hi sweden calling
it's me with the rusty Roadking again
finnally my mate took apart my wheels so I could have them rechromeplated , incidentally the rims are aluminium, the owner of the chromeoutfit said that he could de-plate my hub and the rim but no way was he going to rechromeplate it because it's more or less impossible to guarantee a lasting result
How right he is, Harley doesn't even guarantee it when told about my disagreement with H-D Sweden he shook his head and asked what they based their opinion about the chrome falling of due to neglect on my pics said I then he laughed and told about all the halrey stuff that he has to replate
so there you know beware of plated aluminium rims.
especially if you're going to use the bike anywhere else but the interior of the Sahara desert.
By the way any hints on how to preserve the shine once the rims are polished aluminium?
ideas will be appreciated the best will be toasted on x-mas eve
cheerio
Last edited by rattis; 12-13-2007 at 02:10 PM.
Reason: hit the wrong button hadn't finished writing
Chromed Aluminium has always been a problem. But Harley's seems to be better than a lot of after market. The problem with chroming aluminium is that oxidation is very fast and very severe. Sometimes you will see bubbling from the start. In the prep and chromming a small tiny bit of oxidation started, usually from pre oxidation or the integrity of the surface being comprimised. This will allow the surface to oxidize under the chrome which will most likely bubble at first and then peel. Any little nick or scrach can start oxidation underneath that can continue without notice untl one large section just falls off. I'm not saying that aluminium can't stay looking nice for a very long time but it's usually not so much the chromming job but the nature of natural occurences. Sure, any corrosive environment like on the coast where I live is worse for aluminium and of course chrome plated steel. But fighting it has to be a way of life. Neverlet chrome plated steel develop a pit, andalways fight to keep a coating over pin point breaks in aluminium the best you can to help oxidation from developing as long as possible. From my stand point chromed steel is by far easier than aluminium in my salt air environment than aluminium. Aluminium will sneak up on ya overnight and one day it looks fine, the next it looks like a snake shedding it's skin.
excellent wish Harley knew as well
any hints on how to preserve the nice polished shine of alu?
UV-resistant clear topcoat was suggested to me
they'll be nice and shiny i'll have all x-mas to polish
although I'd rather have Harley stand up and take responsibility for what they sold me.
They actually sent me a mail in which they promised that they would look into my little problem but the it seems as if They have "forgotten" me and the word keeps spreading and I'll do my best to keep on doing it
Rattis
I have an '04 Dyna Low Rider & up until a couple of months ago, I was running the stock H-D front end w/clear coated lower fork tubes. Over time I guess sand & gravel from other vehicles started to pit the clear coat and before I knew it, corrosion had started underneath the clear coat, the fork tubes looked like h***, & there wasn't anything I could do about it. If only the clear coat weren't there, I believe I could keep on top of raw aluminum.
Anyway, I decided to replace the lower fork tubes w/H-D chromed tubes. They're on now & look fantastic, but I'm wondering if I'm going to regret my decision as the same phenomenon begins to occur on the chomed tubes. I've kept my old tubes and plan to strip off the clear coat in case I need to reinstall them & run raw aluminum.
Any tips y'all can share on maintaining my new chromed tubes, how best to strip & polish my old ones, etc. will be greatly appreciated.
Well, polishing aluminum is a never ending battle. With Semi-Chrome paste, Mother's aluminium polish, or many too numerous to list you can get a chrome like shine on aluminum. The problem is the surface oxidation turn it gray in a short time so it's not a polish once and forget. It's a lot of work keeping aluminum shiny. Some accessory manufacturers of wheels and parts put a coating over them which last for a few years. The problem with this is that small nicks expose the underneath surface vulnerable to oxidation then when a spot starts there is no way to get under the coating to do any thing about it. It's kind of like the coating used on the stock satin finish on the front lower sliders. Once a rock causes a nick you end up with a larger blemish from underneath the coating as it oxidizes. There's no easy solution but a lot of work to keep it looking pretty.
