Got a problem with your stock H-D that your local dealer can’t fix? Well, put away that hammer, grab a pen, and let our resident pro get you back on the road! That’s right, frustrated ones. You can now get your perplexing problem answered with a simple snail mail or e-mail to AIM.
Time flies when yer having fun, and another edition of Hog Helpline is upon us. Dan Curtis starts us off explaining the precarious drop in the fuel efficiency of his 2001 Ultra. Hey, Dan, it makes sense to check those sensors. Next up is B. Tullberg whose 1995 Ultra is exhibiting a starting problem that is starting to become a problem. Shifting gears, Mark Knox in Portage, Indiana, tells about the shifty shifter on his 2008 Super Glide. No worries, Mark, give a read and you’ll be fine. And, finally, Terry Braaten is experiencing everything but good vibrations aboard his 2006 Street Bob, which might simply be a motor mount issue that needs to be addressed.
Anyone wishing to submit a question to our H-D expert should send in as much info about the problem and bike as possible, which definitely includes the bike’s year, model, and mileage, to:
Hog Helpline, c/o American Iron Magazine
1010 Summer Street, Third Floor
Stamford, CT 06905
or e-mail it to
ChrisM@AmericanIronMag.com. Ready for the disclaimer? Unfortunately, we can’t answer all of the questions that we receive or respond directly to the submitter, owing to volume. Select questions will be answered only through this monthly column.
Q:Over the past year, my 2001 Ultra has gone from 48 mpg (highway) to 35 mpg. Years ago I had the Stage I kit installed, and last summer had the chain-drive cam replaced with a gear-driven unit. The pushrods were cut and replaced with adjustables, so nothing inside the engine was touched. I took it to the dealership where the techs found no codes, and put the bike on the dyno. It checked out fine. They first said my tires were a little low, then said the scoot was getting older (I have 75,000 miles on it). I’m getting old, too, but I didn’t fall apart overnight. They suggested running a leak-down test, but even if I have worn rings, valve guides, or any other part of the valvetrain, I can’t see that it would cause this type of drop in mileage. The bike runs strong and pulls well, except that it will start to miss pretty badly when it’s 30 degrees Fahrenheit or below and I’m going up a long hill at about 60 mph. I can either slowly retard the throttle or slowly accelerate through it and recover. This one’s a head-scratcher for me. Thanks for any help you can offer.
Don Curtis
Via Internet
A:I think I would start by looking at all the data going to the ECM from the engine sensors. With 75,000 miles, it’s possible one of the sensors is failing. The engine temperature or intake air temperature sensor may be sending inaccurate information, causing the ECM to send the wrong signals to the injectors, making the engine run rich and waste fuel. If the sensor signals are still within their operating range, the ECM won’t trigger fault codes. Also, check the MAP sensor. You’ll need to read the ECM data and compare it to typical values in your service manual. There is also a chart of voltage and resistance values for the engine temperature sensor at various engine temperatures. Your dealership can see the live data with its computer. If you want to see for yourself, I would suggest the Daytona Twin Tec Twin Scan II tool.
Q:In the December 2008 issue, Scott Lacoss asked a question about a 2000 Road King that wouldn’t start. I have the same problem as he has described. My bike is a 1995 Ultra, but with a few other symptoms. First, the Ultra has a good battery, and I’ve checked out (as has as the dealer) the connections, and they’re all good. Another symptom is that once the bike is initially started, it will start normally from that point on all day. The problem only recurs once the bike has sat for several hours or overnight. Additionally, the click is at the starter/solenoid, so this would indicate that the starter switch is working. It’s like I have a dead or near dead battery, but that’s not the case. It would seem that there’s a more common problem here, and surely someone has come up with a fix. Any additional ideas?
B. Tullberg
Via Internet
A:The starter system on your Harley uses four switches: the ignition, the handlebar starter button, the starter relay, and the starter solenoid. The current for this circuit also has to flow through a few connectors and the main circuit breaker along the way. Finally, there is the connection through the brushes to the armature in the starter. If any of these points are loose, dirty, or worn, there may not be enough current flow through them to activate the starter. Just because the solenoid clicks doesn’t mean the starter button is still good. The button could be letting enough current through to allow the solenoid to pull in and click but not make full contact to turn the starter. The best test for any problematic circuit is the voltage drop test. Basically, you’re testing the circuit under load at each connection and switch in the circuit. A good circuit will drop less than one volt, so if you see 3 or 4 volts across that starter button, it’s no good even though the solenoid is clicking! There is an in-depth explanation of voltage drop testing in the Harley Service Manual in the starter diagnostic section. There are also good diagrams of the complete starter system showing current flow and values through the circuits.
Q:I have a stock 2008 Super Glide (96" six-speed). The problem I have is if the bike has sat for more than a day or two, it shifts hard into first gear, like the clutch is dragging. After that, I can hit first with a nice smooth click. I talked to the service manager at H-D who said the company sent out a memo saying that such an occurrence was normal. I’ve talked to other people with the Cruise Glide transmission, and they have the same problem. I also spoke to one of the mechanics at H-D, and he thinks the new primary/transmission fluid that Harley uses is too heavy for the primary/clutch. And he thinks it’s too light for the tranny. Could this be the answer?
Mark Knox
Portage, IN
A:The first thing I would do is check the clutch adjustment. It could be the clutch is dragging slightly, and after sitting a few days, the plates are sticking together a little until you bang it into gear. A 1/8" of free play is all you should have at the clutch lever. I don’t think the oil should be giving you any problems, but I’ve used Bel-Ray 85-140 to quiet down a couple of noisy six-speeds. I think the memo your tech is referring to pertained to the earlier six-speeds that would clunk or bang when starting.
Q:I have a 2006 Dyna Street Bob FXDBI with 5,300 miles on it. At about 2,500 miles, the bike developed an unwanted vibration. While under warranty (with 3,500 miles on it) the dealership changed the front motor mount. Then the unwanted vibe was gone. Now, at the 5,300 mile mark, and past warranty, the front motor mount seems to have broken again (rubber separation). At just over a $100 apiece, I don’t want to be changing the front motor mount every 2,500 miles. The bike is ridden daily in Wisconsin, to and from work, for a total of 14 miles round trip. I’m not riding the hell out of it, so why does the front mount break? Do I need to be checking something else out? According to the service manual, the mounts should be changed in pairs, but the dealer only changed the front. Any help would be appreciated.
Terry Braaten
Via Internet
A:If both engine mounts were broken when one was replaced, naturally the new one will fail prematurely. That said, why did they fail at that low mileage in the first place? It’s possible the engine is vibrating more than it should, and you don’t feel it with the new mounts. Have your dealer check the flywheel run-out. Too much run-out will cause excessive vibration and early failure of the mounts. Mention
Tech Tips #324 and #352, Flywheel Run-Out Inspection, to the technician. I believe Harley will show you some consideration if the flywheels are bad.
AIM 
June09-Miles, Starts, Shifts, and Mounts 
Linear Mode
