Wouldn't shift yesterday. - Page 3 - Harley Forum

Tbone · #21 09-10-2009, 11:57 AM

Semi good news.
I called the closest HD dealer, Cajun HD. They said they would pull the race for me for half hour labor or about $32.00 and put it back on for the same. All I have to do is get the bike in condition to pull it and get it up to the dealer both coming down and going back up with it.

evoKENevo · #22 09-10-2009, 12:11 PM

I posted a long shot idea for you on the previous page here...just seconds before you posted your last one...have you caught it ??

Tbone · #23 09-10-2009, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by evoKENevo

I'm getting in over my head here. Because I'm not familiar with the bearing race you need to remove,it's size or how it's situated in it's seat. But for what it's worth Harbor Freight has an inner bearing race removing tool for about $13** you might want to check out...with 3 clawed arms that adjust out from 3/4" to over 2" inside diam. And the frame width is equally adjustable.

It would'nt work on my steering neck bearing races. Because they just set too flush in their seats for the H.F. tool's claws to catch on the edge of them. But if there's enough "lip" exposed on your race to catch on, I'd expect it to work pretty well.

No guarantee

just tossing an inexpensive idea at you.

The problem is exactly what you state. I'm pretty sure from looking at the tools on line that the puller has to fit underneath the race in a narrow gap.

evoKENevo · #24 09-10-2009, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tbone

The problem is exactly what you state. I'm pretty sure from looking at the tools on line that the puller has to fit underneath the race in a narrow gap.

Yeah,I figgered as much

but thunk it worth toss'n out there.

Tbone · #25 09-10-2009, 01:38 PM

Oh well, $65 is better than $200. At least if it's going out.

Tbone · #26 09-10-2009, 01:41 PM

The primary sprocket locking bar. Does anyone know how long it is? I'm thinking of getting my buddy to make one at the fab shop where my wife works. Not to save $26but to save the drive to the dealer.

unclepsycho · #27 09-11-2009, 12:19 AM

Stainless steel is perty hard stuff... can you make a puller outta a couple Stainless bolts...and grind the heads down to fit under that lip??? and then put nuts on the other end of the bolt combined with using a cross bar of some sort to draw out the race???
Just another idea.

Tbone · #28 09-11-2009, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unclepsycho

Stainless steel is perty hard stuff... can you make a puller outta a couple Stainless bolts...and grind the heads down to fit under that lip??? and then put nuts on the other end of the bolt combined with using a cross bar of some sort to draw out the race???
Just another idea.

No, no, no. You're not catching me on that trick. I've turned many a 30 minute job into an 8 hour job getting involved in making a tool and not giving up until I got it right.

It took 30 years but, I've learned that lesson.

Spade5 · #29 09-12-2009, 11:09 AM

Tbone, I am sorry to hear about your problem. I know you will get it whipped.

As far as turning a 30 minute project into 8 hours, I can identify with that. For me it usually is some bolt or whatever that I threw into one of my coffee cans and I can see it in my mind and will go nuts trying to find it. Usually if I do find it, it isn't what I needed anyhow.

Of course I do remember this guy who was putting an oil cooler on his ride and it took him most of the day to find a 7/16 hex I believe it was.

Tbone · #30 09-12-2009, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spade5

Tbone, I am sorry to hear about your problem. I know you will get it whipped.

As far as turning a 30 minute project into 8 hours, I can identify with that. For me it usually is some bolt or whatever that I threw into one of my coffee cans and I can see it in my mind and will go nuts trying to find it. Usually if I do find it, it isn't what I needed anyhow.

Of course I do remember this guy who was putting an oil cooler on his ride and it took him most of the day to find a 7/16 hex I believe it was.

Yeah, but I wasn't trying to make a 7/16 hex.

I got it ready to go to the dealer to take whatever it is to take off with the tool.
They'll also have to get that honkin' 2 1/4 inch nut off the main drive gear. I ran out of time to make that tool.

Maybe they will do that for the same 1/2 hour labor as the bearing race.
After I got it all tore down, I tried again to make it shift on past neutral. I verified that my shifter is free of obstruction. I looked at the shifter ratchet and the shifter drum while moving from 1st to neutral. Everything works to there. After it gets to neutral the shifter ratchet can't catch the next pin on the shifter drum. If I fiddle with the drive shaft the drum will pop to the next position sometimes and I can shift to second. If I keep fiddling with the drive shaft I can get it to go up through the gears and back down. Once down to first, it will go to no other gear except 1st and neutral and the shifter drum will not advance to the next pin so it can go to 2nd.
I'm convinced that it is either the shifter detent arm or the shifter drum. If it isn't that then it is the gears or dogs not meshing properly.
I've got my fingers crossed.