Nov 2008

[Buzz Kanter]

ELECTRONICS AND MORE

Got a problem with your stock H-D that your local dealer can’t fix? Well, put away that hammer, grab a pen, and let our resident pro get you back on the road! That’s right, frustrated ones. You can now get your perplexing problem answered with a simple snail mail or e-mail to AIM.

Lots to discuss in this installment of Double H, as we kick off with Internet Roy Hoffman and his Softail Custom. Seems that the bike’s regulator is feeling a bit irregular. We have the solution, and it ain’t a high fiber diet. In the on-deck circle is James from Missouri inquiring about the wireless connection on his 2006 Ultra Classic, and Gamblin that we’ll have the answer. Good bet, James! Internet Jim Custis checks in next, explaining that his 2004 Road King is leaning to the left. Sorry Jim, but you know our rule about discussing politics at the dinner table. Another ’Net man, Chris Bishop, is having some headlight trouble with his 2001 Electra Glide Classic. We’d be tempted to say that Chris isn’t too bright with a bad lamp, but that would be kicking him while he’s down. No worries, Chris, we’ve offered up our diagnosis. And finally, let’s roll the credits with Internet Bob Heylman and his shiny new ’08 Road King. Bob’s got a question about his ABS, to which we say, “Them’s the brakes, Bob.”

Anyone wishing to submit a question to our H-D expert should send in as much info about the problem and bike as possible, which definitely includes the bike’s year, model, and mileage, to Hog Helpline, c/o American Iron Magazine, 1010 Summer Street, Stamford, CT 06905, or e-mail it to Untitled Document. Ready for the disclaimer? Unfortunately, we can’t answer all of the questions that we receive or respond directly to the submitter, owing to volume. Select questions will be answered only through this monthly column.

Q: My Softail Custom’s voltage regulator is putting out a constant 13.2 volts. When I turn on my headlight, the battery voltage drops from 12.85 to a discharge state. The alternator is at 45 AC output. Any help would be appreciated.
Roy Hoffman
Via Internet

A: Before you do anything, check to see that you have continuity between the two pins coming from the stator. Then check that neither one is shorted to ground. If the stator passes those two tests, check that the AC voltage from the alternator continues to rise as the rpm goes up. You should see 60 or 70 volts AC without over-revving the engine. If so, the problem is in the regulator. Before changing it, check that it has a good connection to chassis ground. The voltage at the battery should go to almost 14 volts or higher, depending on the year and charging system of your bike.


Q: I have a 2006 Ultra Classic with the H-D brand Bluetooth module, installed (by the dealer). It wirelessly connects to my cell phone, and then operates as a selection through the radio (AM, FM, CD, WB, TELE) and can be used through the headset just like any other radio selection. When I select any of the first four choices (AM, FM, CD, or WB), which are original equipment, I can adjust the volume to the max, and it’s very loud in the headset. When I select the TELE choice and adjust the volume on the TELE module to the max, the volume is not as loud. I’m aware that the Bluetooth module does have a separate volume adjustment in the radio (as does the CB and intercom) and I’ve adjusted it to the max. I’ve been to the dealer and the tech’s guess is that it’s normal. However, the level of volume is significantly less for the TELE selection than the original equipment selections. It’s most notable when traveling at higher speeds. I’m aware of the volume control for automatically adjusting up at higher speeds and have it set to the max. Does the Bluetooth module have its own separate audio amp circuit, or is there something wrong with it? How should the dealer check it? Also, does anyone make a better helmet headset with more powerful speakers for the helmet? I have tried two different H-D headsets, and both are distorted with popping and cracking as the volume increases.
James Gamblin
Raymore, Missouri

A: Have you checked that your phone is compatible with the Harley Bluetooth module? The Harley web site has a list of phones that will work with the H-D system. It’s possible the output level of your phone is just not high enough to drive the module to the volume you want. As for the headset, I don’t know of anyone that makes a headset with the DIN connector that Harley uses. The headset connector is also used for microphone and intercom wiring, hence the extra wires and big plug. If you’re creative, the Service Manual has a pin out diagram of the DIN wiring that you could use to make an adapter harness to plug in a standard set of higher-quality headphones or earbuds. To be honest though, I’ve always found the H-D headset to be more than adequate as long as the bass control isn’t set too high. After all, you’re on a motorcycle!


