I was reading in my service manual about the fork oil change proceedure. It stated to relieve spring preload prior to removing the 1 3/8" fork tube cap.
Do i just make sure the front tire is off the ground to relieve the preload or is there more to do prior to removing the caps.
Also is the correct torque 40-60 ft lbs on the fork caps correct.
i will be using type E 13.4 oz as i am not removing the forks from the bike.
Any hints or tips would be appreciated.
Thanks!
__________________ 2010 Tri-Glide Ultra Classic
Tallmadge, Ohio
Riding is everything... everything else is just waiting!
Getting the front tire off the ground will relieve Mostof the preload on the springs. The caps will still have some spring pressure against them which will try to pop the cap up into your face. You have to keep downward force on them as you unscrew them right down to the last thread; That will prevent ripping out the final thread, or injury or dings on the bike from a flying cap. There is nothing really hard about it, just something to keep in mind. The torque value sounds right, though I haven't used a torque wrench on them, you'll get the feel for how tight to snug them. There are special sockets for the job but i just use an old English made adjustable wrench I found in my grandfather's old toolbox.
I hope this helps. Sincerely: Shovelmike.
__________________ '73 FX
'85 XLX
'02 FLHTCUI
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2 Chron 7:14
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make sure to take the weight off the front end. I made the mistake my first fork oil change and had the top cap screw launch out like a 50 cal bullet. the next day i bought a lift. but still be carefull for the caps will still have some spring tension on them. The tourque should be enough @ 40 fllbs. over tourque could split the o-ring. I always use my finger and put a little oil on the o-ring to help condition it, they tend to last longer. Not a hard job to accomplish. good luck.
I have an '04 FatBoy due for the fork oil change. A friend says I can change the oil WITHOUT removing the top bolt by draining and then refilling the fork from the drain hole. He said he draind his, then used a large shringe to fill the tube. He said it should be manually "pumped" afterwords to circulate the oil.
I've read the details on that shortcut, drybiker. I haven't tried it yet though. I may be tempted to try it sometime. No big advantage on my old bikes but it would save a lot of disassembly on the Ultra.
__________________ '73 FX
'85 XLX
'02 FLHTCUI
Read
2 Chron 7:14
Please join me in this prayer daily.
This is my Granddaughter Sky, age 7. Can't walk, talk, or feed herself but look at that smile. Anyone care to complain about their lot in life? Not me![IMG][/IMG]
According to my friend, when you pull those caps and pour in the oil, it's extreemely slow because the oil just trickles down....besides having to remove my handlebars....not that that's such a big deal.
It just seems too simple, to just shoot that thirteen or so ounces into that drainhole and replace the plug. Anyway, my mechanic wants $236 in labor for that job. My guess is, he'll take my money and just squirt the oil into the drain holes himself...
changed the fork oil on my 01 lowrider the other day.went through the top to fill,talked with some friends that went with the syringe method,may try it next time,those caps are tough to get back on,patience and attention are required,would be easy to strip those threads,seen a socket in Jireh's book that has a rubber cushion in it to not leave any marks on the chrome,that would've been helpful.probably easier than the crescent wrench i used.anyway,my buds said it's a lil messy with the syringe,and you don't really get in what the manual calls for cause of gravity,it'll leak out while your installing drain screw,kinda like changing engine oil and putting it in through drain hole then putting the plug back in.get some brake clean and spray it on the rim and tire when your done it'll remove the oil pretty good. later.