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Go Back   Harley Forum - American Iron Magazine Harley Magazine > Harley Tech & Harley How-to > Harley Transmission, Harley Clutch & Harley Primary

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  #1  
Old 05-11-2009, 12:02 PM
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Default Clutch

MY 1987 ELCTRA GLIDE CLUTH WENT OUT TOOK IT APART STEELS LOOK BAD WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU PUT EXTRA CLUTCHS AND STEELS IN IT ????????????
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  #2  
Old 05-11-2009, 01:53 PM
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Default Re: Clutch

Hi Man

More info needed..
What do you mean the "STEELS LOOK BAD".?

And what is your clutch doing or Not doing that makes you think it "WENT OUT".?

There is only so much space for Dis-engagement so if you are able to stuff "extra" fibre's & steels in there you may not be able to get any dis-engagement..

Make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly & the cable is lubed cuz that's the main reason for them to stop working properly.. The primary chain should be adjusted correctly also..
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  #3  
Old 05-11-2009, 02:04 PM
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Default Re: Clutch

Groves ate into the steels no fiber left on clutches
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  #4  
Old 05-11-2009, 02:36 PM
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Default Re: Clutch

Naford

I'm surprised Frisco didn't throw this in there (he usually does);

The stock Harley clutch is a very good clutch to begin with. They can take a lot of power and still hold up just fine. About the only time the "improved' clutch systems are needed is when you start really abusing them like in drag racing with sticky tires. You can get aftermarket friction plates with a bit better material than stock but the stock stuff is purty darn good. A buddy of mine has a 120 hp Evo FXR that is a real beast and he runs a stock clutch with absolutely no problems. He rides real fast but he doesn't abuse the clutch at all.

You have scored plates because you waited too long to change the plates. No biggy. Just get new plates. Make sure the metal particles from the old plates' destruction didn't cause damage to the primary chain or seals and bearings.
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  #5  
Old 05-11-2009, 02:44 PM
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Default Re: Clutch

Just baught it glad i made it home with it
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  #6  
Old 05-11-2009, 02:46 PM
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Default Re: Clutch

Thank you for your help
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  #7  
Old 05-11-2009, 02:47 PM
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Default Re: Clutch

Hey guys

Naf wasn't asking about one of those "hi-perf" up-grades so there wasn't a reason to include that,,,, but I couldn't a said it better..

And yup----new OEM stuff oughta fix you up just fine..

Have a ball
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  #8  
Old 05-11-2009, 05:21 PM
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Default Re: Clutch

This is going to be basic clutch setup universal.

When they build a clutch pack, there are so many steels and so many frictions that, 'measure the pack.' Meaning, if we had one less friction or steel, can you imagine pulling in the lever? It would go to the grip before you would feel the spring tension, let alone if you could get the adjuster screw as long as post to touch the pressure plate and see how that works?

So, your main deal here is to build that clutch to stock specs. Say we have a clutch pressure plate that is the flex style that is the concave type pressure plate I will explain about, since the standard pressure plate is part of the fixed pack you might say.

Steel Plates
Steels have memory. Your hand over hand; your fingers all move together. If you palm to palm; your fingers fight each other. So, basic concept is that because the steels are stamped out, they have one cut side and one round side. All cut sides face the pressure plate.

Friction Plates
Frictions run the same deal. So when assembly begins, stack all steels and frictions in one direction.

Pressure Plate Types
Here is where we want to stack the pressure plate to run flat as a sheet of paper on a table. So to push the concave to where when you finally tighten the plates, the concave is flat on the final stack.
If it takes one more steel to push the pressure plate flat, then it took a steel and you pack a steel on a steel.
I'm sure if you measure a plate for spec, you should be able to measure the worn stack to a blueprint stack (stock in other words) where you would use a steel to take up the wear from the steels and frictions combined to push the concave to flat on it's final assembly.

Pin Adjust
Once you have that stack and the flat finalized, you run the screw in till it lightly seats or touches. You cannot screw it in or you will cause the frictions and steels to unload. So, obviously you just touch it as it stops, then turn it out 1/4 turn or less.
What this does is it acts more instantly on the pressure plate. You still have heat expansion plenty at 1/4 out.

Cable Adjust
This is where you want just about zero play at the cable lever to perch gap on the handle bar. You will catch N like butter if you follow these directions. The main thing to remember to find N is that pressure plate. No cable adjust or a pin move will help you find N or load this pack where it will not slip.

The other minor things like wetting the new fibers and such is more of the routine where you can just throw the dry fibers and steels in there. They will be soaked within miles of running. It's a windmill in the clutch housing for one. And two, I run a dry clutch so it does not matter about that soaking business. The pressure pushes out whatever you think soaked in. Think about it.

Last edited by cntrhub; 05-11-2009 at 05:45 PM.
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  #9  
Old 05-14-2009, 02:48 PM
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Default Re: Clutch

Thanks for all your answers going to put it back together tonight i will let you know how it goes
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