Got a problem with your stock H-D that your local dealer can’t fix? Well, put away that hammer, grab a pen, and let our resident pro get you back on the road! That’s right, frustrated ones. You can now get your perplexing problem answered with a simple snail mail or e-mail to AIM the #1 selling Harley magazine
www.aimag.com.
Kicking off Helpline this month is Barry Van Camp from Indiana, who writes in explaining that his 2001 Ultra Classic has an annoying case of the blinks. Ya think that’s a signal of things to come? Stan Smith follows, expressing a primary concern he’s having with his 2006 Dyna. Then we have Internet James telling us about the wobble he’s dealing with aboard his ’97 Springer. If you think that’s bad, Gary in Pennsylvania is grumbling about the tach issues with his 2004 Deuce, and poor Gary Stanfield is all broken up about the brakes on his 1999 FXDX. But wait! There’s more! Jay Tuttle, the consummate road warrior and he of the 2001 FLHR, has posed the question, “To buy or not to buy.” And we close the show with the Invisible Man inquiring about a service manual for his 1990 Heritage Classic.
Anyone wishing to submit a question to our H-D expert should send in as much info about the problem and bike as possible, which definitely includes the bike’s year, model, and mileage, to Hog Helpline, c/o American Iron Magazine, 1010 Summer Street, Stamford, CT 06905, or e-mail it to
ChrisM@AmericanIronMag.com. Ready for the disclaimer? Unfortunately, we can’t answer all of the questions that we receive or respond directly to the submitter, owing to volume. Select questions will be answered only through this monthly column.
Q: I have a 2001 Ultra Classic that I bought used in 2003. The previous owner had installed leather wrapped grips on it. I found that when I rode in hot weather, the grips would get slippery and it was hard to keep a steady speed with them. I replaced the grips with rubber ones, but as I was putting the controls back on, I crimped a wire for the turn signals enough to blow a fuse. I replaced the fuse and fixed the wiring issue, but now every time I turn on the ignition, the signals blink six times; I assume this is a fault code, probably in the turn signal module. Is there any way I can clear this code without going to the dealer and without spending lots of cash for a laptop and specialized software?
Barry Van Camp
Avon, Indiana
A: If the turn signals flash six four-way flashes shortly after key on, it indicates an error code has been logged sometime in the last three ignition cycles. The security lamp will also light for eight seconds if you have security. The security lamp will stay on if current codes are set. If a historic code is present, the security lamp will light for 50 ignition cycles or until the code is cleared manually. If a particular problem is resolved, the active status problem is dropped, and it becomes a historic code rather than a current code. For example, intermittent output shorts can become typical historic codes. Historic codes are stored for 50 ignition cycles after any code was last set as current to assist in the diagnosis of intermittent faults. On the 50th cycle, the code will clear itself. If the lamps still flash after 50 cycles, you’ll have to double check your repairs and look for other problems.
Q: I just had the inner primary bearing on my 2006 Dyna replaced at 12,000 miles. Harley had me sign a letter stating that I would replace this at 15,000 miles, and, a year later, H-D told me everything was okay, that the unit did not need to be replaced. Just thought people should know. My dealer did replace this free of charge.
Stan Smith
Via Internet
A: The engineers at Harley wanted to monitor the wear on certain parts on the new Cruise Drive transmission. They told 2006 Dyna owners to bring their bikes back at 15,000 miles to have that bearing replaced free of charge. After enough of these bikes came back with no problems, they decided this replacement was not necessary. As you said, everything was okay. At that time, the factory also wanted the oil in the six-speed transmission changed more often. Now, with the Formula Plus lubricant, the service interval is up to 20,000 miles. Personally I’d change the transmission oil at 5,000 miles or least once a year.
Q: I ride a 1997 Heritage Springer. It has a terrible (and dangerous) wobble right at 40 mph, and it starts if I loosen my grip on the bars. The bike didn’t have this problem when I bought it. I don’t recall changing anything before it started, and the dealer mechanics can’t find anything.
James J.
Via Internet
A: Have you ever had the steering bearings checked? Your Springer fork tends to be harder on the bearings than a hydraulic fork. With its age, I’ll assume you have more than 10,000 miles on the bike. If so, you probably need new bearings. If you can, raise the front wheel off the ground and swing the fork back and forth. It should swing smoothly with no binding and should drop away from center on its own. If the fork hangs in any position, the bearings are notched and need to be replaced. Also, check the lower rocker adjustment. The rocker bearings need to have the correct amount of drag, and they need to be equal to each other. Improper adjustments will cause handling problems and accelerated steering bearing wear.
