Oct 2008 - Electronics & More - Harley Forum

Buzz Kanter · #1 12-17-2008, 09:46 AM

Regs, Heads, Temps, Speedos and more

Got a problem with your stock H-D that your local dealer can’t fix? Well, put away that hammer, grab a pen, and let our resident pro get you back on the road! That’s right, frustrated ones. You can now get your perplexing problem answered with a simple snail mail or e-mail to AIM.

We begin this installment of Hog Helpline with Brad Desabrais from up yonder across the border. Brad’s looking for advice on salvaging the VIN from his 2003 Road King Classic, after the bike hit the deck. No worries Brad, it’s doable. Long live the King! Next, we have Bird Dog barking about the idle speed on his 1997 FLHTCUI, but we’ve got it covered. Brian Payton
in Georgia follows with an inquiry about the annoying squeak coming from his 2002 Ultra Classic. Take it from us, Brian. It ain’t mice. Then we have Internet Tim, who is tired of sending online questions to various cycle rags, and wants to spend his quality time redoing a 2002 Twin Cam B instead. And finally, poor Frank Sparano in Florida is going through brake light switches on his 2004 Deuce with no light at the end of the tunnel.

Anyone wishing to submit a question to our H-D expert should send in as much info about the problem and bike as possible, which definitely includes the bike’s year, model, and mileage, to Hog Helpline, c/o American Iron Magazine, 1010 Summer Street, Stamford, CT 06905, or e-mail it to ChrisM@AmericanIronMag.com. Ready for the disclaimer? Unfortunately, we can’t answer all of the questions that we receive or respond directly to the submitter, owing to volume. Select questions will be answered only through this monthly column.

Q: I have a 2003 100th Anniversary Road King Classic that was just in an accident. The bike has a bent frame and will be written off, but I’d really like to keep this bike because it’s a 100th Anniversary model. I’ve heard that if I cut the downtube and send the serial number to Harley-Davidson, it can be attached to a new frame, thus keeping the matching numbers. Is this true?
Brad Desabrais
Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada

A: Yes, you have to send the section of the frame with the number on it back to the factory. But it won’t be attached to the new frame. H-D will send you a new frame with your number stamped on the neck. The original frame headstock that contains the vehicle identification number (VIN), along with a minimum of 12" of the front downtubes, and 12" of the backbone from the headstock must be returned. You need to send the section of frame back to the Factory so it can be verified that there is only one frame out there with your VIN on it.

Q: I recently bought a 1997 FLHTCUI with only 30,000 miles. It has the notoriously problematic first generation Magnetti-Marelli injection. When riding in temperatures below 42 degrees Fahrenheit, the engine, when warm, idles anywhere from 1400-3200 rpm. At warmer ambient temps (55 degrees and up), the idle is fine. I’ve set and reset cold/hot idle more than once, pulled the ECM fuses for up to 30 minutes, found no vacuum leaks, checked all sensor connectors, and I’ve replaced the engine temp sensor. I also confirmed that the idle air control is against the throttle linkage during these conditions, and the idle corrects as the IAC steps back. If I let the bike run at this extremely high idle for a couple of minutes (in cold weather), the idle will eventually come down in steps. I don’t want to keep throwing parts at it, but I’m thinking that maybe the intake air temp sensor could be the culprit. Dealer techs have not offered much help, except several agreed it might be the ETS (which it wasn’t). I’ve been fixing my own and others’ Harleys for 20 years, and I can’t bring myself to pay $85 an hour to a dealer, unless it’s absolutely necessary. Any help would be appreciated.
Bird Dog
Via Internet

A: How did you go about setting the cold idle position of the throttle plate? The ECM sets the throttle plate to a park position by moving the idle speed controller. The ISC moves the throttle plate from that position, in mechanical steps, for the proper cold idle speed according to signals from the ECM. If the park position isn’t set correctly in the first place, the ISC steps will position the throttle plate incorrectly and the cold idle speed will be wrong. You need to set this park position by reading the voltage on the TPS and setting it to the correct value. Your dealer’s diagnostic computer can read this voltage without damaging any associated wiring or connectors. Now, after checking and setting the TPS, you may find that a worn and sticking ISC will give you the same symptoms. The intake air temp sensor may also be bad, but the dealer should be able to see this on the computer. You may find that a competent tech’s rate is cheaper than experimenting and guessing at what parts to change.

Q: My 2002 Ultra Classic shows 26,531 miles, and has a 1550 conversion kit. There’s a loud squeak coming from final drive. I sprayed silicone on belt and the squeak stopped for several miles. I’ve been to three dealerships; everybody tells me it’s the belt tension. So far, adjusting tension only varies when the belt squeaks. Loosened, the belt squeaks when I let off the throttle. Tightened, the belt squeaks when applying throttle. With the bike on a jack, turning wheel forward, the belt tracks to about the center of the front pulley and to the outside of the rear pulley. The tension adjustment cams are against the stops, so maybe the rear wheel is running true. Any ideas?
Brian Payton
Trion, Georgia

A: Check the hard-face surface on the teeth of the rear pulley. Also, look for hooking of the teeth or uneven wear on the tops of the teeth. If the teeth are worn out, the belt can make noise and applying the silicone will quiet it temporarily. If the bike was run in dusty or muddy conditions, dirt will collect on the belt and grind into the pulley. Add some water, and the dirt acts like lapping compound, eating right through the hard surface. It may be time for a new belt and sprockets, and make sure your belt guards are installed properly.

Q: I’m looking to redo a tired 2002 Twin Cam B motor. I’d like to know the best way to strip the factory coating on cases by myself (chemical strippers, bead blasting?). I’d also like a recommendation for a durable paint I can apply by myself, as opposed to sending it out to get powdercoated.
Tim
Via Internet

A: Any good paint stripper will get you started, but you’ll need a blaster to finish the job properly. Find someone with plastic media as this won’t damage the cases. After blasting, I recommend ultrasonic cleaning to be sure all of the blast media is shaken out of the nooks and crannies. As far as a durable paint, I think powdercoat is best, and Harley’s is usually pretty good. Have you considered a reman engine? You’ll get all brand new parts and finishing, and a warranty. You’ll also be surprised at how cost effective it is. Go ask your dealer before you go too far.

Q: I’m having a problem with my 2004 Deuce that the dealer can’t fix. It involves the rear brake light switch. I bought this bike from a used-bike dealer last July, so I don’t know its full history, but I have gone through six rear brake light switches in less than a year. The first three, H-D replaced, only charging for the first one. The last three, I replaced myself. The part costs about $20 and took about a minute to replace. I don’t know what is making these things last for just a few weeks, but I’m thinking the brake fluid is eating away at the switch.
Frank Sparano
Pembroke Pines, Florida

A: You say that it only takes a minute to replace. Are you sure you’re getting all the air out of the system? The switch operates on the pressure of the brake system, so if a small bubble of air works its way back to the switch, it won’t work. The volume of air may be very small, so you may not notice any problem with the brake. Next time the switch fails, try bleeding the system thoroughly.