5 Speed Trans Wont Go Into Neutral Harley Transmission, Harley Clutch & Harley Primary Discuss 5 Speed Trans Wont Go Into Neutral in the Harley Tech & Harley How-to forums; I have a 95 fatboy With a 96cid S&s and Barnett clutch I've adjusted the clutch and still it wont go into neutral unless it's off or I rev the ...

[Longrain]

I have a 95 fatboy With a 96cid S&s and Barnett clutch I've adjusted the clutch and still it wont go into neutral unless it's off or I rev the engine is there any other adjustments to get it to work right ?

[evoKENevo]

.Welcome aboard,Longrain.
Once you're sure your clutch & cable & shifter-rod are adjusted correctly..try re-adjusting the slack in your primary chain to spec...and let us know how that works for you. I generally shoot for 3/4"..leaving 1/8" margin of error either way (5/8-7/8) no problem finding neutral and going thru all the gears is smooth vs clunky too.

[frisco-rigid]

Hey Long

Are you using the Scorpion set-up or did you just slip in the Barnett conversion and/or plates.. Did this start with the installation of the Scorpion or conversion parts.? Are you sure the Push-rod is adjusted correctly and free-play at handle.? Adjust No more than 1/8" free-play at the handle.. No less than 1/16th"..

This sounds like an adjustment prob..
If you're using the Scorpion or Six spring conversion you might have the springs too tight.. That's a very common mistake.. The plates might not separate enough and you'll get hard shifts sometimes gear-gear and/or finding neutral..
A dry sticky cable can also prevent total dis-engagement..

DO Not hesitate to lube the cables, that's just plain dumb..
I've read that crap but it's usually repeated by folk 2nd-hand not by hands-on experience..
Don't hesitate to use a light lube or Dri-lube whether vinyl or teflon inners.. WD-40 isn't a very good over-all lube.. Tri-Flow or 3-1 oil works great..
The vinyl or teflon motorsickle cable inners are not affected by lubes..
The cable manufacturers make no recomendation you NOT lube them..
Remember to drip a drop on the handle pivot pin and barrel..
Cold tranny fluid can affect shifting until warmed..

As per evoKen, adjust the chain to 3/4" +- cold..
Find the tight spot when adjusting the primary chain.. If you have very long arms put trans in 5th gear and with plugs out slowly bump the wheel forward to rotate the drive unit to find the tight spot.. BUT, it is sooo much easier to remove the outer cover and (plugs out and in neutral) simply rotate the unit with a socket on the motor nut..
Have a ball..

[Longrain]

Thanks for the great advice but the clutch cable is new and free moving I'm going to look at the clutch pack becaust I bought the bike with the clutch in it already and all I know now is it's a barnett I changed the primary oil and put a quart of b&m ATF in it how do I check if the clutch springs are too tight I know it has one of them easy clutch tension reducers in it and it's still a bear to pull the clutch in thanks

[frisco-rigid]

All my Factory manuals say to lube the clutch cable..
My 47-58 Pan Manual say every 1000 miles.. My 1976-1978 FLH manual says every 2000 miles.. My 1978 1/2 to 1984 manaul says every 2500 miles and my 84 to 90 manual says every 2500 miles..

You're starting to look dangerously close to being a Troll.. Giving out false or mis-leading info and then arguing about it when you get caught..

You have shown very little tech knowledge on this forum up to now, certainly not as much as would be expected of someone that claims to have your experience..
A guy can't ride as much as you claim without beau-coup experimenting and breaking and fixing..
That experimentation and breaking and fixing and breaking and fixing again is what gives Hands-On First-Hand experience..
I give reasons results and back-up on every part, procedure, piece of machinery and situation to the point where it can be duplicated by anyone that can hold a wrench..
Now You Give us some baby..!!

Now suddenly you're offering some tech advice.. I think it's because you've been reading others back-posts and simply repeating the knowledge..
You're even using my words now---"know-nothings"..

I told you before I don't trust you and I do not believe your claims of miles or experience.. I think you're a know-nothing fake and a troll..

[HarleyCruiser]

I suggest you both go to the others profile, right under the name there is a user list, go down to “ADD TO IGNORE LIST.”
Sure will be glad when elections are over, sure will be nice to talk about Harleys instead of politics.

[oldhdrider]

I looked in both my manuels an old bike and new bike, neither one said anything about oiling a clutch cable. both said to oil the throdle.
Oil does disinagrate rubber, and I now that silicone based products are affected by oil. This might be a good place for the dry lube stuff, on the clutch cable.
Just my $.02

[Longrain]

I have a new stainless braided cable the is lubed with silicone and it moves freely I bought the bike with the Barnett clutch in it already how do I tell which one it is I didn't see any markings on the clutch pack also it had and ez clutch reducer on the end of the cable and it's still a bear to pull in I wondered if anyone knows how to tell if the pack is too tight the primary chain tension checked good too thanks oh and sorry bout starting a fight on my first post

[frisco-rigid]

Hey Long

Don't sweat it man, you didn't start the fight..
I always challenge a stupid or untrue statement and that guy needs to have his covers pulled.. I'll take care of him later..

Anyway, does your clutch have 6 springs.? Did you get a worksheet or list of instructions for any of the sickles modifications.?

Since you didn't do the work yourself there is no way to know how correct it was adjusted after installation or even if installation was correct..

If the pull is very hard even after the ezy-pull was installed I have a hunch the springs were adjusted too tight, only a hunch though cuz you've only given so much info..

When you dis-engage the clutch you should be able to spin the clutch hub with very little effort, if you can't that will be a good indicator the springs are too tight..

Go to barnettclutches.com and look at the various clutches.. If you spot the unit you have (most likely a Scorpion) then click on SERVICE CENTER, from there you will find the installation instructions for 90 to 97 Big Twins..
I didn't click on them cuz they are a PDF and heck, it's your sickle..
Anyway, I bet they will tell you how to properly adjust the push-rod and then the spring tension for that unit.. You don't need to have Great spring pressure, all you need is enough to not slip under load and with these Barnett units you're not gonna slip easily even with low pressure..
On my 120" and 93" I run old-style OEM 4-sp clutches and I adjust them as loose and easy as I can.. I can pull my lever with one finger but still hole-shot at a nod.. My point-- don't be thinking you need enormous spring pressure cuz of that 96".. Yeah baby..

Oh yeah,,,, because your cable is new it won't need lubing for quite awhile but it will need lube eventually.. The newer Factory manuals (I looked at some today) say at 1K, 5K, 10K 20K 30K miles service.. Yes, it's in every single Factory manual.. The prefered lube at the Dealerships I know is INOX and Tri-Flow for all years.. BUT-- the Dealer techs I talked to said they adjust and LUBE the clutch cable every 5K service if they work the sickle..

Alota guys simply don't know when they're being lied to cuz they just haven't learned enough yet.. But it should be common sense to you and anyone that you gotta lube these cables,, so, when someone says something that just sounds dumb right off the top, be suspicious..
That guy simply can't be trusted..

Have a ball bub..

[Longrain]

Thanks for the tips yea the clutch pack didn't spin free with the clutch pulled I'll have to pop the derby cover off again to see how many springs i'm pretty sure it was six again thanks for the help