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View Poll Results: Please give me you input...Which one?
Santee Straight Leg Rigid 0 0%
Kraft Tech Hard body 1 50.00%
Daytec Bobber 200 0 0%
Paughco Bobber 180/200 1 50.00%
Voters: 2. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 01-10-2008, 02:59 PM
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Default Which Frame for a Bobber

I have basically narrowed down the frame for my Bobber. They all will have a 30* rake and 0 stretch.

For the Santee I have found a brand new straight leg frame for 605 + shipping.

I can't remember which Paughco I was looking at. This frame looked like it needed a lot of finishing work before paint.

I found a Kraft Tech Hardbody frame for a really reasonable price, too.

Then I looked at Daytec. Nice frames with a hefty price. Almost 1,500 bucks!

I'm more drawn to the Santee and Daytec, with the Kraft Tech following, but Paughco is pretty well known.

If I'm not mistaking they will all except a 200 tire with a chain (which I'm shooting for) or a 180 with a belt. Just looking for other opinions. Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2008, 08:53 PM
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I've been trying to pick out a frame for a bobber build myself.
Checked out all you mention plus a lot of others.
Pulled the trigger today and ordered a Kraft Tech Hardbody.
Guess I'll know soon enough if I went with the right frame.
Same specs, 30 and 0.
I was also looking at Gambler but did'nt like the price, 1595.00.
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  #3  
Old 01-11-2008, 01:13 AM
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As I stated in a similar thread recently, the 180-200 Kraft tech frame I ordered and received in '05 ONLY came with a 5/8" off-set tranny and motor mounts----that's not a good thing,, it's only done because they don't think the average joe home builder knows how to build (Space and Fit) the sickle correctly with a wide tire.. Soo, they off-set the mounts and most time the un-experienced builder doesn't even notice it until he tries to figure out why the balance is off to the left.. I returned that frame.. If it matters to you ya gotta ask them.. At that time Kraft Tech did not state it in the specs..
Some makers state it and some don't.. I don't trust Daytec simply cuz I've bent 5 of their axels, if the axel metal is soo weak I cannot trust the frame metal..
I've built with pauchgo, satisfied.. My next one will most likely be a Kraft tech but a stock style,, NO off-set,, you can still run a 150 easy.. Santee is an old name, but as of a couple years ago they too only built Off-set with 200mm frames.. OR maybe it doesn't matter to you..!!
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Old 01-11-2008, 01:50 PM
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Hey Frisco, thanks for the feed back. I read your post and found it very informative. Quick question for you: If in the description of a frame that accepted a 200 rear stated this-Transmission Brackets for 4 or 5 Speed (non-offset) Mounting Plate would it be a lot easier to square up the rear? Thanks
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  #5  
Old 01-12-2008, 01:02 AM
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Hi UN--
No it wouldn't be easier to square/align the rear wheel, it just makes available to you the option of using a 4 or 5 sp tranny,, it is a very good option..
You can also get an off-set tranny plate in either flavor so your world becomes bigger immediately..
I run a 1/4" off-set 4sp plate in my 120" sickle for that extra room for the 150 tire.. You can also get a 1/4" off-set trannny sprocket, I run one on the 93" shovel in a stock 1952 Wishbone frame for the same reason..
I rekon the frame you're referring to takes a 200 BUT has a NON-off-set tranny mounting bracket,, yes??? Now,, if the motor mounts are also NOToff-set it will be up to you to correctly space the trans and inner primary so the chain will clear the tire.. My guess would be a 1/2" inner primary spacer between the motor and inner---that would butt right up to a 1/2" off-set tranny (via off-set plate).. I would off-set as LITTLE as possible to achieve the desired result.. I don't think a 5/8" plate is made so if 1/2" isn't enough you'd have to jump to 3/4".. All of that is BETTER than having BOTH motor and tranny off-set.. Is there any way I can talk you out of a 200 tire.??
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  #6  
Old 01-12-2008, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frisco-rigid View Post
Hi UN--
No it wouldn't be easier to square/align the rear wheel, it just makes available to you the option of using a 4 or 5 sp tranny,, it is a very good option..
You can also get an off-set tranny plate in either flavor so your world becomes bigger immediately..
I run a 1/4" off-set 4sp plate in my 120" sickle for that extra room for the 150 tire.. You can also get a 1/4" off-set trannny sprocket, I run one on the 93" shovel in a stock 1952 Wishbone frame for the same reason..
I rekon the frame you're referring to takes a 200 BUT has a NON-off-set tranny mounting bracket,, yes??? Now,, if the motor mounts are also NOToff-set it will be up to you to correctly space the trans and inner primary so the chain will clear the tire.. My guess would be a 1/2" inner primary spacer between the motor and inner---that would butt right up to a 1/2" off-set tranny (via off-set plate).. I would off-set as LITTLE as possible to achieve the desired result.. I don't think a 5/8" plate is made so if 1/2" isn't enough you'd have to jump to 3/4".. All of that is BETTER than having BOTH motor and tranny off-set.. Is there any way I can talk you out of a 200 tire.??
I'm not set on a 200 just a chain, that is what I was referring to in my initial post. Damn near every frame I've looked at/came across is 180/200. I finally found some that accept a 130 and some that fit a 150. I'm not into the big tire fad. This will be my first attempt ever building a bike, so in what little I know (which is probably no where enough to even consider building a bike, but everyone has to start somewhere) I figured that was pretty much the standard anymore, until I did some more digging this morning.

Any thoughts on buying a roller for a first build? That should take a lot of guessing out, shouldn't it? Even though I'll probably rob myself of some much needed knowledge (i.e. learning offset, how it works, and how to overcome it.

