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Old 07-22-2009, 12:26 PM
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Default Techline-Sept.08-Part V: Cam specs and choices (conclusion)

Part V concludes in this thread

How do we get a 0.140"-0.150" adjustment? Most adjustable pushrods adjust in the range of 28-32 threads per inch, per full turn. JIMS Pro-Lite and Crane Time Savers use 24 threads per inch, while Rivera Taper Lite uses 40 threads per inch. Andrews, Crane, H-D, and S&S all have adjustable pushrods at 32 threads per inch. However, we do not take this stuff for granted. Always check the installation instructions to see how many threads per inch are on a particular pushrod set. Manufacturers change specifications or may introduce kits with different threads per inch.

As an example, if thread-per-inch specification is 30 threads per inch, then four and three-quarter turns will equal 0.1425" and five turns will equal 0.150". These are performance instructions for aggressive cams and hard-line riding. Compare this with an average instruction of two and a half to three turns from most manufacturers. Bob has one caveat with this approach, which is the standard, correct methodology anyway. The valve spring seat pressure must match the camshaft. Weak valve springs may not control valve movement to what is dictated by the rotating cam lobe causing valve float and possible valve-to-piston contact. I used my stock hydraulic lifters with these belt-gear drive cams and they worked fine for aggressive riding all year long. So, there you have it, three methodologies for lifter adjustment: using limiter kits, following manufacturer’s instructions, and an aggressive adjustment for hard-line cams and spoiling-for-a-fight riding. They all work well within their particular realm.

Installing the Knight Prowler
I’m briefly going to describe selective and salient aspects of the install, which will be unfamiliar to the reader because the silent belt system is very advanced relative to what else is available. Do not assume these are comprehensive directions. The H-D service manual and Wood Performance instructions are both necessary for full information.

The two mounting bosses that secure the black front chain guide (#39965-99), which is not to be confused with the timing chain adjuster, must be machined or ground down on 1999-2006 outer cam support plate, so the mounting bosses are even with the surface of the cam support plate. If using the spur-type kit, install the inner front and rear S&S gears on both front and rear camshafts. The gears can be assembled by pressing the camshafts into the drive gears with the drive keys in place. The timing marks on both front and rear gears must be aligned correctly. It is an easy procedure, and I only mention it because, if using the helical gears, the procedure is a little tricky the first time. The angled cut of helical gears prevents a straight press-on action as with straight-cut spur gears. Spur gears mate without movement whereas helical gears will turn each other as they interact. The mechanic needs to anticipate the amount of movement of the interacting helical gears in order to press them together so they end with the correct timing mark alignment.

Therefore, initially press the front cam in the support plate only about 1/4". Now, install the rear camshaft, anticipating movement of the other mating front helical gear. The goal, of course, is to ensure the timing marks line up when both cams are fully installed in the cam support plate. Wood Performance lists a procedure for checking if there is sufficient gear lash between the inboard cam spur gears. Lash of 0.000" is too tight and will cause a whining noise, while lash of 0.002" is too loose and will cause a clattering noise. The correct lash for these gears is 0.0005"-0.001". There are both undersize and oversize cam drive gears for the spur gears, available from Wood Performance or S&S Cycle.

On 2006 Dynas and 2007 and later Twin Cams there is a furnished 0.075"-thick thrust washer that goes on the rear cam after lubricating both its sides with a fine grease or 20W-50 engine oil. Consult the belt drive diagram. Attach the Knight Prowler belt drive baseplate cover with the 10 supplied (1/4-20 x 1") stainless steel bolts and new gasket. Torque these bolts to the H-D specification of 90-120 in-lbs. in the exact H-D tightening and sequence steps. Install the Knight Prowler belt drive crank gear pulley with its outer flange as a unit. Using a 12-point 3/8" socket, tighten the (5/16"-18 x 1-1/4") bolt to ensure the crank gear pulley is seated properly. Remove the crank gear pulley retaining bolt and belt flange. Install the supplied 3/16" key in the rear camshaft. Install the Knight Prowler belt drive cam gear pulley using the 3/8"-24 x 1-3/4" stainless steel bolt and the 1" heavy-duty washer with a 12-point 3/8" socket. Always use this bolt and washer on the initial install, as it will draw the cam gear pulley into the cam while keeping it in alignment. After starting several threads of this bolt, rotate the cam pulley drive gear to ensure even rotation.

