Trask 2-into-1 exhaust system for Indian Scout
By Stephen Long • Photos Matt Kopec
Lloyd’z Motor Workz is about 80 miles from our Stamford, Connecticut, office, situated in the quiet hamlet of Pine Bush, New York. Art director Matt Kopec and I crossed the Hudson River, then several smaller ones as we widened the gap between us and sprawling urban development, drudging deeper into farmland and even encountering some snow. We descended upon sleepy Pine Bush to see what kind of boisterous heck we could raise with a fresh Trask 2-into-1 exhaust system on an Indian Scout Bobber. Of course, Pine Bush is safe most days from the sweet thunder bellowing within the soundproofed confines of the Lloyd’z shop. (Though we’re told that’s hardly enough to keep the tests from invading the ear space of customers calling the shop!)
We worked with shop employee Mike, who’s also a bit of a photographer and quite the computer wiz. His wrench skills are just as dependable. Removing the stock system and installing the Trask pipes was fairly straightforward, with some jiggering here and finessing there. Removing the stock exhaust required Mike to leave one nut tight on the front header clamp and loosening the rear two, then rotating the pipe outwards and towards him. The stock head pipes are welded together via bracket, and clearance around the engine and frame is tight, so he worked carefully in order to prevent damaging either the frame or the engine. Clearance with the Trask front head pipe is also tight, so Mike mocked up the fit before tightening any nuts.
All in all, the new Trask 2-into-1 really tidies up the right side of the Scout Bobber. And it’s loud. Way louder than stock. Plus, the dyno returned a decent uptick in power: 95.7 ponies, up from 88.26, and 73 ft-lbs. of torque, from 68.6. And since we rolled the Bobber out from the dyno room and onto the streets of Pine Bush, we did end up raising a bit of heck after all. But, hey, if you’re looking for an afternoon siesta, maybe living near a guy who builds superchargers for a living isn’t for you.
• 15/16″ socket
• 8mm socket
• 8mm Allen key
• 13mm socket
• 13mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• 15mm socket
1 – Remove the stock slip-on mufflers. Loosen the clamps that secure the mufflers to the head pipes using a 15mm socket.
2 – Loosen the bolt that secures the mufflers to the mounting bracket with a 13mm wrench.
3 – Remove the mufflers. If you’ve ever done this before, you already know: Get ready to shake. The mufflers are held together by a bolt; loosen this with a 13mm wrench in order to individually remove each can.
4 – Use a 15mm socket to loosen the main pipe clamp beneath the bottom header pipe that connects the front and rear stock headers.
5 – Use a 13mm wrench to free both header pipes from the stock exhaust bracket.
6 – This is where things get tight. Using a 13mm wrench, remove both nuts from the rear header flange.
7 – Mike rotates the rear header pipe outward. This takes some careful maneuvering because you don’t want to mar either the engine or the frame. Once you get the rear header rotated, remove the front header flange and the stock exhaust should easily seperate from the engine.
8 – Use 14mm wrench to remove the O2 sensors.
9 – Remove the stock exhaust mounting bracket, as it isn’t necessary for the Trask pipe. The front nut requires a 15/16″ wrench to loosen—save this nut for reuse. The two Allen bolts are 8mm. These will not be reused.
10 – Posistion and loosly secure the Trask front header pipe reusing the stock 13mm nuts; fingertighten for now, as some free play will be required. New pipe flanges are provided for both the front and rear headers.
11 – Position the rear Trask header and 2-into-1 exhaust can; this section of the exhaust is one solid unit. Loosly fit this section to the front header and fingertighten to the rear cylinder reusing the stock 13mm nuts.
12 – Tightly secure the new mounting bracket with the stock 15/16″ nut and washer to the swing arm bolt. Secure to the bracket using supplied 14mm nut, bolt, and washer.
13 – Tighten all four stock 13mm nuts at the front and rear of the engine.
14 – Tighten the main pipe clamp connecting the front header to the rear section of the exhaust with a 10mm socket.
15 – Install the heat shields. First, slide the supplied clamps through the eyelets of the heat shield.
16 – Wrap the clamps around the pipe and tighten with 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver. If any of the clamps stick out you can tuck this under the heat shield for a clean look.
17 – The brand-new Trask 2-into-1 pipe is lighter, slimmer, and louder—way louder. AIM