Unc, since I'm a seasoned old fart and been doing this stuff forever, I always figured I didn't need one of those stinkin' belt adjustment guages, Heck they're for rookies, and I know what I'm doing, right?
Wrong.
When I did finally get one and use it properly, I discovered that what I thought was a proper adjustment was woefully loose. Being an old chain guy, the first bike I ever got with a belt was the Fatboy which I bought new in 1994. Naturally, I figured that a little loose was better than a little tight; my learning from the old days is that when the chain is too tight, you start to destroy main shaft seals and bearings and wheel bearings. (This is still true, or course.)
So what I learned is, a properly adjusted drive belt is tighter than you'd imagine, and there's a fine line in there between too loose, too tight, and just right. A lot like Goldilocks, I guess. And also that a loose belt will 'chirp', especially on decelleration. Didn't you say yours does that?
However, if the rear belt really is jumping teeth, it would have to be waaaaay loose. Do a close visual inspection of every inch of the belt, and carefully inspect every dog in it. Also inspect every tooth of the belt sprocket (they're not "pulleys", they are "belt sprockets".)
The shell issue was with my fuel injected '06 Harley, but I dont go there with this bike either. I dont remember if it ever acted up using that gas. This is a100'' RevTech carb motor (probly already knew that tho). To look up stuff in the Harley books I use 1995 as the year even tho the bike is a 2004 BMC.
The Clutch is from 1994 thru 1997 Softail, as well as a lot of other parts from that machine.
By the way, what did you guys think about the clutch assembly having play, or loose rivits holding the basket to the ring gear assembly?
The bearing in the center is fine, rolls smooth, no lateral play at all.
Clutch
When I took that clutch apart, I didnt think it had all that much presure with that diaphram style pressure plate. Mine is dark metal color, and I was looking at the high performance ones are gold. When I had this clutch replaced at 11k under warentee, I remember when I went to pick it up, they were still working on it and having trouble cuz when the clutch handle was pulled in, the gold one would warp when pulled in...so I think they put the old one back on.... I cant remember that was 3-1/2 years ago. I bet if that pressure plate is weak, then it could let go under max torque when the motor hits that 'sweet spot'' after take of. The clutch does slip it 4th at full throttle, and a little in 5th and 6th.
After a while I will head out to the shop
a) to adjust the belt first, then test ride.
b) to clean electrical connections on ignition, coil etc, then test ride
c) ?????
__________________ Scott aka Unclepsycho
Redneck without a clue
Here's another question. Nothing much to do with this noise...
When installing an axle, should it fit by just shoving it in with a little bit of drag, or is beating it in ok?
When watchin OCC a couple years ago, I would laugh when they took a hammer and beat the axle into place........... on a brand new bike!!!!
I take scotch brite pad and brakleen to clean mine and when the bike was new, the axle went right in, but now (the other day) with a tad bit of rust and dirt etc in there, it needed a little 'help' cuz I was not feeling like spending alot of time cleaning it.
__________________ Scott aka Unclepsycho
Redneck without a clue
Having just done my EG axles yesterday and the 85's on several occasions I have found with anti sieze on the axles and wheels shimmed up close to the axle hole they go in quite easily. That might be because I have lots of free time and ain't in a hurry. This thread is a lot like going to what I would imagine an interesting technical school to be like.
Uncle, I would think the rivets on the clutch shell are going to be a problem some day. That stuff should not have any wiggle in it. If you can position the thing on a solid flat surface, you could tighten up the rivets with a drift, but I don't know how long that will hold up against all that horsepower. I am not sure about adding some welds, one of these other guys might know... But it seems like a reasonable fix for that.
New wet clutch plates should be soaked in primary fluid before installing. You already took care of that, though. If the clutch is slipping, be sure it's adjusted properly (that's a no-brainer, sorry) and if it still slips, you'll be needing new plates, or a high-performance clutch pack like the Scorpion. It has centrifugal weights that assure no slippage!
In the end, it might all boil down to that.
well, I guess this bike would make a great test subject for a school......
I set here relaxing going over every inch of the bike in my mind, (and yes there is lots of room in there)
I kinda put the bike in the scenario of an 1/8th mile drag race. the bike takes off fine then about half track gets the shudders... I've seen this when watching the drags... some times they blame the tires, other times they blame the clutch letting go.
so I am really leaning towards that pressure plate. I think it is the original one from the BMC factory. most other parts have been replaced.
wel, heck, here's the list:
smog crap = removed at approx 5k
clutch plates = new at 11k
tire = new at 9k and 18k
ignition module and coil = new at 15k
gas cap = replaced at 12k
oil and air filter = at 1k-5k-10k-15k- 20k
tranny oil = at 10k and 20k
primary oil = at 5k-10k-20k
__________________ Scott aka Unclepsycho
Redneck without a clue
Those plates are supposed to be high performance kevlar type, but I did not buy them, nor install them,(wareentee) I do trust the shop, they did not rip me off there. But the pressure plate....the more I think about it, I think I was supposed to come back and have a new one installed, when I came back they didnt have it yet, and then I bet I never did go back...so now, I am thinking, for $30 I will go get one of them high performance pressure plates.
And while I have the clutch basket out, I will tighten up the rivets... the innerds of the basket are aluminum.... imagine that!!! so welding wont work.
__________________ Scott aka Unclepsycho
Redneck without a clue
Unc, I was checking out the Scorpion "Lock-up" clutch a little closer ---- looks like there's not enough room in a stock primary cover to allow the centrigugal weights to function. Would have to buy one of their proprietary covers.
The outer ring or rivets in the starter gear are tight. inside there are more rivets thru the aluminum assembly thru to the primary chain sproket.... those are loose... so I will tighten them up when I get the new clutch parts... I may just spend cash and get that centrifugal clutch.
If that solves this... I will actually get to blast that bike at full tilt for the first time since I got it!!!! then I can go find that Dodge Viper that beat me in a race a while back...
__________________ Scott aka Unclepsycho
Redneck without a clue
Re: Too Much "Slop" between Accel and Decel 
Linear Mode
