Got a problem with your stock H-D that your local dealer can’t fix? Well, put away that hammer, grab a pen, and let our resident pro get you back on the road! That’s right, frustrated ones. You can now get your perplexing problem answered with a simple snail mail or e-mail to AIM the #1 selling Harley magazine
www.aimag.com.
Another plethora of problems in this month’s Hog Helpline kicks off with Ohio’s Dave Blackmore, who is a bit tense about the tensioner issues he’s experiencing. Ken Boyd’s ’96 Electra Glide Classic is taking him for a ride with a pesky throttle. Better not sit idle with that one, Ken. Internet Mark and his 2007 Ultra step up to plate next, asking for deliverance from a squealing front brake. We’re hoping he appreciates our suggested solution, as well as the brilliant cinematic reference. Michigan’s own Dwight Fackender has his chaps in a twist about the unsightly brake dust on his 2004 FLHRCI’s whitewalls. Last and certainly not least, we hear from New Mexico’s Williams Dokianos who’s perplexed by the divergent fuel economy between his current 2003 FXDP and his previous 1984 FLHP.
Anyone wishing to submit a question to our H-D expert should send in as much info about the problem and bike as possible, which definitely includes the bike’s year, model, and mileage, to Hog Helpline, c/o American Iron Magazine, 1010 Summer Street, Stamford, CT 06905, or e-mail it to
ChrisM@AmericanIronMag.com. Ready for the disclaimer? Unfortunately, we can’t answer all of the questions that we receive or respond directly to the submitter, owing to volume. Select questions will be answered only through this monthly column.
Q: On the topic of Andrews roller chain conversion for 1999-’07 Twin Cams, and other cam drive components, I own an FL and have followed the feedback from H-D, riders, mechanics, and magazines on cam-bearing failures, cam-chain-tensioner wear, and other component dependability problems. My bike is ridden mostly two-up, all weather, cross-country and around town. It was stock with 22,000 miles on it when slip-ons, air cleaner, jets, and cams were added. I was going to go with a gear drive for the cams, when I read an article by Donny on roller chain conversion using ’07 Dyna parts and an Andrews cam kit. I talked to Andrews’ techs before deciding on the chain conversion. My friend and I did the install, and it was pretty straight forward using H-D’s ’07 Dyna manual and the instructions that come with the Andrews parts. Be sure you order the correct cams (different journal sizes) and the full range of shim sizes from H-D. The bike has 25,000 miles on it, runs well, and pulls much better when loaded. The conversion to a roller chain and hydraulic tensioners is a little cheaper than going to a gear setup, and for a modest performance upgrade, I’m pleased with it.
However, upon inspection of the original parts, the chain tensioners showed unacceptable wear, and the original cams showed more wear on the lobes than we were expecting. The 2007 Dyna support plate without bushings, and lack of bushings in the tappet bores, bothers me. I have since found out that H-D offers a Screamin’ Eagle billet support plate for 2008s with bushings (at a considerable cost over my Dyna support plate), as do other aftermarket suppliers. Has H-D reconsidered letting cam journals ride as parent material in its newer production Twin Cams? Have you heard of any problems related to lack of bushings in tappet bores? I didn’t see anything in the owner’s manual’s recommended-maintenance schedule about tensioners and support plates, but I think I’ll still plan on checking mine in another 15,000-20,000 miles
Dave Blackmore
Medina, Ohio
A: Harley did not reconsider its cam supports for 2008. We haven’t seen any problems with this system in stock, big-inch conversions or the Screamin’ Eagle bikes. Harley’s been running tappets in parent material since the five-speed Sportster in 1991. I’ve never seen a Sportster crankcase worn out. Remember, the cams aren’t actually running on the aluminum cam plate. They’re running on a film of oil. The key is to keep the oil clean -- that is, regular maintenance. The tensioners are made of a better material, and the new chain should be easier on the tensioner’s shoe. That said, your cam cover is fairly easily removed, so make that tensioner inspection part of your 20,000 mile service.
Q: I have a 1996 Electra Glide Classic with no engine modifications except for dealer-installed exhaust pipes when the bike was brand new. It now has only 7,550 miles on it. The problem is that a short time after it warms up, the throttle kicks in and the bike accelerates by itself. It happens randomly; sometimes while I’m riding at a steady speed, or sitting at a traffic light. It lasts from a few seconds to always less than a minute. The brakes don’t easily hold it, and I often grab the clutch, but the rpm soar. I’ve had it back to the dealer twice (the same dealership where I have had all the work done). The first time in, the cables were lubricated. The second time, the sensors were checked, and everything registered okay. A friend suggested a leak in the intake manifold, as it may expand when it gets warm. Any ideas?