Any thoughts on putting a Baker 6 into 4 behind a 93" shovel. I'm pretty much set on the 93".

I'm probably going to get my pee pee slapped for all of this, again because I don't know jack...lol.

Thanks for the info, Frisco.
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"A wise man's heart directs him towards the right, but a foolish man's heart directs him towards the left."
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It's better to die on your feet, than to live on your knees!

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  #7  
Old 01-12-2008, 03:30 PM
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Hey UN
Gee, I don't think I've slapped your pee pee have I, we're just talking sickles my man.. I really respect you for jumping into this,, Goood Man.. I'm happy to hear you're Not lookin to build wide.. Even with gobs of experience the final result might look good but is still as useless as titts on a boar hog.. Ha, have ya ever seen a guy on a Big Wide Long Rake do 3 three-point turns in the bar parking lot just to get to his woman waitng by the door, ooh man, Pathetic..!!
The 93" shovel is a super choice.. I have never run a 6-sp, heck, I've never run a 5-sp except for moments at a time, so that's up to you.. I personally would not run an over-drive behind a shovel cuz unless you're really cookin you'll be close to lugging it.. My 93" is geared to 3.12 final drive, man that's almost like having an over-drive.. The reason I can get away with that is cuz I have a 3.00-1 1st gear along with the lower 2nd, 3rd.... 4th AND 5th for that matter are always 1-1.. And I always run high RPM's.. With that 3.00 1st I do hole-shots all day long and only 4100 at 100mph..!! OK, enough about me..
Of course a roller is an option but YOU still have to fit everything and the basic design is Not yours, I would stay with your original plan--YOU build it, you'll be soooo glad you did.. I looked in Jireh, my favorite catalog, unfortunately as far as frames go, they've gone mostly to the dark side, i.e. mostly wide..!! So I looked in Dennis Kirk, my 2nd fav, and on P. 413 you'll find My next purchase, stock width, 30* neck(old-style stock).. Accept Pan, Shovel, EVO, with tall cylinders(important).. Hard-body part NO. 49-3014.. $872.00 delievered.. And it'll Easily accept a 140--no sweat and with a couple small tricks I can show you, even a 150 with chain..
Now, whatever you choose tickles the crap outa me, it's your baby and I'll assist any time you seek it.. Don't hesitate to contact here or here----
frisco-rigid@mchsi.com
Came back to include this-- if you don't have a Dennis Kirk Catalog,, if you'd like, send me your e mail addy, I'll scan this page and send it to you..
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Last edited by frisco-rigid; 01-12-2008 at 03:58 PM.
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  #8  
Old 01-13-2008, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frisco-rigid View Post
Hey UN
Gee, I don't think I've slapped your pee pee have I, we're just talking sickles my man.. I really respect you for jumping into this,, Goood Man.. I'm happy to hear you're Not lookin to build wide.. Even with gobs of experience the final result might look good but is still as useless as titts on a boar hog.. Ha, have ya ever seen a guy on a Big Wide Long Rake do 3 three-point turns in the bar parking lot just to get to his woman waitng by the door, ooh man, Pathetic..!!
The 93" shovel is a super choice.. I have never run a 6-sp, heck, I've never run a 5-sp except for moments at a time, so that's up to you.. I personally would not run an over-drive behind a shovel cuz unless you're really cookin you'll be close to lugging it.. My 93" is geared to 3.12 final drive, man that's almost like having an over-drive.. The reason I can get away with that is cuz I have a 3.00-1 1st gear along with the lower 2nd, 3rd.... 4th AND 5th for that matter are always 1-1.. And I always run high RPM's.. With that 3.00 1st I do hole-shots all day long and only 4100 at 100mph..!! OK, enough about me..
Of course a roller is an option but YOU still have to fit everything and the basic design is Not yours, I would stay with your original plan--YOU build it, you'll be soooo glad you did.. I looked in Jireh, my favorite catalog, unfortunately as far as frames go, they've gone mostly to the dark side, i.e. mostly wide..!! So I looked in Dennis Kirk, my 2nd fav, and on P. 413 you'll find My next purchase, stock width, 30* neck(old-style stock).. Accept Pan, Shovel, EVO, with tall cylinders(important).. Hard-body part NO. 49-3014.. $872.00 delievered.. And it'll Easily accept a 140--no sweat and with a couple small tricks I can show you, even a 150 with chain..
Now, whatever you choose tickles the crap outa me, it's your baby and I'll assist any time you seek it.. Don't hesitate to contact here or here----
frisco-rigid@mchsi.com
Came back to include this-- if you don't have a Dennis Kirk Catalog,, if you'd like, send me your e mail addy, I'll scan this page and send it to you..
Frisco- No I don't think you have, but on public boards there's always one in the crowd. I haven't seen one on here yet, but you never know. Again you come through with a wealth of knowledge. I looked at Dennis Kirk online (and ordered me a catalog), typed in the part number and the frame came up. However, it said it is no longer available. I'm sure they're not the only selling that frame. 140/150 in the rear will work for me. I dig that old school look of the chain and is one of my must haves. I hear ya loud and clear on the tranny...back to the drawing board and damn glad I came to this board, because if I were in the position to start ordering parts I'd probably have a garage full of nice new parts that I could use.....eventually! I appreciate the offer of assistance and will take you up on it. Hell, you've been a tremendous help already and probably saved me some dough already and I haven't even purchased anything. I guess I'd better hold off on engine, tranny, driveline, etc. until I get the basic parts. I know what I want for engine so that will aid in buying the frame. Thanks again
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