Q: I hope you wizards will be able to help me. My horse is a 2004 (carbureted) Softail Deuce which runs absolutely perfect, thanks to a new set of pipes and a Mikuni HSR42 carb, intake, and air cleaner. With 20,000 miles on the meter and lots of chrome, life is good. I am a real fanatic when it comes to maintenance and keeping an eye on the drivetrain: new spark plugs every year, and all Mobil 1 oils and K&N oil filters changed every 2,500 miles. I also installed an oil temperature gauge, oil pressure gauge, oil cooler, Badlands Illuminator run, brake, and turn signal module with an LED license plate brake light and have an H-D factory-installed alarm system.
To keep an even closer watch on my bike, I’d like to see how many rpm it runs at. No one, H-D dealers included, can tell me how to wire a tachometer onto a 2004 Twin Cam Deuce. Everyone has looked at the wiring diagrams, and there is no tach feed wire coming from the ignition module for a Deuce. Does the change in H-D coil setup in 2004 have anything to do with a tach hook up? Should I be looking for a single- or dual-fire tach, and where would I wire it to? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Gary Grumble
Hawley, Pennsylvania
A: The tachometer signal source is the number three cavity in the connector on the back of the speedometer. The rpm data is sent to the speedometer via the serial data bus from the ECU. You’ll need to have a tachometer that can interpret the serial signals. Harley offers a few different styles of tachometers that will fit your motorcycle and should fit your taste. The kits come complete with all the special connectors and wiring that you’ll need, along with very specific instructions.
Q: The rear brakes on my 1999 FXDX (with 18,000 miles) are starting to squeak, so I decided to change the brake pads. The problem is, I can't get the caliper off. The piston appears to be hanging onto the retaining pin. I tried to push the piston back into the caliper, as it suggests in the manual, but had no luck. Are there any tricks you may know of?
Greg Stanfield
Via Internet
A: If the pads are worn badly enough, the piston will come out farther than it should and get cocked in its bore. The piston will hang up and not be easily pushed back. I’ve found that a long 3/8” coarse threaded bolt or stud (I use an old Evo cylinder stud) screwed into the caliper mounting hole will give you the leverage to rock the caliper and realign the piston in its bore. When the piston aligns properly, it will push right back in to give you the clearance needed to remove the caliper. Make sure your master cylinder isn’t overfull, as this will keep the piston from moving back easily. Take the lid off, but be sure to leave a rag or pan under it; fluid will spill over as the piston pushes the fluid back to the master cylinder.
Q: I bought a 2001 FLHR new, and have 100,000 miles on it. It’s carbureted and stock except for the Stage 1 K&N air filter and Bartel mufflers. I have always used H-D fossil oil (no oil cooler) with regular dealer service. At 55,000 miles, the bike had a top end job; I was using 1 qt/1,700 miles. Up until the top end job, I was changing oil at 5,000 miles. Since then, I’ve been changing the oil every 2,500 miles. I replaced valves, rings, pistons, 88” cylinders, primary and secondary cam chains, tensioners, sprockets, cam bearings, and the O rings in the oil pump. At 81,000 miles, one valve lifter was leaking down and making noise on start up, so I replaced all four lifters, cam bearings, and cam tensioners. I was told that everything else the techs could readily check looked good.
I would like a little more acceleration power; all my riding is solo on the highway -- 65-70 mph, typically averaging 200+ miles in a given day’s ride. I have been pondering the following options: buy a new Road King or do a reman on my existing engine, then upgrade to a 95”. Bottom-line consideration: is a new bike ($25K) or upgrade ($7K) a better option? Is a new bike worth the [estimated] $18K difference? I have been wrestling with these options ever since the 2007s came out.
Jay Tuttle
Houston, Texas
A: Have you ridden a new 96-incher yet, Jay? If not, get to your dealer for a demo ride or go and rent a new Road King for the weekend. I really have to believe your decision will be made by the time you get back. You’ll get all the oomph you want, plus the advantage of the six-speed for your long Texas cruises without having to rebuild a new engine. You’ll also get the added bonus of a two-year unlimited miles warranty. See what the trade-in value of your bike is. Make a deal for a new bike, and all you’ll have to decide on is the color. All that’s left for you to do is put on the miles. It’s easy for me to spend your money, but I definitely think a new motorcycle is always worth it!
Q: I have a 1990 Heritage Classic and I want to buy a repair manual .The guys at the Harley shop don't know which one to order and they said it was my call. But if I order the wrong one, I’m stuck with it.
Name withheld
Via Internet
A: The service manual you’re looking for is Part # 99482-90. This manual will cover Softail models from 1985-90. The guys at your Harley shop should have this information right at their fingertips. The Factory offers a service literature catalog for reference. This catalog provides part numbers for all literature currently available from Harley-Davidson Service Communications.
June 2008 
Linear Mode
