Keeping woodruf key in position?? - Harley Forum

billski · #1 09-25-2009, 06:34 PM

I have a 86 Heritage which has a Evo motor and a shovel gearbox. Each time I try to put the clutch basket back onto the shaft the woodruf key moves out of its slot. What is the trick to keeping the key in place. Also is there a way to reconize when it it is installed correctly without installing the rest of the clutch such as measuring the distance between the primary chain and the inner primary? I guess I could measure the gap I have now and keep trying untill the gap becomes a bit smaller. There is not enough room behind the clutch to see if the key is still correct but I discover all is not ok when I see that the clutch pushrod does not reach the adjuster when I get it all back together. The pushrod is level with the clutch not sticking out slightly like I think it should when I activate the clutch. I talked to a local indy who said I should check at the gearbox end to make sure the pushrod is still connected at the gearbox end but when I move the clutch arm forward at the gearbox I can see the pushrod move ok. I am convinced that the clutch is not going fully onto the shaft because the key has moved. I have tried putting a bit of grease on the key to hold it in place and I am thinking about trying a bit of blue locktite next. any other ideas greatly appreciated. I am pretty sure I am installing the rest of the clutch correctly as I am getting the pressure plate dead straight (not convex or concave) when I put it all together.
Cheers Bill

frisco-rigid · #2 09-26-2009, 03:17 AM

Hi Bill

I put my 127" motor in front of that same tranny in a rubber-mount '86..
I'm guessing yours is the 4-bolt Pressure and Adjuster plate also..
There is no trick to the Key.. It should be a very slight, fingers only press fit..
Round side into the shaft,, straight side up and "in line" with the taper..
I've read about a wee LocTite on the key,, I certainly will never do that..

I have never had this prob but I'll try to figure out something with you..

How bout this---- with NO key slip the Clutch Hub/Basket fully onto the shaft and observe/measure to a "spot".. Remove..
Then turn the shaft so the "ways" is at 12 O'clock and slip in the key..
Then with the Hub "ways" at 12 O'clock slip it on the shaft,, the key should slip right into the hubs keyway..
Then measure to that "spot" again..
I cannot imagine a diff outcome..

I don't quite understand your description of the Push-Rod prob,,, I bet it'll all come together for you,, try again..

billski · #3 09-26-2009, 05:36 AM

frisco-rigid,
I thought you might be the first to reply.
Yes to the 4 bolt pressure & adjuster plate and of the good fit of the key. I will try your suggestion by measuring the distance between inner primary and chain without the key in place after checking the "incorrect" distance I have now. I have been trying to do this from the 12 O' clock position all along.
Regarding "Round side into the shaft,, straight side up and "in line" with the taper.." I've got all that except for the "inline with the taper.." does that mean the top of the key should follow the angle or line of the taper? ie. lower at the front and higher at the back to help the hub slip on?
I am almost certain the problem with the pushrod is directly caused by the clutch basket not going fully onto the shaft which means the pushrod does not reach the adjuster properly.
This is much more fun than paying someone else to do it!
Cheers Bill

frisco-rigid · #4 09-26-2009, 03:36 PM

Hi Bill

Ummm----- yes by George,, I think you've got it..!
"..........lower at the front and higher at the back to help the hub slip on?"
Another better word to describe the angle for the Key is Parallel to the angle of that tapered part of the shaft..

I bet that was the way you were slipping it in, in the first place anyway,,,, wasn't it.?

I didn't ask this---- When it feels/seems the Hub/Basket does Not slip on all the way does it "rock" on the shaft or anything of that nature.?

is this the original key.?
If not, could it be tooo tall.?

Of course it's more fun and will be even more fun as you become the Master of your sickle..

billski · #5 09-26-2009, 08:08 PM

Hi Frisco,
Parrallel it is then, I had thought of that as I think the key is catching on the hub.
I wasn't entirely sure (about parallel) as I didn't have to do that on the keys in the Billet S&S oil pump I installed needlessly 4 years ago. But that is another story that started from having a indy in the UK replace weeping base gaskets for me just before I put the bike in a container for Oz. He left some of the gasket in the engine, some of which made it to the tappet screen, blocking it and causing wet sumping. He recommended a new oil pump and I found pieces of the base gasket when I was installing the pump and a steel screen! Occaisionally I think about how many pieces of gasket are still in there. If that's not a good enough reason to do your own wrenching from then on I'm not sure what is!
I am not aware of any rocking or misalignment issues. I will check that though!
I believe the key is original at least it was the one in there.
I hope to have another go tonight after work and the Dyna S should arrive from your side of the pond soon!
To summarise: measure the gap now and again with no key, then install with a parallel key and bob's your uncle! Next installment of wrenching 101 soon.
Cheers Bill

billski · #6 10-01-2009, 09:15 AM

frisco-rigid, It took a couple of more attempts but the clutch hub finally went on to the key. I had measured the starter ring from the inner primary so Knew it was on when the gap got smaller. I then had a small problem with the clutch pushrod dropping out of the release finger. I had to pull the tranny cover off to put it back in then it pushed the circlip off. Pulled the cover again then took it for a ride and after a couple of miles suddenly no clutch and it felt like it had disconnected again. Got it home without stopping ( no traffic lights around here) and pulled the tranny cover again and found the release finger had snapped. Found a new one at a indy 60 miles from here so ran up there in the car. I took the pushrod with me as well and they showed me that the pushrod bearing and the thrust washers were knackered (thrust washers grooved) so replaced them along with a new circlip. I think I broke the release finger forcing the clutch cable on. The correct clutch cable has been impossible to get here in Oz as it is so rare being 8" over size and a evo with a shovel gearbox. The one I did get a hold of is just a little too short on the inner to reach the release lever. I have to take the release lever off put the cable on then replace the lever. It should have about 50 years of stretch in it though! I was thinking about contacting Barnetts to get one sent over.
Cheers Bill