I have an '04 Dyna Low Rider & up until a couple of months ago, I was running the stock H-D front end w/clear coated lower fork tubes. Over time I guess sand & gravel from other vehicles started to pit the clear coat and before I knew it, corrosion had started underneath the clear coat, the fork tubes looked like h***, & there wasn't anything I could do about it. If only the clear coat weren't there, I believe I could keep on top of raw aluminum.
Anyway, I decided to replace the lower fork tubes w/H-D chromed tubes. They're on now & look fantastic, but I'm wondering if I'm going to regret my decision as the same phenomenon begins to occur on the chomed tubes. I've kept my old tubes and plan to strip off the clear coat in case I need to reinstall them & run raw aluminum.
Any tips y'all can share on maintaining my new chromed tubes, how best to strip & polish my old ones, etc. will be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks.
John B.
LOL...you posted as I was typing my post above talking about the coating on lowers. I too have replaced my lowers on bikes with chrome ones for the same reason. The chrome will look better much longer than the coating on the stock sliders. The chrome does nick and over many years it will have small little chips flake off...but keeping a wax over them seems to help prevent exposure and will look good a long time. The places I've seem the chrome shed first is at the lower axel holes with stress from wrenching on them at that point. I think you'll be happy with them for years.
On a side note, I hate continually polishing the brake and clutch aluminum stocklevers so I always replace with chrome aluminum. But, small rock chips eventually get them and they end up with mini spots that flake off. So, I end up replacing them every couple of years. That's why I buy the less expensive ones now and don't spend so much on the Harley ones since they will do the same thing.
Also, with your comment on stripping and polishing your old sliders....they are not a great grade of aluminum and they really don't take a polishing like you would think. Just sayin
LOL...you posted as I was typing my post above talking about the coating on lowers. I too have replaced my lowers on bikes with chrome ones for the same reason. The chrome will look better much longer than the coating on the stock sliders. The chrome does nick and over many years it will have small little chips flake off...but keeping a wax over them seems to help prevent exposure and will look good a long time. The places I've seem the chrome shed first is at the lower axel holes with stress from wrenching on them at that point. I think you'll be happy with them for years.
On a side note, I hate continually polishing the brake and clutch aluminum stocklevers so I always replace with chrome aluminum. But, small rock chips eventually get them and they end up with mini spots that flake off. So, I end up replacing them every couple of years. That's why I buy the less expensive ones now and don't spend so much on the Harley ones since they will do the same thing.
Also, with your comment on stripping and polishing your old sliders....they are not a great grade of aluminum and they really don't take a polishing like you would think. Just sayin
LOL right back atcha, FifthGear! Guess it's true what they say 'bout great minds, right?
Re my old stock tubes, I'm thinking I may as well go ahead & try to strip them down to raw metal - will make a good winter project out in ol' Harley's heated garage. Any ideas on what to use to strip off the clear coat? My first thought is Zip Strip paint stripper followed by steel wool & emery cloth ending up with not a gloss but more of a satin patina.
I am not sure what the coating material is so I'm not sure what stripper would be best. The only way I've tried what you are think of was to sand it off with electric sanders and dremel disks and drums and then polish with buffing wheel and compound and using dremel rotory tool for the tight spots. What I was disappointed in was the places that seemed to be rough spots in the casting (like little holes) and the fact that it just wouldn't shine like some aluminum accessories I was used to dealing with. I think the satin machined look on them is for good reason...it covers up a lot LOL
I am not sure what the coating material is so I'm not sure what stripper would be best. The only way I've tried what you are think of was to sand it off with electric sanders and dremel disks and drums and then polish with buffing wheel and compound and using dremel rotory tool for the tight spots. What I was disappointed in was the places that seemed to be rough spots in the casting (like little holes) and the fact that it just wouldn't shine like some aluminum accessories I was used to dealing with. I think the satin machined look on them is for good reason...it covers up a lot LOL
I'm thinking maybe gloss black to match the frame of my '04 Low Rider.
Good idea? If so, should I still strip down or simply pass on as is to the painter?
to chrome or not to chrome 
H-D Chrome Front Fork Tubes 
Linear Mode