Ken Boyd
Via Internet
A: Definitely check for intake leaks as they will certainly make the idle speed erratic. I would also look into the Idle Speed Controller on the induction module. The ISC can become sticky and not return to the correct position, holding the throttle plate open and causing the high idle. The ECM is sending the correct information, but the mechanical ISC can’t get where it needs to be. A new, properly adjusted ISC should correct the problem.
Q: I purchased my 2007 Ultra new, and from the first day complained about the front brake squealing at low speeds. The bike has been back to the dealer eight times for the same reason. Here’s what’s been done, with no remedy: changed brake pads, calipers and rotors; packed the wheel with some sort of Styrofoam; checked the upgraded, spoked wheel to ensure it was not out of round; switched the right and left brake rotors; and changed out the master cylinder. I talked to H-D in Milwaukee and was told there is nothing further that the dealer will do, as long as the bike stops properly. Now, the noise is louder, and I believe the braking is not what it should be. I returned the bike to the dealer one week ago and it’s still there, waiting for the local factory rep to take a look at it. I suggested the front wheel be changed (and all the brake components), but was told that H-D will not let the dealer techs do that. I also suggested they give me the stock wheels in place of my $500 upgrades, and they won’t do that either.
Mark
Via Internet
A: What upgraded wheels do you have installed? Is it possible the wheel spacing and/or rotor locations are not correct? If the wheel is made wrong, or not properly positioned between the forks, the brakes can drag slightly and cause overheating and noises. Also, check the fender mounts and any trim that’s attached to the fender. If something is slightly loose, the normal vibrations of the brake can make the loose part vibrate also. The large fender can act as an amplifier, causing the squealing noise you’re hearing.
Q: Now that I’ve gotten used to the wide whitewalls on my 2004 FLHRCI, I want to keep them decent looking. I have changed the rear brake pads twice, and now have a Metzeler rear tire. Everything else out back is stock. The pads are Harley-Davidson. My problem is brake dust all over the right-side whitewall. What can I do to correct this? Is there another pad I can use with my stock rotor that won’t cause this problem?
Dwight Fackender
Onsted, Michigan
A: The only way to correct this problem is to keep washing those whitewalls! Your brakes work from friction, and this friction wears away the pad material. Where do you think the brake pad goes when it wears out? Check inside your car’s wheels. You’ll see the same thing. Any pad that stops your bike will wear and cause dust. Any pad that doesn’t make dust is probably too hard and won’t stop the bike. Let’s see, dirty whitewall or bent front end? I’ll get the cleaner and brush.
Q: I’ve been puzzled by this question ever since I purchased my 2003 FXDP and sold my 1984 FLHP. Why has my mileage decreased from 50 mpg on the ’84 to 42 mpg on the ’03, despite riding in the same speed range? My 1984 Evo was stock with the exception of slip-on mufflers, a change from the original butterfly-style Keihen to the later-model slide Keihen carb with a Thunderslide kit, and the addition of a free-flowing air filter. This ’84 had a five-speed transmission, enclosed rear chain drive, and police windshield. The bike weighed approximately 725 pounds and consistently delivered 50 mpg when running 50-70 mph. My 2003 FXDP was purchased new and is stock with a few exceptions: a Thunderslide kit added to the Keihen carb, a Doherty free-flowing air filter, and stock mufflers replaced with Screamin’ Eagle slip-ons. The bike is running with a police windshield and weighs approximately 650-670 pounds. From day one, this bike delivered 42 mpg when running 50-70 mph, regardless of the modifications.
Why such a change in mileage? The Twin Cam is lighter and has a larger engine. However, it should not have to work as hard as the Evo to power the bike in the 50-70 mph speed range. My guesses are either the Twin Cam is timed to meet emissions (and sacrifices fuel efficiency), or the heads are inefficient for the engine displacement, and the engine works harder to deliver the power.
William Dokianos
Alto, New Mexico
A: The bigger engine is going to use more fuel. You’re moving heavier pistons, heavier flywheels, and a heavier cam assembly. It’s gonna use more fuel. If you try tuning the carburetor for better mileage, you might get a couple of miles per gallon back.
August 2008 
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