Wood Performance has special tools for removing and installing the cam gear and crank gear assemblies. Use a small steel straightedge placed on the outward face of the crank gear pulley and check alignment with the outward face of the cam gear pulley. A variance within plus or minus 0.010" is within specifications. Shims are supplied, if needed, in 0.005", 0.010", and 0.020" thicknesses. If the cam gear pulley does not protrude enough, place the appropriate shim behind it. Then reinstall the pulley and recheck for correct alignment. Year 2006 Dynas and all 2007 to present Twin Cams have special thrust washers in gradients between 0.110" and 0.150" thick. If correct alignment is not possible with the thrust washer supplied by H-D, the correct one must be purchased to obtain the correct variance within plus or minus 0.010". If further alignment is needed, there are specific instructions in the Wood Performance installation sheets.

With both gear pulleys installed but not torqued down, align the cam and crank timing marks. This will place the rear cylinder on its compression stroke. Place the timing belt on the lower portion of the crank gear pulley’s lower teeth or nubs. Hold the belt fairly taut and engage the belt on the right side of the cam gear pulley. While holding the engaged belt teeth, walk the belt teeth around in a counterclockwise rotation. This stuff requires a little finesse, but it will come to you with patience. Then check the timing mark alignment once more. Ensure the belt is flush with the end of the cam and crank gear pulleys. Recheck the timing marks again.
Next, put the supplied O-rings into the removable flange grooves; one goes on each side. Place the flange into the front of the crank gear pulley. Use a small dab of 242 blue Loctite on the 12-point, 5/16"-18 x 1-1/4" bolt and torque it to 25 ft-lbs. Now install the 12-point, 3/8"-24 x 1-3/4" cam retaining bolt with the hardened washer. Be sure to use a small dab of 242 blue Loctite and torque the bolt to 35 ft-lbs. Always start with the crank gear pulley advance/retard marks set at stock or the zero point. Now torque the four 12-point, 5/16"-24 retention nuts to 120 in-lbs. (Note: thinking mechanics instinctively switch their mindset from ft-lbs. to in-lbs. torque, subconsciously viewing bolt or nut size, thread, and metallurgy. Novices have to pay attention because torquing to ft-lbs. specifications when it should be in in-lbs. will break or strip nuts, bolts, and mating pieces.) Once this is done, you can install the pushrods.

Install the ultra-cool belt guard and cover, but do not torque it yet. Install the front exhaust pipe. Then loosely and gently rotate the pipe down until it interferes with the belt guard cover. Mark the pipe, remove it, heat it, compress the pipe gently and smoothly using a rounded mandrel in the interference area until you have an 1/8" of clearance between pipe and belt guard. Attach the complete belt cover, use anti-seize on the threads of the four supplied 12-point 5/16"-24 stainless steel screws and torque them to 30 in-lbs. Install the spark plugs.

Conclusion
Once you’re done with the installation, follow Bob’s last instruction: “Kick the tires and light the fires. You’re ready to go. Have some fun!” I can attest to the fun, as I have been blasting around all summer on my Wood Knight Prowler advanced silent belt drive system.

Donny Petersen
Tattoo Tony’s Heavy Duty Cycles
Toronto, Canada
www.HeavyDutyCycles.com
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:23 PM
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Default Re: Techline-Sept.08-Part V: Cam specs and choices (conclusion)

You know i bought one of these and it cam out alright.
im using vance and hines with a pciii. the only thing im working with is the decel poping which is not bad, im getting closer. i noticed the bike ran hotter with these cams but i put on a jagg and that more than took care of it.
its not perfect but its getting closer , and not too far off .its like zen stuff. the only thing i noticed is now the bike is cold blooded with the oil cooler. im considering getting a thermostate, the dealer i used said i really didnt need it because the bikes run hot. after reflextion i wonder perhaps if he means or has the 07 and up in mind by virtue they are the latest , were im 05.
i let the bike idle warm and ran about 5 miles and my temps by laser are about 167-170 degees farenheit. this is with dino oil. i have some belray on order for the engine.
If i have to ill take it to a dyno shop but i want to make sure i cant figure it out first.
what do you think concerning the oil cooler . when i think cooler i can help but relate it to a radiator , but perhaps its not the same , any thoughts ?
I took the bike out a few times already and as always run it to church call, i like the interstate and it runs out pretty darn good, its almost like a new motorcycle. she runs up and holds 80 easily , also there is no bump zone between 73 and 78 anymore.
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Last edited by harold; 11-15-2009 at 07:27 PM.
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