Q: I have a problem with my 2004 Road King leaning to the left. I bought this bike used last year. At that time, it had 20,000 miles, and it now has 27,000 miles. Since I’ve had the bike, it’s had a slight lean, but there are no other problems, like wobbles or shakes. In fact, the bike runs great and is a pleasure to drive, as long as I keep a slight bit of pressure on the right handgrip. As soon as I let go of the handlebars, the bike starts to lean and go into a gentle turn to the left. This occurs at all speeds. I’ve had it to several mechanics and tried to track down the problem. Initially, I had the tires replaced, with no change. I had the front forks opened with new seals and fluid, with no change. I took it to the local dealer and described the problem; he did a complete alignment, charged me $300, and never found a problem. I then took the bike to an H-D certified mechanic, who checked the alignment of the rear tire to the front tire and found it normal. All the alignment points and rear shocks were checked, then rechecked, and found to be normal. A 1/8" spacer washer was placed in the left front fork, which slightly improved the lean, but did not resolve the problem.

An online search revealed a message board where several people talked about having this same problem, many since their bikes were new. Is there something that we’re missing that could cause this lean? Is this a common (or an uncommon, but real) problem with Road Kings? Is there a solution or way to resolve this issue with an aftermarket product or fix?
Jim Custis
Via Internet

A: First off, I’d like to paraphrase the Motor Company by saying that a motorcycle isn’t designed to go straight, and probably won’t when you take your hands off the bars. The factory claims that a couple of pounds of pressure on either end of the bar to keep it straight is normal. I’ve also had to deal with bikes that tend to drift to one side or the other, only to find that nothing is out of place with anything on the chassis or drivetrain.

Now, after all that, you may be able to make some adjustments to minimize the drift. Do you have laced wheels on the bike? Are the rims offset to the proper specs? If the rims aren’t in the right place in relation to the hubs, the alignment can’t be right. The other variable is the alignment of the engine and drivetrain in the chassis. This can be changed by changing the length of the front stabilizer. Moving the front of the engine will point the rear wheel off to the side slightly and cause the bike to track differently. A little experimenting may produce an improvement. Stay within the factory tolerance, and remember to readjust the front engine mount and top stabilizer whenever you change the front one. Another thing to consider is vehicle loading. What do you have in the saddlebags? Large tool bag, security chain, 16 pairs of your lady’s shoes? A little change in the distribution of your load will do wonders for vehicle handling.


Q: I'm sure this subject has probably come up before, but I'm going to give it a shot. I have a 2001 Electra Glide Classic headlight which has a problem. Every fall, the headlight collects moisture to the point of either fogging the lens, or having water in the casing. I’ve pulled the bucket and removed the bulb, then cleaned the interior for another year’s use. I understand the left two gauges collecting moisture on a cold morning is normal, but the issue with the headlight is not, as far as I know. I’ll deal with it as necessary, but would prefer to have a cure. Got any ideas?
Chris Bishop
Via Internet

A: Make sure the rubber boot on the back of the lamp housing is making a good seal to the housing and the bulb. The boot may have deteriorated and cracked, allowing moisture and dust inside. Also be sure the lamp glass itself is still sealed. Take the bulb out and immerse the lamp in water with the bulb opening pointing up and just above the water surface. Watch inside for any leakage. Replace if necessary.


Q: I just purchased a 2008 Road King with the Brembo ABS brake system. I want to change the handlebars, due to my 6' 2" height. I would like the handlebars to be a little taller and pulled back more. When I asked my dealer about doing the change for me, the shop wanted nothing to do with it. Apparently, per their highly trained head tech, changing the handlebars means changing the hydraulic fluid line from the master cylinder to the ABS unit under the right-side cover. Okay no problem; order a new line pre-fabricated with the correct fittings in the correct length, bleed well and off we go, right? Well according to the dealer, this cannot be done, as it would adversely affect the functioning of ABS system. From what I know, based on automotive and aviation experience, the length of the line should not be an issue. As I understand the theory, as long as the proper pressure is transferred from the master cylinder to the ABS module, there should be no adverse functioning by the ABS module. I could see if the rotors or calipers were involved, as they have the sensors, but just lengthening the line from the master cylinder to the ABS module should be fine. Or should it?
Bob Heylman
Via Internet

A: You’re right, Bob, lengthening that line should not adversely affect the ABS, as long as the system is fully bled when you’re done. Your dealer’s diagnostic computer has software that will cycle the valves in the ABS module to bleed all the air out of it. It will also know’ when it’s right and tell you to redo it if needed. (You might want to try another dealer as this expert seems a little shaky on ABS.) The only trouble is getting a brake line made to fit your spec. Another thing to remember on the ’08 handlebars is the electronic throttle control. The end of the bar is notched and the inside diameter is a little bigger than what comes on most aftermarket and pre ’08 handlebars. Drag Specialties has some nice bars now, and I’m sure the Motor Company will have some soon.