 fully synth 15w50 oil I've chosen to run in my engine...which is not (b.f.d.) specifically labeled VS blended for motorcycle use.
Twitch
In response to your "challenge" to show just ONE independent test...Donnie Peterson who's written several excellent articles in AIM about oils (and other stuff of course) wrote one in the Nov.'05 issue titled "Synthetic Oil Revisited" that I think you'd find very enlightening. It deals with fossil as well as synth.oils incld'g (not limited to) H.D.'s Syn 3..Amsoil and Mobil 1 the gist of which all comes down to basically 2 things...Synthetics are better than fossil oils for our scooters...and Mobil 1's 15w50 "automotive oil" rated #1 over all the "motorcycle oils" that they independently tested,without the inflated price tag.
So,OK..now..what have YOU got to show us hot-rod !?!
__________________ "If at first you don't succeed, try again...then swear"
Mark Twain
Last edited by evoKENevo; 07-03-2009 at 02:46 PM.
Reason: minor details & condensing
UFB
I believe the "regular ol' Mobil 1" Twitch was referirng to is the Mobil 1 fully synth 15w50 oil I've chosen to run in my engine...which is not (b.f.d.) specifically labeled VS blended for motorcycle use.
Correct, I was refering to 'plain jane' Mobil 1, not their MC specific, which from what I have read is a fine product.
Quote:
In response to your "challenge" to show just ONE independent test...Donnie Peterson who's written several excellent articles in AIM about oils wrote one in the Nov.'05 issue titled Synthetic Oil Revisited that I think you'd find very enlightening.
Haven't read it but I don't doubt it is good testimony. I am pro Amsoil for it's unsurpassed properties such as shear stability, wear protection, viscosity integrity, etc. At $8.10 qt (case pricing) I by no means find it a pricey alternative, IMO.
Loved this tread and yes engine oil is a personal choice. After 27 yrs in the auto industry
I have seen warrentys voided from oil or filter. One was a low quality filter on a 7.3l diesal engine. So yes we do have watch which products to buy. Engine oil API and Grade
is what I was trained to pay attenion to in oil classes in Marine Corps Diesal school and
factory classes. With Vtwins I've been learning about heat values and break down. Just being carefull with the 96 engine and no out side cam bearing oil plays a big part there.
Added part to this thread I worked for Ford for 15 yrs heres a TSB 06-4-7 pertaining
to engine ticking. Engines were torn down and examined. Lower quality filters were to
blame. They were plugging up the right side cam shaft ports causing the noise. Ford wouldn't cover under warrenty it was up owner or oil change company.
Any GOOD 20w 50 syn for motor. And yes, there are better oils than the one you like out there. Just depends on the parameter you want to quibble over. Go for the API donut if you can. I personnally run Mobil 1 or Royal Purple. I can get Amsoil, but I don't like it. And Syn3, never. I'm not even sure it's MSDS supports it being syn.
Trans, I run 90W-140. Smooth as a whistle. Semi syn Valvoline gear lube, based on, I could get it and it specs well against made for the job lubes. Wouold run Bel-Ray if I could get it local.
Primary - Some like ATF. I won't. The logic used falls apart on me. Gotta worry about that compensator ramp too you know. (Unless I get embarrassed by someone telling me it is sealed away in there) Agasin, would do Bel-Ray if I could do local.
Anyway, Primary I run 75W-90 gear lbe, same basis and brand as Tranny.
And remember, motor oil and gear oil "weights" are on different scales. So don't try to compare them.
===============
Now, Dyna0996, filters.
Ah, how I like a good filter. Trouble is, I LOVE a GREAT filter!
SAE study funded by GM.
40 micron nomimal filter baseline
30 micron= wear reduced by 50%
15 micron =wear reduced by 75%
Of course, at that time, GM still used 40 microns. Go figure.
HD twin cams spec 5 micron nominal. Reason one why I won;t use amsoil of K&N. They spec well, but no 5 micron data is available.
As for the folks who like to cut filters up, so friggin what? You can't see 5 micron dirt!!!!! Any thing at all will catch the big stuff you can see. Therefore, totally irrelevant unless you have a microscope and can id particles by size.
=====
So, good oil, great filter. Got it?
__________________ I love Lube, Vibration, Noise, and Heat.
Work and Play, it's what I do.
Certified Machinery Lubrication Analyst, Vibration Analyst, Ultrasound Specialist (I can hear what your dog hears), and Thermogragher, so no hiding in the dark with your greasy, jittery, self!
Primary - Some like ATF. I won't. The logic used falls apart on me. Gotta worry about that compensator ramp too you know.
Can you expand on this some more?
ATF lubricates meshing gears in auto boxes, why would the ramp be any different?
Not trying to argue. Interested to know, as I switched to ATF in my primary last summer...after trying to learn as much as I could about all this.
Thanks
__________________ "Is there finally and really anything to life other than food, $hit and sex?" Bubba HoTep
Re: Alright, I'm confused... 
. You were of great help and I appreciate it! 
to show just ONE independent test...Donnie Peterson who's written several excellent articles in AIM about oils (and other stuff of course) wrote one in the Nov.'05 issue titled "Synthetic Oil Revisited" that I think you'd find very enlightening. It deals with fossil as well as synth.oils incld'g (not limited to) H.D.'s Syn 3..Amsoil and Mobil 1 the gist of which all comes down to basically 2 things...Synthetics are better than fossil oils for our scooters...and Mobil 1's 15w50 "automotive oil" rated #1 over all the "motorcycle oils" that they independently tested,without the inflated price tag.
Linear Mode
