Springer adjustment to remove steering wobble
Harley Shocks & Harley Chassis IssuesDiscuss Springer adjustment to remove steering wobble in the Harley Tech & Harley How-to forums; I have a 2003 FLSTS. At ~42 to 45mph, especially on decell, the steering wobbles significantly. I had the bike in and they replaced the upper bearing, checked the wheel ...
I have a 2003 FLSTS. At ~42 to 45mph, especially on decell, the steering wobbles significantly. I had the bike in and they replaced the upper bearing, checked the wheel balance (ok), and tightened up the neck slightly. The wobble is still there (slightly reduced - previously it was between 40 and 48mph). I've seen other forums stating this is a common problem with springers - suggesting the above actions. They also mention fall away adjustment. Can someone explain this and explain how this could cause the wobble? Is there anything else that I should look at? Appreciate any help.
You should also check the condition of your front tire. My '98 FLSTS had the same kind of wobble issue you're describing that got progressively worse after hitting a good size pot hole...and it was from uneven wear (cupping) due the tire's belts etc being damaged...which can happen to a tire for a number of other reasons like loose spokes (untrue front wheel) worn bearings and/or just running on too low tire pressure to name a few...noting that any of the above could account for your wobble.
NOTE: when you check your tire for cupping etc...deflate the tire a bit (temporarily) and things will be more evident.
Meanwhile one sure sign of too much "fall-away" (loose steering) needing adjustment on my springer has been when the front end starts getting a little noisy (kind of clunking etc.) going over bumps.
__________________ "If at first you don't succeed, try again...then swear"
Mark Twain
I own a 2008 FLSTSB and haven't had any issues with wobble or steering problems. Not sure what to tell you. I may develop them as the bike gets older and more miles on it, but right now the springer rides true as can be.
Ken is right-on about "other" things being the poss cause also..
Usually I get a wee wobble as one or both tires get worn and changing it/them often eliminates it again..
However, sometimes it does not,, on my sickles..
You see,, I adjust my neck bearings a teeensy wee loose, not enough to clunk but enough to NOT get a High-Speed wobble..
I'll accept Low-spd over High-spd wobble anyday..
The popular theory is that this Low-Speed wobble is often caused (though not always) by slightly loose Neck bearings.. That may be true but I Purposely adjust my neck bearings slightly loose cuz, in my experience, the two times I adjusted my neck bearing too tight I got High-Spd wobble and that's one of the most frightening feelings I ever had------ totally Un-controlable steering/wobble at over 100 in a sweeper..
I loosened the bearings about a "Pube"-hair and No more wobble..
The fall-away is done with the front-end raised just enough for the front tire to clear the ground and the sickle Level side-to-side..
Remove clutch cable cuz it'll influence the procedure,, and anything else you might have hanging/sticking out etc on the front end that might influence also..
Now just simply point the front end/wheel forward..
Now lightly push it one way or the other..
If it Falls Away on it's own after an inch well, that's where I like it, but 2 inches is generally what is considered correct..
It often will fall a wee sooner or later on the other side, I do not know why, they always have on my sickles..
You really should get the manual also cuz it explains it there too..
Now,, I gotta say this----- I have Never run a springer so I am not sure if the procedure is the same or waaaay diff..
__________________ "Fill your hands you son of a bitch"
Rooster Cogburn
Rick
Follow the scheduled maint. (shop manual) for your springer and you'll get a lot of years/miles of good handling etc...other wise it will get crappy on you before you know it...noting (in case you have'nt noticed ?) they handle quite a bit differently than conventional front ends even when new.
Frisco
Not much difference adjusting the fall-away on a springer than with a hyd. front end...'cept for the damn frequency required to keep it right and IMO they just were'nt designed (antiquated) for high speed stability anyhow.
__________________ "If at first you don't succeed, try again...then swear"
Mark Twain
Thanks guys! On an FLSTS owners group site they stated that keeping the fall away between 1 and 2 inches each way is ideal. Still trying to get how this would affect wobble at a given speed.
The tires were new last year. I didn't hit any large potholes, but in Michigan, even the small ones are big. The shop looked at the rim and tire and it was true, but now they may swap out the front tire - in the case that a cord or 2 broke.
Rick
Follow the scheduled maint. (shop manual) for your springer and you'll get a lot of years/miles of good handling etc...other wise it will get crappy on you before you know it...noting (in case you have'nt noticed ?) they handle quite a bit differently than conventional front ends even when new.
I always follow the maintenance schedules for my bikes. I like them to run and stay as close to new as possible. I am one of the guys who will keep it pretty much stock and not mess with the rake or stuff like that. I do notice it handles a bit different than my 96 Sportie but it is a difference that I really like. With the sprung front end, the softail back end and the sprung seat it rides like a limo. Smooth as a babies butt.