RamJet Retainer for 5 Finger Clutch hub - Harley Forum

admin · #1 05-31-2007, 10:34 AM

Does anyone know is there anyone that sells a Ramjet retainer, or now they are called clutch hub retainer, for a 5 finger clutch hub? all the ones I seem to find are for a 3 finger and I have tried modifing one of those, with a little luck, but still have some hub slide.

Thanks!

Posted by: Wideglide94 on May 25, 07 11:14:48 am

admin · #2 05-31-2007, 10:35 AM

I've never seen one for 5-finger hub...
What do you run this old-style on..??
Option---- The Tamer in Jireh Cycles is $48.00

Another option is the "the big fix" that's what it used to be called in the catalogs... It's the long loose rollers used in place of the cage and small rollers... Ran them several years ago, they work kinda nice... Trouble is, when you want to slide the clutch shell off to change gearing etc.etc.etc.,, you must catch em all so as to not lose one, then clean em individually to slip em back in during re-assembly... Since I like to change gearing with ease and speed, I stopped using em,, didn't need em anyway, just wanted to try em...

Posted by: frisco-rigid on May 25, 07 7:10:37 pm

admin · #3 05-31-2007, 10:35 AM

STOP THE PRESSES, HOLD THE PHONE, heh, I always wanted to say that...
OK Ok ok, anyway, after I posted, I noticed that right below the before-mentioned Big Fix in the Jireh catalog there is an adjustable clutch hub retainer for 3 AND 5 finger hubs,, $9.00...
Carry on...

Posted by: frisco-rigid on May 25, 07 7:40:54 pm

admin · #4 05-31-2007, 10:35 AM

Frisco,

Thanks for the info i will see if I can find it in the Jireh Cycles book, I am running the Big fix already, but the hub cocks out just a bit ont he 55 I just finished. Not running a mouse trap. As always, Thanks!

Posted by: Wideglide94 on May 30, 07 10:58:24 am

admin · #5 05-31-2007, 10:36 AM

This sounds sweet, you just built a 55,,, coool, we can drink...
Ok, now after knowing it's a 55, are you running the old-style 4-sp with the tin primary..? Chain, belt..?? If the old tins then perhaps the trans needs a slight re-alignment since there is a lil bit of play in the old-stlye, just in case you havn't checked it already...
Just throwing it out there...

Posted by: frisco-rigid on May 30, 07 4:05:49 pm

motov8 · #6 06-03-2007, 07:21 PM

Hi frisco or anyone,
Did you ever get the adjustable clutch hub retainer for the 5 stud hub? I have a 56 pan that I am putting the 3" BDL belt drive on and I am fighting the same issue. Can't seem to find anything. I have the 07 Jireh catalog but I could not understand how it could work on 3 and 5 stud unless it comes with 5 circlips and the adjustments were on the 5 studs, not 2 like the three stud retainer.

Thanks

frisco-rigid · #7 06-06-2007, 05:10 AM

Wideglide, I posted to you on the day that it all switched over and it's not here, guess it got lost, like me, I just got in tonight... Much of this is also what I posted to you...

First off, motov8, the retainer in the jireh doesn't state that it comes with circlips at all like the Ramjet does, and it appears in the photo to have no adjustments like the Ramjet, um, it is the Ramjet you're referring to right.?..
I have used the Ramjet on the 5-finger and had to modify it probably much like wideglide did, it worked OK, I chucked it though... Anyway, the photo looks to me like maybe it just simply has a larger OD that rests against the clutch shell preventing it from creeping out... But, here's what you must do... Be sure that the tranny is aligned perfect as you can do it... If it's cocked forward(toward motor) it will steer the shell outward into the needed space for correct dis-engagement, and if it is tilted slightly down it will also be affected by gravity in much the same way that it won't dis-engage as well resting over on the kick stand... With the sickle up-right, the hub should stop turning in seconds after dis-engagement... Shimming up the left-side tranny mount bolts will aid in that... I assume you're running old-style 4-sp with tins soo, you can easliy check/do alignment... I've dealt with both issues...
I never saw a need for a 3" belt even on my 120" so I have no experience there but,, a dime to a doughnut,, the 3" tends to drag the shell out easier than a narrower belt... Also be sure the discs and plates and friction disc are clean from oil/grease and the pressure plate and clutch releasing disc have sufficient space... If you're using the old mouse-trap springs it calls for 31/32", the longer mouse-trap eliminator springs call for 1 1/32"... I run my longer springs with mouse-traps at about 1 3/32" with no slippage when twisting the wick or kicking the 120" and the 93"... That longer space can assist you with dis-engagement,,, been there...

#8 06-06-2007, 03:15 PM

Frisco,

Thanks, all good info, I have double checked alignment and such, still getting break in done, so need to re-adjust after each ride. How far do you adjust your adjusting screw out before locking it down? I have been doing a 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, but someone mentioned they used to do only a 1/4 turn on the old 4 spds.

All trial and error for me and these older setups are all unique just like kick starting. Now thats been a tiring trial and error.

frisco-rigid · #9 06-06-2007, 11:58 PM

Hi Wide
Which adjusting screw are you talking about..? The one in the center of the clutch hub or at the end of the clutch cable..??
The correct way to adjust the mouse-trap eliminator is done on a "push button" sickle... You adjust the cable-end of the clutch arm 1/2" from the starter while firm against the throw-out bearing then adjust components to about 1/4" of play at the handle... That insures a contact free throw-out bearing, BTW, do you have the old-style "bell" throw-out bearing or the un-dependable wafer style.?
OK, you have no starter so, try this... Loosen the "push rod adjust screw lock-nut"(center of the clutch hub) and loosen the clutch cable adjusting lock nut and screw the cable in(shorten) till the cluch arm can move to rear, say at a 45* off center, that is, if nothing gets in the way...
Now screw in the push rod adjust screw till the throw out bearing is firm against the clutch arm(inside kick cover)... Now screw out the cable adjust till there is about 1/4"(I personally would be about 1/8"+) at the handle... Now that should get you close if not into the ball park... And remember the pressure plate/clutch releasing disc measurement...
Here's another trick I've used... Drill a hole about an inch or whatever you wish, in toward the center of the clutch arm from the existing clutch cable hole and file in a slot to slip in the clutch cable... In-other-words, you're making another clutch cable hole... That gives you MORE range of motion for the clutch arm per the handle stroke... The farther in from the end the more motion you gain... Done em...
Hmmm, kickin the pan, yup, I don't remember what carb/timing or did you ever tell..?

#10 06-07-2007, 01:33 PM

Frisco,

Yes refering to the adjuster in the center of the Clutch basket. I am not running a mouse trap, but I have been adjusting the cable like you said. Screw the cable all the way into the mousrtrap eliminator, then adjust the screw until the pushrod is against the thorwout then back it off 1/2 a turn, then tighten the cable to have about an 1/8" of freeplay. Which sounds like what you recommended.

I am running a Mallory timer and an S&S Super E, running an Andrews AB grind cam and Hydrolic lifters. STD cases and Head, with stock flywheel/pistons. CC two brush generator, with a CC Electric regulator. First time I ever started it, on the third kick she coughed twice, then made me work for it for the next 30 minutes before she finally fired. Gotta love the sound of a Pan especially with a modified 2-1 Paughco pipe and muffler (eliminated the squish in the pipe) Running a pogo seat for now with 18" Apes, just a nice mello cruser, not a light hunter by any means. Mechanical Drum breakes front and rear, that is why not a lot of go. Gotta work out some bugs, but Almost there!

Does that adjustment sound right?

Thanks